Tri z I havnt started my tri z since sept and I started and put in gear and in jumped and stalled. I started againg with clutch handle pullled in and started and it jumped and i didnt let it stall drove it around and shifted gears but was very weak in all gears so I stoped and it didnt move again just reved up. took clutches apart and they looked fine with slight grooves in basket. when I tighted clutch springs i cant pull in clutch handle way to hard and wont budge. I loosened springs till could move clutch cover back and forth and put cover back on with oil and started. I put in gear it grabbed a gear and released clutch handle and nothing just reved up in all gears. The clutches looked good but all stuck to each other and kinda gummy. So I cleaned off best I could and put back together but again if I tighted springs down to where they sould be the clutch plate would not budge when I pulled in clutch handle. so I loosened springs a little so it would give a little. I put cover back on put new oil in and started it. Put in gear and it engaged like it should when clutch is pulled in and I released clutch handle and it moved a little and then just reved up. If clutches are bad and springs, why did it jump when I first started it and stall out cuz tires spun, twice. Then when I drive it around yard it got worse and then just died within a minute. Like I said clutches still have plenty of fiber on both sides but they did stick to each other w metal dividing plate between them. The metal plate did have stains on them from the fiber cluthes like be sitting to long. should I sand them down or file away at basket to take out the slight grooves or is my fork bent and why cant I tighted springs down now and get plate to move?

Hi.

first thing. do not panic......
jumping and stalling after storage is almost normal. most of my bike will do the same, the oil and the pressure on the clutch does tend to stick the plates together slightly.
all i usually do is put the bike into a high gear (with the ignition OFF), pull the clutch in and rock the bike back and forth a few times. the engine may turn once or twice, but it will usually free off. there may still be a little bit of drag on the clutch for a few miles but this will usually clear up.
lack of power after storage is usally due to stale petrol. drain the pertol and replace with fresh.

if the bike was running ok when it was put into storage, then there is no real reason why it should not run fine now.

the problem you have now is quite simple, and i will admit that i have done exactly the same thing myself when changing clutches.

when you took the springs off the cover and removed the cover, you may have noticed that the outside of the "basket" it toothed, and the inside edge of the cluth cover has the same teeth.
when you put the cover back on, these teeth must line up and interlock for the cover to move freely. there is usually only 1 correct position for these teeth to line up, AND for the spring holes to line up as well. if there are 4 springs on the clutch, then the cover can appear to fit in 4 positions,but the teeth will not line up, and the cover will lock itself to the outer edge of the basket instead of sliding over it on the teeth.
if you look carefully, you can usually find an arrow, or a line on the cover, and a matching mark on the basket that will line up for the correct position.
if you cannot see a mark, then place the cover in each of the positions that the springs line up correctly, and on one of these positions the teeth will also mesh correctly and the cover will probably slide on another 5-6mm. this will be the correct position.

i have made this exact mistake a few times in the past and know how easy it is to do, and how frustrating it can be (and how worrying).

just reallign the cover, put fresh petrol in the tank, and after a few miles to blow out all the dust, you should be fine.

please feel free to ask for more advice if there are any more problems.

good luck
hope this helps

I had a Tri Z, and every time it sat the clutch stuck. I'm not exactly sure why your clutch won't disengage when you tighten the springs-I do know that the springs MUST be tightened to where the bolts bottom out for it to work. I do also suspect that running it with the springs loose has burned what was left of the clutch. The basket and inner hub grooved could be an issue. It would depend on how bad it's notched. They will normally operate fine with some notching. Filing down the basket is not recommended-you would have to take the exact same amount of material off each finger of the basket for it to work properly. I've done this only to get it running while waiting for a new basket and drive hub to arrive.
The main thing now is to get the clutch to disengage w/ the lever. Take the pressure plate off, and watch for the lifter to mave about 1/8" when you pull the lever. If it's not moving, or is too high, remove the lifter, the round ball behind it and the engaging rod out of the hollow clutch shaft. A small magnet tool works well.It may have gotten past the cam on the cable end of the system. With the rod out, turn the cable actuating lever back to the end of it's slack and reinstall the rod,ball and lifter. You should be able to turn the cable actuating rod with your fingers and watch the lifter come up. You can feel when the rod is in the right position on the cable arm-it should bottom out and lift within the working rotation of the lever. So if you get that working, put what's left of the clutch back together, tighten the springs and make sure it works.You will at the very least need to replace the friction plates in the clutch. The steels should be checked for warpage on a flat surface. If you can get .002 feeler gauge under the warp it's too far gone and they should be replaced as well. Most Yamaha clutches have a first and last friction plate that's a different part number when you order them, be sure to check that when replacing the plates.I'd get new springs as well, they're cheap. Good luck!