I need to know how to change the fuel filter. There's no room to get a wrench on the support straps w/o moving fender.

Removal and Installation of the Cummins 6.7L Fuel Filter/Water Separator Mopar P/N 0518341AA

Job Time: 15 minutes
Tools needed:
5/16 Nut driver or Ratchet and socket
1/2" Drive Ratchet with extension for filter removal
or
Strap wrench
pan or jar for Fuel Drain
Motor oil


Got out there today and changed the Fuel filter and here's how I did it.

From the drivers side of the truck remove the (8) 5/16" screws from the fender liner and there's also a clamp attached to the fender liner by the brake fittings that needs to be pushed out and then remove the liner exposing the filter.









Wipe off all the dirt and junk from the filter, disconnect the Water In Fuel
(WIF) connector from the bottom of the filter and then place a drain pan below the drain valve and then open the drain valve two revolutions to drain the fuel from the filter. ( I used a mason jar stolen from the Queen so I could look at the drained fuel)

Now you have two ways of removing the Fuel Filter. You can either use a 1/2" drive ratchet inserted in the the bottom of the filter (You can't turn the filter the wrong way because the opening for the ratchet will only allow you to remove the filter this way.) or you can use an oil filter or strap wrench as I did.





Make sure when you remove the old filter to remove the drain hose to use on the new filter and you'll also have to reach up into the fuel filterhead/Housing assembly and remove the old end seal but it can be thrown away.


Installation

Install the yellow o ring that comes with the Filter and make sure the above end seal is installed.

Lubricate the O-Ring with clean engine oil. (Do not pre fill the filter with fuel or you'll toast your fuel pump.)

Install the filter until you feel it contact the head and then turn 1/2 rotation more.

Install the WIF connector and drain hose.

Prime the engine.
1. Turn the key to the RUN position but don't try to start the engine for 20 seconds.
2. Crank the engine for 1 to 2 seconds. If the engine does
not start, then release the key or starter button back to the
RUN position (do not turn the key back to the OFF
position). The electric fuel transfer pump will continue to
run and purge air from the system for about 20 seconds.
After 20 seconds, attempt to start the engine again.
3. Repeat the procedure if the engine does not start.
4. Start the engine using the Normal Starting Procedure and check for leaks.

Reinsert the wire clamp into the fender liner and install the fender liner with the (8) 5/16 bolts removed earlier and Congrats you're done.

I took the filter apart and here's what my filter looked like after only 8800 miles. So when the Master Tech I bought lunch for so I could pick his brain told me that the best advice he could give any Cummins owner is to change the fuel filter at least every 10,000 miles he wasn't just blowing smoke and that was the best $10.00 I've spent in a long time.

You will need to remove the gas tank and replace the fuel level sensor inside the fuel tank.
The level sensor is part of the electric fuel pump "module" Here is how to change that part.

• 1. Start the van's engine. Open the fuel cap and remove the fuel pump relay from the engine's fuse box. Look for the engine to stall, signaling that the fuel pressure is gone.
  
• 2Disconnect the van's negative battery cable.
  
• 3. Unbolt the fuel tank's straps and lower the tank just enough to access the fuel pump flange. You can have a second person lower the tank, but it might be easier to use a floor jack with a wood block.
  
• 4Remove the small locking pin on the pump's electrical connector with needle-nose pliers, and disconnect the electrical connector. Press the retainer tabs on the fuel lines and disconnect them from the pump.
  
• 5Unscrew the pump's locking ring with a strap wrench or a similar hand-made tool that can grip the large ring and turn it.
  
• 6Pull the water pump out of the tank, then remove and discard the O-ring from the fuel tank.
  
• 7Pry back the locking tabs connecting the inlet filter to the pump reservoir using a thin screwdriver and remove the filter. This is only needed if this filter is in good condition and you must transfer it to the new pump.
  

Installation

• 8Lubricate the O-ring for the filter with engine oil and connect it to the outlet of the filter. Push the filter onto the pump reservoir's inlet and make sure the locking tabs engage.
  
