The oil light comes on only when the outside temperatures are over 90 degrees and I have ridden the bike for over an hour long. Everything seems to run fine and the oil level is good in the sight glass. After the bike sits and cools down for a while the light go's off.

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try lower octaine fuel 1time in that heat,see how it rums ,it sounds lik its ketting hot from gas burning to hot

Have you checked your oil level? How long since you have had it changed and a new filter installed? if both these things are good you either have a bad Oil Pressure Sending unit or a bad Oil Pump. I would bet on the Sending Unit.

Could be a faulty switch ? do not go their on this with a mechanical switch thats spring controlled ,if a new switch doesnt cure it the try a new oil filter and a oil change if still no joy then add a tin of STP and sell it quick to a dealer

Sounds like vapor lock. Is your fuel line touching your cyclinder head or nearly touching?

I've restarted my RSTD in Southwest U.S. temperatures well above 100F after short stops and experienced the same symptoms; choking the engine fully prior to a restart and releasing the choke after the engine fires seems to eliminate the stall. I suspect that heat rising from the engine boils most of the fuel from the carburetor bowls, and full choke pulls enough fuel back in to keep the engine running.

The owner's manual recommends 20W-40 in that temperature range. DO NOT USE ANY OIL MARKED "ENERGY CONSERVING", it contains molybdenum disulfide (a friction modifier) and may make the clutch slip. Tourers that drive long distances and operate in a wide range of temperatures generally recommend synthetic lubricants - Mobil Delvac 1, Mobil-1 SUV and Shell Rotella T Synthetic are names that keep popping up. Personally, I've been using Rotella-T (T6) synthetic for 111,000 miles (and used Mobil-1 0W-40 for 9,000 miles prior to that), and the bike has required nothing but routine maintenance. I've used the bike in temperatures from 11F to 118F (ambient) without negative effect.

You can use thread tape on the bolt, or silicone it.
If it's on the jug itself, you can use JB underwater weld which is gas, oil proof and heat resistant and about $6 a tube.
Is the exhaust gasket leaking?

Good day,
Refrigerators are designed for indoor use only. The lowest temperature they will perform normally is 55 degrees.
As the temperature drops below that it degades to the point of not working at all.
P.S. If you move it inside, give it a 24 hour warm up period. The oil in the compressor will be too thick, and can even ruin itself trying.

sounds like it has a slow leak in it i would put dye in it and drive with it on for about 3 days and take a light see if u see dye comeing out anywhere

Entirely possible and in range. Depends on outside temps and type of driving. The radiator is colled by electric cooling fans, controlled by temp sensors. Fans should come on automatically when a/c is turned on