I have a 2009 1300 GT sometimes when I downshift by the time I get to first gear the engine has stalled it seems worse in hot weather

As a first step I'd have the gearbox fluid and filter changed, poor condition trans fluid could cause the symptoms your describing

the master cylinder that operates both the clutch and brakes is either bad or needs bled,or could be leak in either brakes or clutch slave cylinder

Hmm. I had a similar issue with my bike years ago and it ended up being the coil.

is the OD lamp acting up> is the CEL lamp on, driving???????????

old car, most 96 have long since , given up the ghost.

stops in 1st gear?

some times. (common) the oil (ATF) gets hot (normal) and when hot

it is more thin, and when more thin, finds leaks inside better.

what can happen is pump pressure is marginal and hot fails.



and pressure inside drops and transmission fails to shift.

did you run the scanner to see if THE A/T has thrown DTC codes?



why not get the A/.T a full service, most are never done.

and will be full of junk inside due to zero service. (this full flush is good on cars every 50k, but if ignored for 300k , the flush makes it worse)

but do pull the codes first.

the FSM covers that.

It has full on car testing , read that too.

Does the A/T fail (hot) and stick in1st gear

(the stall test in the FSM pass?>)?



the stall test, is with all brakes hard set.

and you do a hot engine/trans , WOT, for 5 seconds max. (RTM)

RTM means read the manual, its documented 100% this.

WOT is wide open throttle (short time)



then you look at RPM (engine)

and see how high it goes, if too low, the engine is weak

if too high the transmission is slipping and will now burn up if driven



do not ignore slipping or doom happens faster.

the next test is the on car,. tranny test ports for pump pressure.

that too, is in the FSM for first checks)



The A/T is complex. read the book, or get help

check the fuel pump relay and wiring

Have you had the codes read? I would at this point suspect a faulty sensor which is breaking down when hot. Crank or cam sensor likely.

locate the mass air flow sensor. it's located inline with the air intake. it should be right after the air filter. disconnect the plug and see if the car runs better. also, when tapping on it lightly on the sensor with a screwdiver handle and the engine skips, could also indicate a bad sensor. these sensors will not always set the check engine light. suspecting the fuel system is also a possibility

PCM going bad. real common

change trans fluid and filter

Hot weather equals thinner oil equals rattles


If the engine is a high miler try using a multigrade with a higher viscosity or dump a can of STP or Wynns into the engine to bulk out the oil when it is hot