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Jorge D Posted on May 20, 2017

1989 damon escaper ultrasport, at full hookup site A/C working fine until it just shut off. At that moment I was programming fridge because it wasn't cooling. Might be irrevelant but fridge now working. I unplugged electricity from RV, turned off/on breakers - nothing. Inside RV I noticed A/C power cable in cabinets says "do not exceed circuit rating 16 amps" Im plugged in a 30amp site. Is there a fuse box for AC? Did I burn circuit? I'm a novice when it comes with RVs. Please help, thx

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SoxFan33

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  • Posted on Jun 01, 2017
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Your AC (air conditioner) would only run on AC (alternating current - shore power) so there would be a circuit breaker. Fuses are for DC (direct current - batteries).

That said, 16A is a very odd number for a circuit breaker (or fuse).

Your AC will only run if you are connected to shore power or have a generator. (Very large inverter and a lot of house batteries is technically possible but very unlikely and it wouldn't have been built that way).

If your AC actually draws 16A then being connected to a 30A outlet is fine, I have actually connected mine to a 20A outlet at home to test it but I made sure nothing else was turned on fridge, heaters, water heater etc).

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motor1258

Mike Butler

  • 6674 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 25, 2010

SOURCE: AC runs for 5 minutes and then circuit breaker

What else do you have running on hydro while AC is running? Such as coffee maker, microwave, water heater, fridge. That 30 amp breaker is your main breaker I assume, or breaker on pole your plugged in to. Keep in mind your AC will normally draw approx. 15-17+ amps momentarily when compressor kicks in to cool, then drop back to 12-15 amps when running normal. If your AC is drawing too much current, then you would only normally trip 20 amp breaker for AC in your panel. Try switching other appliances to gas operation while running AC, such as water heater, and fridge. Make sure incoming voltage is up to specs as well . (115-120 volts)
If water heater takes 5-8 amps, and fridge takes same when they are calling for power, you'll be close or over the 20amp mark when you consider your on board converter etc. as well. That only leaves approx 10 amps for AC that requires approx 15 amps to run, and up to 20amps when compressor kicks in. If you switch all those other items over to propane, and it still happens, then a current draw test should be done on AC unit to see if perhaps a capacitor is faulty, or possible compressor faulty.

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Anonymous

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  • Posted on Sep 06, 2010

SOURCE: ac was not cooling very well,breaker was hot

Turn the breaker on and remove the cover from the A/C and check for proper voltage coming into the unit. If you don't have it the circuit breaker may be bad. If you do have it, set the thermstat to make the A/C try to come on and check the contactor to see if it is pulled in. If it is pulled in, check for voltage on the load side of the contactor. Also check the condition of the contacts, make sure they aren't really burnt or pitted. If it isn't pulled in, check the output of the low voltage transformer. It should be 24vac. If you don't have it verify you have power on the primary side of the transformer. If you have power on the primary and none on the secondary the transformer is bad. If you have 24vac, go to the thermostat and install a jumper between R and Y. If the contactor pulls in with the jumper installed then the thermostat is bad. If the contactor doesn't pull in with the jumper installed, check for 24vac on the contactor coil. Notice you will have line voltage on L1/L2 and low voltage on the coil so use caution. If you have 24vac and a jumper installed and the contactor still isn't pulled in then the contactor is probably bad. You can also check for low or high pressure switches. If the contactor and thermostat is good then check your capacitor. Let me know what you find and I can give you some more suggestions.

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