Yamaha Road Star Midnight Silverado - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

The clicking may be the starter solenoid. Check for a dead battery or defective solenoid.

Pull the float bowl and float bowl gasket off the carburetor. Place the carburetor upside down and let the float rest against the float needle. Measure the distance between the gasket surface located on the bottom of the carburetor to the edge of the float. On a 24 mm Mikuni card, the distance between the gasket surface and the float should be 1 inch. On a 20 mm Mikuni carburetor it should be 7/8-inch. Bend the metal tab on the float that rests against the float needle. Bend it towards the float needle if the measurement is shallow and away from the needle if the measurement is too much. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers, making very small adjustments to the metal tab and then recheck the measurement.

Charge the battery and give it a try. I would suggest that you turn it over with the plugs removed for about 30 seconds before you refit the plugs and try and fire it up. This will circulate oil round the cold engine and reduce the chance of wear on start up, as the internals will be dry. Once started you may like to do a complete minor service (oil, filters and check the brake fluid levels.)

STAB IN THE DARK HERE , BUT I WOULD BE LOOKING TO SEE IF THERE IS WATER INGRESS TO THE LIGHT SWITCH, THIS WOULD CREATE A SHORT AND TAKE THE FUSE OUT. SIMILARLY CHECK THE HEADLIGHT IS NOT LETTING WATER IN ONTO THE BULB CONTACTS.

Do not run it in that condition because it is going to cost a lot more to fix if it goes completely. it sounds like a valve is dropped or a bearing spun or a rod is bent or a compression/oil ring may be broken-but ANY of those will be a lot cheaper if you do NOT start it again and either tear it down yourself if you know how, or get a certified mechanic to do so. Good luck!

The Road Star takes 4.3 qts which is 4.07 liters.

In my experience, MOST Yamaha engines have the oil capacity stamped either near the oil filler cap, or if it has one, near the fisheye inspection glass.

The best advice I have seen to date states the following: Having replaced and tightened the drain plug, remove the dipstick and puur in half the oil. Note that this bike has an oil tank, so having added 2 litres or so, put the dipstick back in and tighten it. Start the bike and allow it to run for around 15 seconds to allow the oil to pump from the oil tank to the engine crankcase. Shut the bike off and add the remaining oil before replacing the dipstick again and checking for leaks.

Hope this helps. Please rate this solution

run higher octane or octane booster in fuel

please replace float in the carb.

Check the positive battery wire and see if there is an inline fuse. Many manufacturers put an inline fuse (normally called a fusible link) in the system to protect against a dead short to ground of the battery. Reversing the battery would also cause the link to blow. Follow the battery line and using a test light or multimeter, check that you have voltage at the other end of the battery cable.

If you do, then something has burned out. I would suspect something like the generator or something like that.

Let me know what you find.

Any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Car oils use different additives. Do not use any oil that says Energy Conserving on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If you use Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift easier.

With the key on.......

1) Push the select button and reset button together for at least two seconds.
2) When the hour digits start flashing push the reset button to set the hours.
3) Push the select button and the minute digits will start flashing.
4) Push the reset button to set the minutes
5) Push the select button and release it to start the clock.

Hi
Put fresh fuel in tank and put a carb cleaner like seafoam.
take it for a nice long ride.

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How are you venting the caliper as force the piston back in....are you using the bleeder or trying to force the fluid back to master cylinder reservoir? Is there room in the reservoir for the fluid being pushed back? Safest way is using the bleeder.
Did you clean off the piston before trying to push it in?

Put fresh fuel in and a carb cleaner like seafoam.
Take it for a good long ride and enjoy.

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is the battery flat?.start with that!!..if not..are the battery termanials done up tight on the battery...then check that solenoind termenals are done up...hope this helps

Bearings break in and wear down over time. A good mechanic will adjust the steering stem bearings during the 600 mile check up. Make sure the bearings have grease. Snug up the nut so it is firm and reasonably tight (you do not want the bearings to bind) . If the steering is starting to bind back off till it turns smoothly. Hint : It is easier to feel firmness or binding if the wheel is off the ground when turning the bars.When there is a fine thread nut involved I do not think it is safe to use a torque wrench. Hand snugging can be enough to bind the system. Double check the feel after you put the wheel back down , you may have to tighten just a touch.

Your bike takes a little over 4qts of oil. The engine drain plug is located on the lower left front of the motor. The oil tank drain plug is located on the bottom of the oil tank, on the right side of the bike.
When refilling, put in about 2.5 quarts of oil in the tank and start the bike and run it for about minute and blip the throttle a few times. Then add the remainder of the oil. Run the bike to operating temperature (approximately 15 min) and allow it to idle for about 3 minutes. Then check the level after a minute or so and adjust as necessary.

The Yamaha Roadstar has a dry sump oil system. What this means is that the oil is stored in an oil tank to reduce the size of the engine. By storing the oil in the tank (which is under the seat and has the filler cap/dipstick, the engine does not need a sump under the crankshaft to store the oil. In this type of system the oil is pumped back to the tank after making its rounds through the engine. When you shut the bike off the oil will settle in the engine until you run the engine. The procedure to check the oil is to warm up the engine and allow it to idle for approximately 3 minutes. Do not rev up the motor during this time as it will cause the oil level to not read correctly. After shutting off the motor, check the oil level and adjust it to keep it in the proper level on the dipstick.

The warranty may be over in the time it has taken for you to ride nearly 14,000 miles. Aside from that, now would be a good time to let the dealer service the bike. Valve settings should be checked every 5000 to 10,000 miles. Generally, the valves will last the life of the bike. Re-seating the valves may need to be done around 25,000 miles or so, but only if the compression is down or symptoms such as backfires or popping back through a carb come about. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

well,,,its sat at the back of the shop for a week or so,,,and all the guys wont to have a "play" with it??? plus did they think when you turned up
"here comes a right looking mug lads lets rip him off!" hell its only a plug on bit! go on the net and look on the makers sight,,,to see were the bit is fitted or look on e-bay for the manule,,,that part even in "rip off britain" wont cost that much,,if the battery is working hard and the charging is trying to keep the battery toped up the rectifier is working hard,, so it gets hot! that will kill if off fast,,,when you fit the new one on get the heavy duty one and put some "heat sink greas" on the back to help keep it cooler there about £100+,,not cheap? and its poted so you cant just fix it,,i bet its only one diod shorted out too? thats £2.!!!!