Question about 1992 Yamaha FZR 600
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Yamaha Yzf600r vacuum lines diagram Google Search
OEM parts for Yamaha
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Posted on Mar 31, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
a jump box is nothing more then a battery with leads on it so where are you connecting it verses the new battery you put in the bike. that doesn't make since unless you are connecting the box right to the starter motor then it be constently running the motor untill you unhooked it. check all your fuses and examine all wire harnesses for damage, burns, or any mellting.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
it sounds like your fork seal has failed,it wont affect your brakes but will make your front suspension feel a wee bit "soggy"and will affect your handling,i would suggest getting the seal replaced as evetually the oil from the faulty seal will contaminate your brake pads that will affect your braking performance,replacing the seal,sooner rather than later ,would be a wise move..hope this helps...cheers
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
SOURCE: changing battery
Check your rectifier. Follow alternator wire, you will find a small probably square device. isolate it. Test it with diode checker or ohm meter. electric should pass one way but not the other. There will probably be two diodes in the device - one or both could be shorted (pass either way or neither way) Id check it before plunking down the $ for a new one. Could be your alternator is not putting out. Is your battery fully charged? No power into the alternator = no power out of the alternator. Alternator shorted - well time for a new one. Though this is not the weak link in a charging system. Could remorely be the voltage regulator ... still id look ata the rectifier.
Posted on Sep 07, 2009
SOURCE: Carb Sync on an 01 YZF 600R
Here is a diagram showing the tubes you connect your vacuum gauges to.
The YZF600R is carbureted, so I do not know what you mean by throttle body adjustments.
Synchronizing carburetors means adjusting the throttle plates (butterflies) so that all cylinders are drawing the same amount of vacuum.
Here is a diagram of the carbs. Screw #31 is the screw used to change the sync.
Remember one other key point, all carbs are sync'ed to the #3 carb. You cannot change the vacuum (directly) on #3. It is usually best to start by syncing #2 to #3, then #4, then #1. Changing #2 can affect the sync on #1 so you definitely want to do 1 after 2 no matter what. If you have one cylinder WAY out of sync, that would be an exception to the previous rule where you would want to attempt to get that cylinder in the ball park of the others before fine tuning each cylinder.
Syncing the carbs is an alternating process between adjusting the vacuum then adjusting the idle. If they were out of sync, bringing them back in, or even getting close, can cause the idle to raise because the engine isn't fighting itself anymore. Always keep the engine idling @ 1100 rpm's while syncing.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
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