I have an Atwood model mpd93756 6 gal water heater in my RV. The propane lights for about 3 sec then stops any help please

depending on which heating element if water heater suburban open front cover and lower left behind black plastic cover if atwood its on back of heater

Hi Kay, I presume you're referring to the water heater by-pass valves as there are no other valves beside those on the propane bottles. The water heater by-pass values are usually immediately around the water heater itself, on the inside of the RV. I believe the water heater on your RV is on the back wall, so you would look on the inside near the back likely in the area above the outside kitchen box (some times you need to remove panels).

Most likely it’s a propane heater. first make sure your propane tanks are turned on and then turn your heating on just like you would at home via the thermostat

no info generic answer if no paperwork notify an rv dealer--rv shop or online search using make and model of unit

Make sure all bypass valves are open and blender valve between hot and cold water feed is closed when demand is there for hot water

Contact your local retailer directly or online here:

Contact RV

Contact your local retailer directly or online here:

Dutchmen RV Contact Us

Yes water can do compensation build up in your propane tank. Some tanks have a drain pit on bottom reclaim propane and open the pit. If your does reclaim the propane and drain tank. If not reclaim propane and remove tank then remove filler valve turn tank over drain access water leave tank up side down over night. Put fill valve back on and mount tank. After lines are back on turn stove on leave on for 48 hours. Turn valves off and refill tank. Best of luck.

Pull bottom plug out of hot water heater tank let all water drain. Then open all water tank drain valves and be sure your RV is tilted so it will drain towards the valve. Go in RV access water heater valves put it in bypass so no antifreeze can enter water heater tank. Pump RV antifreeze with hose provided into all water lines throughout RV by turning on your main water pump after you have stuck the bypass hose in a new and full antifreeze bottle, then flush toilet until red antifreeze comes out. Open all faucets one at a time until red antifreeze comes out. I use 3 gal but some only use one, the more the better it’s cheap at Walmart. Don’t forget to run outside shower until red antifreeze comes out also, very important or it will crack in the cold. Finally make sure black and grey tanks are empty and flushed at your last camp trip before winterizing. Pour antifreeze in toilet and all drains making sure first that black and grey tank shut off valves are pushed in and closed. Get a quality cover and store RV, it makes a huge difference on protecting roof and roofs lap sealant! All RV antifreeze is non toxic and you just drain it all at your first camp stop after winter! Note: don’t forget to put water heater ionizer drain plug back in wrapped with new white Teflon tape and take water heater valves out of bypass! Draw a diagram of regular mode and winter bypass mode so you don’t forget especially hot and cold water heater blender valve between the two MUST be shut off after you unwinterize
or you will cool your hot water unwanted and have no hot water to use! Happy Camping folks!

Remove the old element. Take note of the water heater make and model, i.e. Suburban SW6DE or Atwood GC6AA. You can find the replacement at your local RV parts department. I have even seen them at Lowe's. Or you can buy one online.