Bike was running fine, good battery, turned off then turned ignition on had power then went off. Checked battery connections & fuses all ok, then got a jump and it idled ok but breaks up and lights go dim when I excell. Seems like a charging system problem, like it's not charging at all just running on the battery??

There should be a small fuse box near the battery with probably three fuses inside. Have you checked those?

Sounds like it might be your rectifier. Happened to me. Replaced the rectifier and the battery nad the problem went away. The bad rectifier WILL eventually quite working. Try hooking up jumper cables to the bike to see if it gets power. If it does, and your battery and fuses are fine, I would suggest you have your rectifier checked and replaced. Good luck!

Fuses ok ? Tough one.

Locate wire block at ignition switch, using a test light or multimeter check red wire for 12 volts dc, if you have no voltage here, you will have to trace the wire back to the battery and fusebox some models have a circuit breaker on the underside of the battery box, or in the imidiate area, its a 2 wire breaker with a transparrent cover and a red dot in the centre, push at this point to reset, have you checked the fuse at the solenoide 30 amp, if you do have power at the red, turn the ignition switch to the park position as the bike has a seperate live to the rear light, it should light(this will also proove you have power at the ignition)

I have a similar problem, and a friend who has the same model as me says the dragstars are notorious for battery wear, especially standard batteries, he also suggested I tried a motobatt battery as they have 20% more power on ignition than a standard type, if that doesn't cure it then look towards the solenoid, that is what I plan on doing, if I find the root cause I will let you know and if you do, you will have to tell me, good luck to both of us.

I don't know how much you've checked on your bike, but no power would mean checking battery for power and good connection first and then work towards your ignition.

The power from your battery goes fromt the positive post of the battery directly to the starter. At the starter, there should be two connections. The large battery cable and a smaller red wire. This red wire is "hot' wire to all the "accessories" on your bike. The wire runs straight from there to the ignition switch. If you don't have power to the main switch, you have a main fuse blown somewhere. You'll need a schematic to trace the wiring out from there. I'm sorry but I don't have a schematic for that model bike. Make sure all your connections are clean and tight and your "Run/Stop" switch in the in the proper position.

If there still is no response to your ignition switch once that you already have check the fuse in the starter solenoid of your bike then you have to service the ignition system. but if you can't then you have to go to a mechanic. The mechanic should check the ignition switch , the ignition coil ,the starter solenoid, the spark plug ,the spark plug cable , then the battery. if there is a malfunctioning or worn out of these said parts then you have to repair it or replace it. then you also have to check the wires if there are loose wires or worn out wires then reconnect if loose wires but if worn out then replace the wires.the most important for some times is the fuse if there i a worn out fuse you have to replace the worn out fuse. But if the fuse you replace cant hold the wat/amp of the bike then place fuse that is higher than the former fuse you place.

Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).

Touch a 12" piece of wire to one terminal then touch the other end of the wire to the other terminal. Got a really good spark? No spark = bad battery. Okay, so you do get a good spark. Check the wiring harness for an unplugged wire. Also check for loose connections and burned wires. Bad ignition switch? Kill switch turned on?