Clutch lever feels like its disconnected, - FJR 1300 Yamaha Motorcycles

Hey Anon,
First, make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly..This video is a basic tutorial.. use it for a guide BUT DO the steps as I TELL YOU..
1. Loose the cable adjuster at the handle bar.. run the adjuster in - (give it as much slack as you can)
2. The clutch actuator lever on the engine case should be able to move about 8mm (.325") before it starts to disengage (gets hard to move)..
3. Adjust the cable at the bottom adjustment to take up any slack at this point.. ..you MIGHT/should be able to feel some (NOT FULL TENSION) clutch disengagement in the handle bar (clutch) lever at this point.. IF YOU CAN'T - tighten the cable at the bottom adjustment ONE round at a time until you can feel (a small amount) tension and have at least/about 12mm (.48") max. of play in the lever (BETWEEN THE LEVER AND THE MOUNT when YOU START TO FEEL TENSION... - NOW - in the clutch lever (handle bar).. when you can feel tension in the lever... >> you should start adjusting the lever to have (at least) approximately 1/8" - (3mm) of play (gap) between the lever and mount.. when you have this set correctly, the clutch adjustment question is eliminated. If the adjustment has not helped and you had to do A LOT of adjusting. you need to replace the clutch cable.. and do this adjustment process again. NOW adjustment is NOT part of your problem. If this fixes your problem GREAT!!
.. If not.. now.. we have to move internally..The next issue will be grooves worn into the arms of the clutch basket be the fiber clutch plate ears..(see picture) (the ones that keep the plates stationary when you shift to help disengage the clutch). Also check the actuator arm (see picture below) for wear..


. How to Adjust Clutch



Ok.. if you have gotten this far and everything seems good, reinstall AFTER YOU HAVE METICULOUSLY CLEANED THE BASKET!! The clutch should be working now.
Congrats!! If you need professional port work contact me..
Suzuki RM80 250 89 95

When you say set your clutch, what do you need to know? Are we talking about the clutch lever, if so here is what you will need. One nickel, place the nickel between the lever and perch. Adj cable out so when you pull on the lever you feel tension right as the nickel falls out. This amount of play will insure the plates are closing the whole away. If you need help on the other end of the cable please feel free to contact me M. Woodring

You will need to slightly loosen the line where it goes into the master cylinder,...then squeeze the lever and hold it in...fluid should come out. While holding lever in,re-tighten bolt. You should get a lil bit of lever feel now. Making sure there is fluid in the resrvoir,...squeeze lever multiple times,and hold it in,....loosen the banjo bolt again,...slowly,..untill fluid rushes out. Then,..while holding lever in,retighten banjo bolt again. Check fluid,...then pump the lever multiple times again,and you should be getting some good lever feel now. After this,you may need to bleed the air out at the bleeder a couple times till alll the air is out.

Try tighten cable adjusters, check cable for damage, check the clutch release arm for damage, if thats ok its worn clutch plates replace the clutch plates and check components for damage,

Hello,

You probably have air in the clutch system and will need to bleed it. The following will help you bleed the clutch system and should clear up your problem.

1) Remove the dust cap from the bleed valve on the Clutch Slave Cylinder.
2) Connect a clear tube to the bleed valve on the Clutch Slave Cylinder - make sure you have a long enough length of tubing so that you can put a loop in the tubing higher than the bleed valve to prevent air from entering the system.
3) Place the other end of the tube into a clean container and fill the container with enough DOT 4 fluid to keep the end of the tube submerged.
4) Clean the top of the Clutch Master Cylinder and remove the screw holding the cover on. Remove the cover and the diaphragm.
5) Check the fluid level, and if low, fill the reservoir almost to the top line. Replace the diaphragm and cover and tighten the screws loosely.
6) Apply the Clutch Lever, slowly, several times and hold the lever in the applied position. Open the Bleed Valve and allow the Clutch Lever to compress completely. Tighten the Bleed Valve and release the Clutch Lever.

Repeat this step until all air bubbles are out of the system. NOTE: make sure to check the reservoir often to keep the fluid level full so air won't enter the system. When finished, make sure to keep the Clutch Lever pulled all the way in and tighten the bleed valve then replace the dust cap. If the lever still feels spongy, it will be necessary to repeat all the steps again until the Clutch Lever feels firm and gives the same feel each time it is applied.

