Tri z started and put in gear and in jumped and stalled. I started againg with clutch handle pullled in and started and it jumped and i didnt let it stall drove it around and shifted gears but was very weak. stoped and it didnt move again just reved up. took clutches apart and they looked fine with slight grooves. when I tighted clutch springs i cant pull in clutch handle way to hard and wont budge. I loosened springs till could move and put cover back on and started. I put in gear it grabbed and released clutch handle and nothing just reved up in all gears.

I too say its a stuck shift linkage.
Open the link below to see the image.
The bushings (A, D and E) can wear out with time and use. I have seen the joint (at A) that attaches at the transmission get seized too. These parts can be removed from the car with the transmission in place. http://globalcarbrands.com/i/subaru/subaru-shifter/subaru-shifter-06.jpg

clutch is not disengaging. wrong length cable or adjustment is way off. There should only be 1/4 inch of free pull on the clutch handle before you feel the tension of the clutch springs.

with the engine off put it in gear pull in the clutch if you can't move the bike the clutch is dragging and needs adjusting

I had a Tri Z, and every time it sat the clutch stuck. I'm not exactly sure why your clutch won't disengage when you tighten the springs-I do know that the springs MUST be tightened to where the bolts bottom out for it to work. I do also suspect that running it with the springs loose has burned what was left of the clutch. The basket and inner hub grooved could be an issue. It would depend on how bad it's notched. They will normally operate fine with some notching. Filing down the basket is not recommended-you would have to take the exact same amount of material off each finger of the basket for it to work properly. I've done this only to get it running while waiting for a new basket and drive hub to arrive.
The main thing now is to get the clutch to disengage w/ the lever. Take the pressure plate off, and watch for the lifter to mave about 1/8" when you pull the lever. If it's not moving, or is too high, remove the lifter, the round ball behind it and the engaging rod out of the hollow clutch shaft. A small magnet tool works well.It may have gotten past the cam on the cable end of the system. With the rod out, turn the cable actuating lever back to the end of it's slack and reinstall the rod,ball and lifter. You should be able to turn the cable actuating rod with your fingers and watch the lifter come up. You can feel when the rod is in the right position on the cable arm-it should bottom out and lift within the working rotation of the lever. So if you get that working, put what's left of the clutch back together, tighten the springs and make sure it works.You will at the very least need to replace the friction plates in the clutch. The steels should be checked for warpage on a flat surface. If you can get .002 feeler gauge under the warp it's too far gone and they should be replaced as well. Most Yamaha clutches have a first and last friction plate that's a different part number when you order them, be sure to check that when replacing the plates.I'd get new springs as well, they're cheap. Good luck!

I'm surprised it started and ran. Most often the fuel system is fouled out to the point it need to be repaired. Okay the problem you are having now is the clutch is seized and with a little luck you can break it free. If the engine starts and revs freely without bog or backfire then here is a way to see if you can loosen it up.

Select a quiet long street or empty parking lot. Start the bike in neutral while sitting in the ridding position and get someone to push you fast enough that you can maintain balance. Pull the clutch in and put it in 1st gear, it'll clunk in hold the cluch in as you are giving it a little gas to maintain a low speed. A low speed where the engine isn't at high revs but still fast enough to keep your balance.

Now here is the part that breaks it free. With the clutch still pulled in crack the throttle and back it off. The bike will leap ahead and brake down when you do this so prepare your self for the lung ahead and the stopping. Don't let the bike get down to a stall speed or it'll just kill the engine and you'll fall off. A few times doing this will **** the clutch free, once free it'll operate as normal.

Remember to keep the clutch pulled to the handle bars as you are doing this.

I had a 350 Honda that would do this to me and it was just a (four letter word) to break it free once free I didn't have anymore problem with it.

Cheers hope that works for you as it did for me and don't fall of the thing ;-)

Hi, it seems you have faulty clutch from the description you made concerning the grinding noise when you tried 2nd and 3rd gear which i thinks is as a result of the stuck and scratch you had on the speed bump. And if you try riding it in its present state, you will end up damaging the gear box...

Now if your engine stalls when you drop into 1st gear, with the clutch disengaged, then the clutch plates are stuck together. Normally in this case, before starting the engine, try putting the transmission in 2nd or 3rd gear (But you already have a problem doing that which is also as a result of the faulty clutch), pull the clutch in and roll the bike forward and backward a few times to free the stuck plates. Meanwhile fresh gasoline maybe all you need..

In summary, a clutch problem....

The side stand switch can work in cojunction with a clutch switch.
It still sounds like a side stand problem, check the wires and plug, use a multi meter to check the switch. If you didnt check it that way.
The switch may work but the stand is not pushing the contact far enough

Does the neutral light work correctly?

Assuming it is not clutch drag with the bike jumping and stalling when put in gear

conducation in the clutch cable. Hope that helps you out

now you would have to make sure your clutch is not faulty as if the bike slightly jump while putting it in first gear and cuts off , you most probably have a clutch problem .
this is what you have to try first :
start the bike on while depressing the clutch while in gear and see what happens .
if the bike keeps on running , tension the clutch .
if the bike stall , your clutch could be faulty or your oil could be too ,thick and needs changing .
try this first and let me know how you go

this may help,it doesnt sound like the clutch is out of adjustment,it sounds like the clutch plates have become stuck together,(this happens quite a bit if the bike has been parked for a while..ie over winter)..to fix it get the bike moving,down a drive way or something..then just bang it into gear,then shift into the highest gear you can by shifting without the clutch,once you have a bit of pace on simply hold the clutch lever in and work the throttle on and off all the while holding the clutch lever in,the clutch should free itself fairly quickly and should be back to normall,a lot of older bikes are good at doing this..hope this helps