The microwave and outlets are on a 115-120vAC source running through the breakers box. The lights are 12vDC running through the converter then to the fuse panel. Locate the inverter in the compartments up front, possibly behind a panel that can slide or screws to hold the panel. Depending on the Mfr if the inverter, you should see a blade style buss fuse on the side, typically near the 12vDC output. Use a multimeter to check for the 120vAC input and 12vDC output. AC power-yes and DC power-no, check the fuse, replace if necessary. If the fuse is good, the inverter has blown and needs to be replaced. If you have AC & DC power on the inverter, go to the batteries and check for voltage without the inverter supplying power. Pull the fuse off the inverter or switch the battery disconnect switch. If the batteries have little to no voltage, cells may be dead. Take the batteries to a local auto parts store to get checked to see if the battery needs a charge or replacement.
SOURCE: Microwave malfunction
this could be a diode between the capacitor and magnetron, (its like a fuse) i do not recommend self repair, but give you this info as a guide to what maybe wrong, microwaves contain high voltage and care should be used if you do attempt repair hope i have helped a little
SOURCE: Sharp R1870
This
is a problem in one of the damper-related components, most likely the
switch, but it may also be the motor or the damper door.
The
damper is a door inside that opens or closes depending on cooking mode.
If the controller senses that the door is not in the right position, it
will shut down the cook cycle.
Sharp models stop after 59 seconds.
See the attached sample photo for a typical damper assembly.
We have the applicable service manuals for these models and have uploaded it to our site here and here to help you.
You will need the free Adobe Reader to view or print it.
The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.
If you only need a switch, you can order one from us for $5 postpaid.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com
SOURCE: Microwave Not Working
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
There
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
At
our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
Here are some links you or someone you know can use (in order given) for test help, but read the safety warnings first:
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/cap_test.html
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Microwave, Panasonic model #NN-S951WF will
If you have a display and the inside light comes on when you open the door, it won't be the fuse.
First, please press and hold the Start pad for about 4 seconds to see if the child lock comes on. (This is detailed in the owner's manual).
If it does, that means the pad on the keypad is okay, and you can press and hold Stop to turn it off.
If it does not, then you may have a bad keypad.
I would suggest a hard reset. Unplug the unit for a
minute or so. Then plug it back in, set the clock and try again.
You are correct to suspect the door switches, especially if the Start pad is okay.
This
is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch
mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.
Door switch
or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening
the
door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are
plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and
onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these
mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be
activated properly.
Sometimes it's
a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just
out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the
bottom edge of the switch.
One test that sometimes
helps is to
gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to
start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount
or
door alignment issue.
If you or someone you
know decide to look
into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door
switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on
FixYa:.
Or see:
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/safety.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/disassembly.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt
If you only need a
switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
SOURCE: must lift door of microwave to operate microwave.
This
is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch
mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.
Even though a door
switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch
or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening
the
door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are
plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and
onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these
mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be
activated properly.
Sometimes it's
a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just
out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the
bottom edge of the switch.
If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and
safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the
switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
One test that sometimes
helps is to
gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to
start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount
or
door alignment issue.
You can find helpful
exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model
number here.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control
panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very
helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
At
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you only need a
switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
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