Once you are finished bleeding the clutch system, make sure the fluid reservoir is full and tighten the screws on the cover. Do not apply too much force when tightening these screws as they have a tendency to strip.

If you find this information useful, please vote on this post. Thank You.

Regards,

Oz

Hello,

Please follow the instructions below to bleed your clutch:

1) Remove the dust cap from the bleed valve on the Clutch Slave Cylinder.
2) Connect a clear tube to the bleed valve on the Clutch Slave Cylinder - make sure you have a long enough length of tubing so that you can put a loop in the tubing higher than the bleed valve to prevent air from entering the system.
3) Place the other end of the tube into a clean container and fill the container with enough DOT 4 fluid to keep the end of the tube submerged.
4) Clean the top of the Clutch Master Cylinder and remove the screw holding the cover on. Remove the cover and the diaphragm.
5) Check the fluid level, and if low, fill the reservoir almost to the top line. Replace the diaphragm and cover and tighten the screws loosely.
6) Apply the Clutch Lever, slowly, several times and hold the lever in the applied position. Open the Bleed Valve and allow the Clutch Lever to compress completely. Tighten the Bleed Valve and release the Clutch Lever.

Repeat this step until all air bubbles are out of the system. NOTE: make sure to check the reservoir often to keep the fluid level full so air won't enter the system. When finished, make sure to keep the Clutch Lever pulled all the way in and tighten the bleed valve then replace the dust cap. If the lever still feels spongy, it will be necessary to repeat all the steps again until the Clutch Lever feels firm and gives the same feel each time it is applied.

Once you are finished bleeding the clutch system, make sure the fluid reservoir is full and tighten the screws on the cover. Do not apply too much force when tightening these screws as they have a tendency to strip.

If you find this information useful, please vote on this post. Thank you.

Regards,

Oz

Hello,

I did a search on Gold Wing problems and saw yours, unanswered for 2 months, and figured you have received your answer from somewhere else.

I will answer your question, just in case you haven't bled your clutch system yet. Just so you know, it is not necessary to bleed your clutch system unless your clutch feels spongy, you have had a leak somewhere in the system, you have had a component replaced, or you are changing the DOT 4 fluid.

1) Remove the dust cap from the bleed valve on the Clutch Slave Cylinder.
2) Connect a clear tube to the bleed valve on the Clutch Slave Cylinder - make sure you have a long enough length of tubing so that you can put a loop in the tubing higher than the bleed valve to prevent air from entering the system.
3) Place the other end of the tube into a clean container and fill the container with enough DOT 4 fluid to keep the end of the tube submerged.
4) Clean the top of the Clutch Master Cylinder and remove the screw holding the cover on. Remove the cover and the diaphragm.
5) Check the fluid level, and if low, fill the reservoir almost to the top line. Replace the diaphragm and cover and tighten the screws loosely.
6) Apply the Clutch Lever, slowly, several times and hold the lever in the applied position. Open the Bleed Valve and allow the Clutch Lever to compress completely. Tighten the Bleed Valve and release the Clutch Lever.

Repeat this step until all air bubbles are out of the system. NOTE: make sure to check the reservoir often to keep the fluid level full so air won't enter the system. When finished, make sure to keep the Clutch Lever pulled all the way in and tighten the bleed valve then replace the dust cap. If the lever still feels spongy, it will be necessary to repeat all the steps again until the Clutch Lever feels firm and gives the same feel each time it is applied.

Once you are finished bleeding the clutch system, make sure the fluid reservoir is full and tighten the screws on the cover. Do not apply too much force when tightening these screws as they have a tendency to strip.

If you are changing the fluid, open the bleed valve and keep apply the clutch until no fluid exits the bleed valve. You will need to follow the above steps to refill the clutch system with fluid.

Regards,

Oz

try to adjust your clutch lever by adjusting the cable

You simply remove any rubber covering on the lever to expose the lever assembly. Remove its holding bolts/nuts. Disconnect the clutch-wire from the lever.
Put in new lever followed by other items you removed.

Your clutch lever should have a cable connected to it. Trace it from the lever down to the engine and make sure nothing is disconnected or out of place. That big knurled knob next to the lever is the adjusment and locknut for cable tension. Loosen lock nut, srew cable away from lever until you have only 1/4 " of play between lever and the stop. You should feel tension coming back into the lever...If you have a bicycle ,it is the same drill for adjusting your brakes...look and see...it may help you understand the process...any bicycle mech can show you...maybe a neighbor...Good Luck to you friend....Tim