I pulled the carbs off to rebuild ,took picks of everything and its all good but, the choke looks like it could be a problemas far as orintation. Do you have a good discription or picture of how to orientate it.
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If you haven't taken that carb apart and cleaned it in awhile - more than likely your jets (what's used to pick the gas up out of the bottom of the carb (the bowl) are clogged up. You can pick up a can of carburetor cleaner with a wire basket inside from any major parts store specifically for carburetors to soak in. The size of a paint can & around $20. Soak the carb in that for awhile after disassembling, make sure none of your ports are clogged - air compressor gun or you can also use keyboard cleaner - air dusters. You want to verify that air can pass through all those ports properly and blowing air through them is how you do it. Carb does need to be completely disassembled to do this. The jets in the carb suck up fuel due to the vacuum the engine creates turning over. Once it starts spinning - it builds up a little suction and everything is fine. When the jets start to clog - one of the ways to force the carb to pull harder is to work the choke. The only thing that choke is doing is operating the butterfly. When the choke is on - the butterfly closes. Making all of that suction stay right there in the carb. Once the bike starts to warm up - you release the choke - and the butterfly will open - allowing more air into the system. You're running at half choke - butterfly half closed - to force those jets to pull harder. If they were clear? No need to run at half choke. Hope that broke it down for you - All The Best, Justin M. 17 South Industries, LLC
Carb rebuilds are extremely sensitive to being set correctly. If when you accelerate you say it seems to choke out, slightly close the choke or place your hand a small portion over the carb to see if there is change for the better because it sounds like it is leaning out. The float level is so, so crucial for a successful rebuild. If by choking it make is take the fuel better, the float level is too low so check it again. If it make matters worse, there is a problem with the overall rebuild. You must make sure everything is clean and all airway and passages are unrestricted. A simple misplacement of a gasket can cause unbelievable issues. Use a suitable solvent to soak the parts in.
Make sure that the fuel is flowing freely from the tank. There is a screen before the petcock. If the fuel seems restricted, remove the petcock and clean or replace the screen.
It isn't hard at all, just remove the choke from the carbs then pull back on the end you took out of it and push back on the spring and twist the end so it comes off, if your new cable came with these its still pretty handy to keep around, especially the springs. But after that, loosen the screw that is underneath the choke adjuster and pull it out then loosen the end from the choke lever and just simply yank it out from the bike. Theres nothing really there that could get in the way besides the breather in the valve cover so you should be fine. After that simply do everything backwards that you took it off.
I assume it's probably a Zama carb maybe? A good starting point for carb fine-tuning is about 1 1/2 turns out from a lightly seated position on the H and L adjustment needles. You may have to go as far as 2 turns out to get it to start. If you open the 2 covers at either end of the carb, you will find out the actual condition of the carb and be able to decide if it needs a dighram kit or maybe a complete rebuild kit. Don't use carb/choke cleaner on these carbs and never soak it in a bath-type cleaner...it messes up the check valves..See how Zamas operate here: http://www.zamacarb.com/tipspage.html
I would take a close look at the valves, if you are sure the carb is entirely clean. (Accelerator pump and everything)
A closed up exhaust can harm an exhaust valve.
Start with a compression test.
Good spark?
Is the plug wet?
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