Where do i hook the 3 wires out of the 80 ci motor to the wire plus module. red and white black and white and green and white

Is this a two speed motor?
motor for a spa pump?
or, are you trying to hook up a capacitor to the motor?
your question is very vague!
if you have a pump connection cord, with the colors you mentioned, did you purposely leave out the fact that there is a Green wire as well?
please be more specific as to the assistance you are seeking.
but if we're intending us to play a guessing game... then if had those colors PLUS a green wire, that would be power supply wires for a TWO speed pump motor, commonly found on SPA pumps.

• Green will always be Ground.
• White is your Common Hot LINE WIRE #1
• Black will be a SWITCHING/TOGGLE Hot LINE WIRE #2
  • Most Commonly a HIGH Speed
• Red will be a SWITCHING/TOGGLE Hot LINE WIRE #2
  • Most Commonly a LOW SPEED

There will be a decal on the side of the motor telling you which post will be what. If not, the wire up posts will have a letter designations right next to them...
C for Common
H for High
L for Low
green wire will go right onto motor

if you do not know how to wire the motor get help

Manual for GE 15265
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/GE-15265-manual.pdf
15A timer works fine on two bulbs, up to 1440 total watts.

If old switch has 2 screws plus green ground screw, then timer is right.
If old switch has 3 screws plus green ground screw, 15265 doesn't replace 3-way switch.

Timer-green wire connects to bare ground wire

Old switch has 2 screws with wires on each.
One wire is Hot-from breaker and this connects to timer-black wire.
One wire Goes-to-lights and this connects to timer-red wire.
If you get these two wires reversed, timer will not work, so reverse them.
It will not blow circuit if the timer-red and timer-black wires are reversed.

Timer-White wire is the confusing wire for everybody:
Timer-white wire runs clock motor located inside timer.
In back of electric box are neutral white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut.
Connect timer-white to these neutral wires.
If box does not have neutral white wires, connect timer-white to bare ground wire.

all of the white wires connect together and to the white house wiring ... the black of the house wiring goes to the AC input of the module (may be a black wire ) .. the blue wire from the lights goes to the light output of the module (as you already know) ...

now the motor actually has only two wires .. one white that should already be hooked up with all the other white wires .. the other goes to a block that contains the speed controlling capacitors .. and that has the 4 wires (you metioned cominng from the motor) .. the capacitors are no longer needed since the speed control inside the module takes over .. so you can eliminate the capacitor block (thats normally connected to the speed control switch that you wont need either)... that will leave you with just one wire from the motor that has to be connected to the modules motor wire output ... that should do it ... set the code on the module and remote the same (in battery compartment of remote) (good idea to make sure your neighbor isnt using the same code ..

connect the green wire (or bare wire) to the metal of the fan ..usually a green screw or a bare wire .. thats the safety ground ..

| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|red/grn & red/org |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|gry/blk or lt. blue |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|green/black |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION|pink/white |+ |ignition harness |
| THIRD IGNITION|red/wht (key sense)|+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND ACCESSORY|pink/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|black/blue |- |DDM *1 |
| POWER UNLOCK|black/white *2 |- |DDM *1 |
| LOCK MOTOR|yellow/black | |DDM *1 |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|white/purple | |DDM *1 |
| DISARM DEFEAT|white/green | |pass. kick, harness to rear |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|use neg. wire only | | |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|white/green *3 | |headlight switch |
| HEADLIGHTS|white/green *3 |*3 |headlight switch |
| DOOR TRIGGER|black/white *4 |- |underdash light |
| DOME SUPERVISION|comes on w/unlock | | |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|white/black |- |REM *5 |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|black/blue |- |release switch or REM *5 |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|arms w/ lock | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|disarms w/ unlock | | |
| TACHOMETER|brown or brn/stripe | |main harness pass. firewall |
| SPEED SENSE| | | |
| BRAKE WIRE|org/yel or org/blu |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|gray/orange |- |FEM *5 |
| WIPERS|red/blk(L),red/grn(H|+ |wiper motor |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|white - yellow |A |DDM *1 |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|wht/pur - yel/pur |A |FEM *5 |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|blu/red - pur/blu |A |REM *5 |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|blu/orn - pur/wht |A |REM *5 |
| RADIO 12V|orange/black |+ |radio |
| RADIO GROUND|black |- |radio |
| RADIO SWITCH|yellow/green |+ |radio |
Notes:
NOTE: This vehicle is equipped with a passive immobilizer that needs to be bypassed for remote start operation only. Use DEI part number 555U to bypass. *1 The DDM (drivers door module) is located in the center of the drivers door. *2 Requires a double pulse to unlock. *3 Parking lights require a negative trigger with a 1800 ohm resistor in-line to the white/green wire. Using a negative trigger with a 780 ohm resistor in-line to the same white/green wire will turn on the headlights as well as the parking lights. *4 This wire may cause the aftermarket alarm to false when the vehicles electrical system shuts down. Use a relay to isolate it. *5 The FEM (Front Electronic Module) is located in the drivers kick panel. The REM (Rear Electronic Module) is located in the trunk, just above the battery. hope that helps

I'm not sure if this is going to work in your case, but I'm pretty sure it will...

Green to ground (probably bare)
Black to black
White to the red that's not labeled 3-way
wire nut on the red labeled 3-way

That should fixya!

Constant 12V+ Red or Pink/Black - Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Yellow - Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Dark Blue - Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Black/White - Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 3 Dark Green/Red - Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Black/Orange - Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Gray Or Blue/Tan PCM Coil 2.4 Liter - Engine
Neutral Safety Wire Black/White - Power Control Module
Brake Switch White/Tan - Brake Switch
Trunk Pin Tan/Black - 40 Pin Connector at Fuse Panel
Parking Lights Light Green/White (-) - Head Light Switch Harness left of Column
Head Lamp Green/Orange - Light Switch
Factory Disarm White/Dark Green - (665 Ohm) left Connector bottom of Fuse Panel
Door Trigger Brown/White (-) - Lower right Gray Connector at Fuse Panel
Door Lock White/Dark Green - BCM at Fuse Panel
Door Unlock White/Dark Green - White Connector B58 Connector
Horn Wire Black/Red - Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Light Green, RF=Brown/White, LR=Blue, RR=Gray
Windows Down LF=White, RF=Purple/White, LR=Red/White, RR=Dark Green



Your R/S instructions should tell you what goes where.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated!!

Here is a wire diagram for your radio. Cut and past in the browser bar.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pio/pe/vgn/images/portal/cit_11221/49734CRD3311A_200012301332357300.pdf
Good Luck

green is ground, white is netural. red and black are L1 and L2
or in other words on the dryer there is a 3 screw holder red and black go on the outer ones white goes in the middle and green goes to the cabinet of the dryer

black with black is for fan motor from swith red with red is for light fan from switch blue goes conect to black thats power for the remote white wuth white thats streat line is call comun or negative green withe green that streat conection for ground protection