Keystone COUGAR 324RLB - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

A Keystone Tech shows how https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzwJ5uzSWhg Other videos by owners

If it runs then there several things that could be wrong with it. one there might be something blocking the air flow which won't let it ignite usually mud dabbers like to build nest in furnace vents and intakes look in the vent with a light and see if this is the cause.

You do have a good battery hooked up too, I assume?

In most cases there will be two terminal circuit breakers, not fuses, located behind the front cross frame support or on the inside of the frame. The slide motor will be located between the two main frame beams toward the opposite side of the slide. Find the slide mechanism that usually has the gear track on the bottom of it. Follow that from the slide to the center of the under belly of the coach. You should find the motor there.

If it is working on LP but not on AC then I would start by checking the power at the outlet behind the refrigerator. If you have power there then using a multi meter check the power into the circuit board and also power out of the board to the heating elements. If you do not have power coming out of the board then the board is bad and needs to be replaced. Next, check the heating elements which are located in the heat riser tube to the right of the refrigerator (looking at it from the back side). Disconnect the heating element from the circuit board and using a digital multi meter check the ohms. You should get a reading of approximately 44ohms +/- 10%. If you are out of range then you have a bad heating element. Be careful when removing the heating element as they have a bad tendency of welding themselves to the cooling unit and if your force it loose you could damage the cooling unit. If the element is not moving at all then there is a secondary tube next to the heating element that you can install another element into.

Have you verified that you do have electricity at the outlet behind the refrigerator? If not correct the power failure issue. If you do, you will need a multi meter to check power input on the board and power output to the heating element on the board. If you have power to the heating element then you need to perform an ohms check on the heating element to ensure that it is operating in range. If the element is out of range, replace the element. If you do not have power out of the board then the board is bad and will need to be replaced.

Check your local RV dealer they should be able to solve your problem.

I'm guessing since you posted in May you got them in by now yes?,

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Keystone Computers to one of the Springdale models. There were two models that year. See the link for resources and link to the maker. https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+Keystone+Springdale+manual ..

This question is too old to qualify for an answer: Evidently, there is no QUALIFIED answer or solution to your problem:

Contact your local retailer directly or online here:

Contact your local retailer directly or online here: http://www.keystonerv.com/contact-us

ok, been a while so lets ee if I can get this all down. 1 - Drain water from your holding tank and remove drain plug in hot water heater. Drain holding tanks ( Waste ) 2- turn on bypass for hot water heater ( instruction if needed ) 3 - Get yourself some winterizing fluid ( can't remember exact name ) from your local Dealer . 2 or 3 gallons should be good 4- Poor this fluid into your water rez tank. All of it 5 - now go around to EVERY tap in your trailer ( one at a time ) and turn on cold water until water runs pink ( or what ever colour fluid you bought ) Close faucet them do the same for hot water tap. Repeat this at every faucet. Even the ones outside if you have any. 6 Don't forget to flush toilet in water runs pink. 7. Ensure all gas vales have been turned off ( tank vales included ) If you did everything right you should be good to go. Plz double this list to make sure I covered everything

This is not just for your camper, but general troubleshooting. Drain the water from the belly pan. Hook up water supply to shore water source. With water source turned on, allow some time, 1-4 hours, and check if water has returned to belly pan. If water is present then the problem is with the fresh water system. If no water, either it is a small/slow leak or the problem is not with the fresh water system. Next test the grey water tank by pouring some red food color into the shower or sink drain. Flush it into tank with water. Again, wait for some time, maybe over night, and then check for red water in the belly pan. It may take longer for the leak to appear as the grey water tank does not have pressure. If no water, check the black water tank with green food coloring and same technique. If there is colored water, red or green, in the belly pan, then the leak is with associated with the grey or black water tanks. If no water is present after these tests, then the leak may be very small and it may take days or weeks to have water re-appear. In any event, clear water is fresh water system, red water is grey water system, and green water is black water system. With any of them, checking the tanks themselves and all pipes and connectors to/from should find the leak source. The last possibility is that water is entering the belly pan from a roof or vent leak. Check to see if water returns to belly pan after a good rain. If so, the water may be clear or slightly dirty. If it is a roof leak, I have found the best repair is to use Peel and Seal roll roofing It is light weight laminated aluminum and self sticking. Cutting and applying narrow strips 4-6" wide, will seal any caulked area. It costs $95 (3' x 33') at Lowes. A 30" motor home can be completely covered with three (3) rolls, in half a day. I have re-topped 5 motor homes (one 7 years ago) and no more leaks on any of them. The product was developed to seal the roofing joints of mobile homes. Topping should last 15+ years.

it might be you switch is bad

Contact your local retailer directly or online here:

Contact your local retailer directly or online here:

Try these places http://www.rvpartsnation.com/rv-heating-cooling/rv-air-conditioner/dometic-air-conditioner/dometic-air-conditioner-parts/dometic-quick-cool-ducted-return-air-grill/?gclid=CLn8rMiR0M8CFYgvgQodw_kKOg http://www.adventurerv.net/dometic-air-conditioner-return-air-grille-center-duct-p-28803.html?gclid=CKSnz_yR0M8CFY4vgQodnAgNrQ&utm_campaign=partsfeed_ppc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=Froogle

None I am aware of. But here is common sense, drain all the fluids, all of them.