• 9Install a new O-ring onto the seating hole on the fuel tank.
  
• 10Insert the pump module into the tank, tilting it at an angle and making sure you don't damage the filter or the pump float. Make sure the module is properly seated.
  
• 11Screw the retaining ring into position on the pump module.
  
• 12Reconnect the fuel lines to the pump using their quick-connect fittings and the electrical connector with its locking pin.
  
• 13Connect the tank back to the van using its straps and strap bolts.
  
• 14Reconnect the fuel pump relay and negative battery cable
  

The new filter is cheap and a vary good idea to replace 5 or 6 years it will save the intank pump from working way to hard to pump fuel to the intake manifold injection system . Alot of fuel pumps go bad because the inline filter is restrected . The filter is located under the drivers door on the inside of the frame rail close to the floor board look for the fuel line that comes from the tank pump and the line that goes up to the engine compartment area so it will have a metal line on bolth sides of it that has a connecter . What you need is open end wrenches or flare nut wrenches just make sure they are the correct sizes . You need to lossen these connections . The filter has a welded nut on it the line has a compresstion fitting that is part of the line and smaller then the welded nut on the filter but will not slide off the line because the line is flared so it will seal againest the filter . I would recomend getting the new filter first note the arrow on it this is the derrection the fuel must flow from the tank to the engine the arrow points to the engine and you can also know what size the welded nuts on the filter are also you can see what you are looking for under the vehicle . The fuel line nut is likely 5/8 s but may be metric 14 or 15 mm . The problem is you will not have a lot of room to work the filter is mounted to the frame with a strap type fastener and can be removed but if you can lossen the fittings with out removeing this first it will be easyer . Wonce the fittings are lose you will need to lossen or remove this strap to slide the new filter in place . And be ready for gas to leak out you will get 6 or so ounces of fuel that will spill on you and the ground . I hope i didn't make sound hard to do .The hardest part is breaking the lines free so make sure you have the right size wrenches and the limited room to get at the fittings GOOD LUCK

There are two. One is a 'sock' on the end of the fuel pump (in the tank) the other is a 'can' strapped to the frame. On my extended cab 97, it's just behind the driver's door inside the 'C' of the frame. You'll need line nut wrenches, and a ~5/8" socket... and put your cigarette out before you crack the lines loose from the filter. :-)

the fuel filter is located on top of the fuel tank and it must lowered enough to replace,you don`t have to drop the tank all the way but do the job with no more than a 1/4 tank of gas as it makes the fuel tank lighter when its being supported when doing the job.the gas straps will have to be disconnected from the car so they will give you enough room to drop the tank.

what year?

The fuel filter will be under the vehicle on the inside of the frame rail on the drivers side about under where the drivers seat is.

A tune-up is not bad. The plugs can be accessed through the inner fenders. with the front of the vehicle jacked up there will be plenty of room to work in the fender opening. The only plug that will give you any problems is number 5 which is the center plug on the drivers side. It is conveniently located right behind the steering shaft. They make a special socket just for this plug. You can use a regular spark plug socket, a wrench and a little creativity to remove it also.

Good luck! If you have any questions let me know and I'll be happy to help.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

the fuel filter is located in the carburetor.were the fuel line attaches to the carb this is were the filter is located.you need a 7/8"wrench and a 1" wrench.put the 7/8" on the fitting of the fuel line and the 1" on the fitting on the carb.undo the line and move out of way then using the 1"wrench remove the fitting on the carb and the filter will come out with it.there is a spring that will push the filter out a bit.leave the spring in and install the new filter with the end of the filter that has no hole(solid end) into the carb and the end with the hole(rubber pulse dampner) facing the fuel line.re-assemble in reverse order,start car check for fuel leak and your done.

I use a strap wrench for those hard to reach and no room filters

Passenger side in front of the wheel well. On the audi it is mounted veritical instead of horizontal on the front wheel drive. If you endeavor to replace it, know that you have to loosen a couple of bolts on the fuel tank and wedge a 2x4 between the fuel filter to get a metric wrench on the fuel strap.