How do you bleed the master cylinder? - 2005 kawasaki KX 250 F

Try bleed

1. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder. ...
2. Locate the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. ...
3. Attach the hose to the bleed screw. ...
4. Open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. ...
5. Have a friend press the clutch pedal in and hold it. ...
6. Close the bleed screw. ...
7. Have your friend release the clutch pedal.

Bleeding Clutch by Blocking the Slave Cylinder

Does the brake pedal go to the floor? Or does it stay up, and is hard to push...? Did you bleed the master cylinder? Also, you will need to bleed all 4 wheels connection to the brake wheel cylinders...you must start with the rear, farthest from the master cylinder, then other rear, then front farthest from the master cylinder, then other front...the bleeding of each line is a must, since you switched the master cylinder.

How do i bleed brake master cylinder on a peugeot expert g9p, so far i have bled using vacuum, changed brake master cylinder, bleed using the pumping system (two people), bleed and help manually from furthest from BMC

Hi there:
I suggest to check this procedure, when the hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever a fluid line has been disconnected because air gets into the system.

A leak in the system may sometimes be indicated by a spongy brake pedal. Air trapped in the system is compressible and does not permit the pressure applied to the brake pedal to be transmitted solidly through the brakes. The system must be absolutely free from air at all times. If the master cylinder has been overhauled or a new cylinder has been installed, bleed the cylinder on a bench before installation. When bleeding brakes, bleed at the wheel most distant from the master cylinder first, the next most distant second, and so on. During the bleeding operation the master cylinder must be kept at least 3 / 4 full of brake fluid.


The ABS bleeding procedure is different from the conventional method. It consists of the following three steps:
Step 1: Conventional manual brake bleed.
Step 2: Bleeding the system using the DRB scan tool.
Step 3: An additional conventional manual brake bleed.

The recommended ABS bleeding procedure is as follows:

1. To bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all dirt from around the master cylinder filler cap. Remove the filler cap and fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid to the lower edge of the filler neck.
2. Bleed the master cylinder first. Have a helper operate the brake pedal while bleeding each master cylinder fluid outlet line. Do not allow the master cylinder to to run out of fluid,as this will allow additional air to be drawn into the cylinder.
3. Bleed the brake system in the following sequence:
   1. Master cylinder
   2. HCU valve body (at fluid lines)
   3. Right rear wheel
   4. Left rear wheel
   5. Right front wheel
   6. Left front wheel
4. Clean off the bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders. Attach the bleeder hose to the right rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw and place the end of the tube in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
5. Open the bleeder valve 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn.
6. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly and allow it to return. Continue this pumping action to force any air out of the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
7. Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and replenish as necessary.
8. After the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder has been completed, fill the master cylinder reservoir and replace the filler plug.

Do not reuse the fluid which has been removed from the lines through the bleeding process because it contains air bubbles and dirt.

1. Perform the "Bleed Brake'' procedure with the DRB II scan tool. This procedure is described in the DRB II software information and diagnostic guide.
   1. Attach the DRB II scan tool to the diagnostic connector.
   2. Run the Bleed Brake procedure as described in the DRB II tester guide.
2. Repeat the conventional bleeding procedure as previously outlined.
3. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.
4. Check the brake operation.

Hope this helps.

remove line from the side of clutch master cylinder two bolts or nuts on firewall inside vehicle is a pin on the upper side of clutch remove and pull old unit out bench bleed new master by filling and pressing in on the piston of the master cylinder. if you dont have a hose fitting dont bench bleed bleed it in vehicle( this method takes longer) install back in vehicle and hook it all back up torque bolts to 25 ft lbs then bleed the slve cylinder from under vehicle near back of motor just like bleeding brakes pump up hold and release the line pressure by opening valve on slave cylinder.

First bench bleed the master cylinder. Or if its still on the car do this, have some one pump the pedal hold and open one line,do this three times, move to the next line pump three time hold and open the line. Hows the pedal. getting firmer no go ahead bleed as usual. let me know we can fix this together

First, bleed the master cylinder. You do this by loosening the line nut on the output end of the master cylinder, press the foot pedal until it sinks all the way down, tighten the nut, release the pedal. Continue to do this in this EXACT sequence until all the air is out of the master cylinder.

Then using the EXACT sequence, bleed the rear brake caliper or the rear wheel cylinder. If your bike is equipped with drum brakes, you'll have to adjust the brake shoes to the drum.

Very important, DO NOT ALLOW THE MASTER CYLINDER TO RUN DRY DURING THE BLEEDING PROCESS. Make sure that the small hole in the bottom of the master cylinder is clear.

Good Luck
Steve

Did you bleed the master cylinder before you put it in the vehicle?This usually makes it easier to bleed the entire brake system if this is done before you install the master cylinder.Other wise all you have done is put air in the brake system.The master cylinder kit usually comes with a bleeder kit.This is for bench bleeding the master.Hope this helps.Good luck.

You bleed it like you would a normal system but you must use the boost assist to do it, in order to do this start the truck pump the brakes three times and bleed that cylinder farthest away from the master cylinder do this twice or until you get clear fluid to run out. add fluid for every cylinder before moving on. Do this for each wheel and after doing all four wheels you should be ready to go. If it feels mushy you will have to bleed it a second time. But you must have the engine running to bleed the brakes unless you have a power bleeder. You may want to bleed the master cylinder first to do this add fluid to the cylinder then pump brakes three times crack the front line open and allow it to bleed air rout of the line do the same for the rear master cylinder once yo get solid fluid from the master cylinder you can dot the same for the ABS then do the wheel cylinders and wheel calipers. This needs to be done sometimes, be sure to never let the master cylinder run out of fluid and check it each time you bleed the wheel cylinders.

First You Bench Bleed The Master Cylinder Before Installation. Use The Provided Plugs Given With The New Master. Use Screw Driver And In And Out Motion You Bleed Until No Bubbles. Then After Installation, Crack Line And Have Buddy Slowly Push Down On Pedal. Close Line. Repeat To Other Line. You're Done