Getting the spark plugs out! i don't have the tool kit that came with,and i can't get a plug socket on. any ideas?

the only specialty tool your should need is a spark plug socket and an extension for the ratcheting wrench.

Other than that, metric wrenches and sockets should work just great.

There are proper spark plug sockets out their but you may need to use a swivel attachment at the end of an extension.Hope this helps.

Those shouldn't be too hard to change.
You'll need:

3/8 drive ratchet
6 inch extension
5/8 inch spark plug socket
gap tool for spark plugs (Autozone usually has them at the counter)
anti seize compound
torque wrench for tapered seat spark plug (beam style)

First you need to remove the spark plug wires from end of the spark plugs. To remove a wire/boot grab the boot at the top and twist it a couple of times to break the boot loose from the plug. Don't pull the boot out by the wire. Once it is loose pull up on the boot to remove the wire/boot. Take note of which wire goes where. If you have any damaged wires, wires that have white flash burns, boots that are contaminated with engine oil, or boots that are damaged you should replace the wires/boots as a set.

Put together your ratchet, extension, and socket. Remove the spark plugs by turning CCW.

Using the gap tool make sure that the gaps are set correctly on your plugs. All platinum and iridium plugs come pre-gapped and should be inspected before you purchase them at the counter. The gap specifications should be on the underhood sticker. It is probably .044 inch. If they are platinum or iridium plugs, it isn't recommended to use a coin or wire gap tool because you may damage the center electrode or ground strap points.

Apply a tiny amount of anti seize to the spark plug threads. The anti seize will aid in installation and removal later on. Carefully tighten the spark plug. If the plug you are installing is equipped with a crush washer, seat the plug, then tighten about 1/4 turn to crush the washer. If you are installing a tapered seat plug, tighten the plug with a torque wrench to specifications provided by the vehicle or plug manufacturer.


Custom Car Body Kits

You can find a lot of pictures and videos on how to do basic maintenance on your BMW at places like UTube, Pelican Parts, and Doug's Domain.
You did not mention the year and model of your car, but the general instructions for MOST BMWs sold in the past 20 years are as follows:
Pry off the little plastic caps and unscrew the 10 mm bolts that hold the plastic covers on top of the engine.
Most BMWs have coils over the spark plugs. You have to release the locks on the plugs and unplug the coils from the wiring harness. Then remove the two 10 mm bolts that hold on each coil. Tug hard to pull the coil out of the hole.
If your car has thick wires running to each spark plug (e.g. older 318 model), you don't have coils over the plugs. Grip the rubber boot, not the wire, when pulling the wire free from the spark plug.
Then you need a deep well 5/8" socket that is magnetic or has a rubber gripper inside to hold the spark plugs so you can pull them up out of the hole when they are unscrewed. You will need an extension for the socket to reach down in the hole. A 6" extension is enough.
The spark plugs for a BMW should have nickel plated threads so they don't require antiseize compound, but even with nickel, some folks put a dab of antiseize compound on the threads to make sure the plug does not seize to the aluminum head.
The plugs are made of porcelain (glass) so be careful not to drop them. A plug that has been dropped on a hard surface should be discarded, even if it looks OK.
The most important part of this job is to carefully start the plugs back into their holes holding the socket extension in your hand, not the ratchet. They should thread in easily. DON'T force them! If you cross-thread a plug in its hole, this simple maintenance job can turn into several thousand dollars in repairs.
If you don't have a torque wrench (and I assume you don't), you want to tighten the plug by hand until the copper gasket touches the head. Then take the socket and give it another revolution or so against some resistance as the copper gasket crushes. When the copper gasket is crushed, The resistance to turning will suddenly increase. That is when you stop turning. Remember that the head is soft aluminum. It has to be tight enough to seal tightly and not vibrate loose, but not so tight that it strips the threads out of the hole. ($$$$)
After tightening the plug, you may find the the extension pulls out of the socket easier than the socket pulls free of the plug. You can tape the socket to the extension, or use some other tool to reach down in the hole and fish the socket out if the hole.

Tools Required or used to assist:

-1/4" ratchet
-1/2" ratchet
-Long extension
-Short extension
-3/4" (I believe, the normal sized one, not the huge one) spark plug socket
-Needle Nose pliers
-Flat head screw driver
-Adjustable pliers
-8mm socket
-10mm socket
-12mm socket
-#5 Hex Wrench
-12mm wrench with closed end on one side
-Spark plug gap tool with wire gap checker
-Flashlight
1. Buy replacement spark plugs. I bought Bosch Platinum+2 plugs for about $4/apiece from an online parts store, but from what I've read, the Platinum+4 are much better. They provide much more complete ignition and offer a noticeable improvement in mileage. One anecdote I heard was a friend of a friend who went from 20mpg to 24mpg on his BMW 3-series. The platinum+4 are only $1 more, so the possible performance improvement is well worth it.


2. Get your tools.


3. Remove the engine vanity cover by removing the three bolts near the base (front) of the engine. You'll need a hex wrench to get these out. See the picture below for location. Once the screws are out, rotate the lexus logo 90? and the cover should come off pretty easily.


4. Practice removing one of the easier spark plugs in the front.


5. First, disconnect the electrical connector from the spark plug tube head by pressing the end with your thumb and using a flat-head screwdriver to pry the connector off. Remove the spark plug tube screw using a socket wrench or equivalent. The tube should now slide out. See the picture below for reference. That was practice, now put it back in and replace the screw holding it in place.


6. Clean the area around each spark plug tube using a hand towel, pressurized air canister, or both. This includes the spark plugs behind the intake manifold. This will be tough because you will have to work by hand, but it is important.


7. Start by removing the most difficult spark plugs - in this case, the back ones. It is better to do the easy ones last, in case - for some reason - you give up or can't get the back plugs out. The back plugs are located behind the intake manifold (see picture below). You'll have to get to them through the opening indicated by the '''blue arrow. You can make this more accessible by removing what I think is the cruise control bracket. Loosen the nut indicated by the '''yellow arrow and remove the bolt indicated by the '''red arrow. Warning: these might be very tight.'''''''''


8. Repeat step 5 starting with the rear right spark plug (rear right when facing the front of the car), followed by the rear center, then rear left. When removing the spark plug, be sure not to let any dirt or debris fall into the engine. It could cause sever damage. The best thing to do is to remove the old spark plug, briefly inspect it, and immediately begin installing the new spark plug.

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The spark plug socket that will fit all of your spark plugs is in your tool kit.

You are always best off using the wrench that Honda supplies in the tool kit. It is designed to fit in your motorcycles head and has a grabber to lift the plug out of the spark plug hole. Provided a previous owner did not keep the tool kit or forget to put the spark plug wrench back in the kit . If you do not have a tool kit , you can purchase one at a Honda dealer or , if they want too much for the kit , you can order the spark plug wrench by itself , probably for around $10.

You may have the wrong tool kit in your bike. Honda always gives you a spark plug wrench that will work with your bike in your tool kit. The tool kit may have been switched or incorrectly replaced at some point with a kit that contained the wrong wrench. You can go to a Honda dealer and order just the spark plug wrench you need off the parts microfiche probably for under $10.

You need a long reach plug wrench tool should have one in your bikes tool kit .

Yes, it is an 18mm plug but you will need to use the Honda Plug Tool which is part of the stock tool kit just below the seat. Use that and you will get all of the plugs out very easily.