Yamaha Stratoliner - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Did you ever find a solution? My Strat has come down with the same issue.

Cut a quarter inch wide piece of an old credit card, carefully form it it a circle and fit it into the cover so that it pushes the brushes backwards, then offer the armature into the aperture so that the edge of the commutator sits inside the circle of plasic card, once in this position and with a pair of very long nose pincers or tweezers carefully remove the piece of card allowing the edge of the armature commutator (the segmented copper part) to hold the brushes in the same position and carefully wobble in the armature all the way home......Simples!!

190/60 are standard but people do fit 200's on them with no problem

buy a service manual

This might help you: http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7668

take 2 shop! lol. there r sum things u just cant do,with out the tools, and the no-how!lol.

Download the 2007 Stratoliner Owners Manual from Yamaha here:http://www.starmotorcycles.com/assets/service/manuals/2007/LIT-11626-20-41_stratoliner_all_1554.pdf

This is a common problem with your sled, Yamaha knows but hasn't fixed the problem yet on newer models either, You may be doing a rebuild on the trans section soon, oil additives will not help.

no just oil fiters

HI. On the strat the fill plug is just behind the rear exhaust pipe about one inch or so to the rear. You need to loosen the front exhaust header nuts (don\'t remove 17 ft. lbs. ) remove the rear header nuts (these are allen style 14 ft. lbs.) pull the rear header out of the exhaust port. Use a torque wrench or they will leak. Now you have enough room to install the allen wrench into the fill plug. This plug is about 1 1/2 in diameter. It is a big pain to do. Don\'t loose the exhaust gaskets or just buy new. They are about $12 each. I have reused them just a couple times then install new.

Yamaha parts counter in person, or internet search; DO NOT use the suzooki badge

You didnt say if it is a cruiser or street so here is both:

1. Cruiser
   • 1 Remove the seat from your motorcycle. Turn the key to the "On" position and hold it there as you lift up on the seat to unlock it.
   • 2 Put on the gloves and the safety glasses. Remove the plastic cover on the battery compartment.
   • 3 Detach the cables connected to the terminals on the top of the battery. You can pull the cables off by hand. Remove the negative (black) cable first, then the positive (red) cable. Cover the negative battery terminal with black electrical tape.
   • 4 Lift the battery out of the compartment. Be sure not to touch the terminals to any metal components of the frame or the seat.
   • 5 Position the new battery. Connect the positive cable to the battery first, then the negative cable.
   • 6 Reattach the seat.
   Street Bike
   • 1 Lift or remove the seat on your bike. Use the ignition key to unlock the mechanism holding the seat in place. Depending on the model, tilt the seat back or lift it completely off the bike.
   • 2 Locate the two anchor bolts on either side of the gas tank. Unscrew the bolts using an Allen wrench. Hold on to both the bolts and the bushings on the underside of the bolts. The bushings prevent your gas tank from rattling during operation.
   • 3 Tilt your gas tank up to reveal the battery compartment. It is necessary to prop up the gas tank or have a helper hold it for you as you work on the battery.
   • 4 Detach the cables connected to the battery terminals. Remove the negative (black) cable first, then the positive (red) cable. Cover the negative battery terminal with black electrical tape.
   • 5 Lift the battery out of the bike, being careful not to touch the terminals to any part of the motorcycle or your skin.
   • 6 Position the new battery in the bike. Connect the positive cable to the battery first, then the negative cable.
   • 7 Reposition the gas tank and secure it by tightening the bolts.
   • 8 Close or reattach the seat

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_31c836b20f0c2290

have diagnostics codes done may be running to lean like mine was/ dont throttle it let bike start on its own, our bikes have built in diagnostics which will relay specific codes that are malfunctioning

To turn off the low fuel light, the wire leading to the low- fuel indication light can be cut and insulated, and if in future if you require the fuel indicator.You can reconnect that wires.Just dont forget the insulate the wire which you cut.Because if its not insulated, then it can short also working electrical parts, if came in contact with.---------- The wires run from Handel bar to the instrument cluster speedo .For exact wire, you need to take the top cluster off and see which exact color wire connects to low fuel indicator lamp, and just get that same wire cut in between.Cut the wire carefully/ properly, so that when you require the indicator lamp, you can reconnect the wires.------------ Its not very hard, but will take time to disassemble and reassemble parts, to confirm exact wire.It can be done at any local auto garage.But get it done in front of you.So you know, that exact and correct wire was cut.And that will also help you, for next time when you need to reconnect the wire.--------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Hi'' yes it is combined , what you mean transfer case is same as the crank case where engine oil is stocked , you can change engine oil in every 5,000 km. reading . you may use 4T engine oil.

always use high test in any bike for best running

• There are a total of three plugs. Two of them are under the engine and the other one is under the crank case. The fill hole is on the bottom left front of the motor between the frame rail coming out of the bottom left side. Remove the oil fill plug out out of the front left bottom side of the inside of the frame rail. It's a tight fit so you will need a open ended wrench.

• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

sitting on the bike it's on the left side front bottom of the motor between the frame rails coming out the side of the bottom towards the left. It comes out the left side front bottom inside the frame rail. An open end or closed end wrench needs to be used as theirs not enough room for a scocket and handle. won't fit. It's either 19 or 17 MM.

www.bikebandit.com

The valve clearance is automatically adjusted be the hydraulic valve lifter. However Yamaha say there are times when the valve clearance needs to be adjusted manually. Basically to balance a pair of valves if they become misaligned (pretty dam rare) as they are operated by the one lifter. (eg Inlet pair has one hydraulic lifter and the Exhaust pair has one hydraulic lifter)

The recommend service / checking interval is 20,000 kms. (12,000miles approx) according to the manual.

I have 15800 miles on my 2008 and after speaking with a Yamaha service technician, he hasn't had one in yet that has required adjusting when he has carried out the 20,000km service. Infact he has had to adjust one as of yet even at 40,000kms.

It is a bit of a pain to do, as a lot of stuff has to be removed and the covers are a little tricky to get off.

Me, I am not going to bother until 24,000miles, as long as you change the oil and filter every 5000 miles my Yamaha guy recon it will be OK.

If you are going to do it yourself, you will need a manual as only one value has an adjuster and the other is a slipper, so they are not as easy to adjust as a pair of standard valves.