Front sprocket on the GPX600R is to thin for the spline. Is there a spacer or sleeve that should take up the space. There is about quater inch of movement from the back of the sprocket to the engine casing and the sprocket is flexing. I thought that the sprocket would have a lip or take up the space but everyone is saying this is the correct sprocket. Help needed

Hi Jake if you have the right tools it will be no trouble. Before you remove the rear wheel remove the front sprocket cover and loosen the nut or nuts holding the front sprocket. This will be safer than doing it with the r/wheel off. Next remove the wheel and keep note as to where the spacers go (don't mix them up!) remove the sprocket nuts and the sprocket. Again note which way the sprocket goes some have a thinner center so make sure the new one fits the same way. Refit the wheel leave it loose and loosen the adjusters allowing the wheel all the way forward. Then open the chain and join the new chain to the end of the old one with the link supplied then pull the old chain until the new one is fitted. Next join the new chain together. ( you may need to remove a link or two) it will depend on the length of the new chain. After this fit the new f/sprocket and tighten the nut then adjust the chain leaving 1.5inches of free play up and down. Make sure the adjusters sre even on the marks each side. And finaly After a day or two of use adjust again to around 1 inch up and down. Have fun. Regards Jim...

To remove a 2008 Touring rear wheel FIRST raise the bike with the rear wheel off the ground, remove the saddlebags, inspect the wheel bearings, remove the left side muffler,on (FLHX) models equipped with low profile shock absorbers the remove left side lower saddlebag support rail, if ABS equipped cut the cable strap to release the rear wheel speed sensor cable from the brake hose to the brake caliper, remove the two socket head screws to release the brake caliper from its bracket, remove the brake caliper from the brake disc, pry the inner and outer brake pads back for additional clearance as necessary using a stiff putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, loosen the cone with an AXLEfNUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIMs or H-D to get up between the axle nut and the right side muffler, remove the cone nut and adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the opposite side of the axle in a counterclockwise direction until the wheel is loose, use a soft metal drift to tap the axle towards the left side of motorcycle and catch the external spacer(s) (noting their place and orientation for reinstallation), pull the axle free of the rear swingarm, the caliper bracket, the rear wheel speed sensorf(if ABS equipped), and the wheel hub, keeping the ABS wheel speed sensor and ABS encoder bearing away from al magnetic fields such as magnetic parts trays, magnetic base dial indicators, alternator rotors, etc etc to avoid destroying them, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear swingarm, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off from the compensator drive sprocket, hold onto the compensator drive sprocket while removing the rear wheel so that the isolators will not fall out, if necessary, remove to remove the brake disc remove the five fasteners and release the disc from the hub after marking the disc and the hub for re-assembly alignment in their original position.

To install a 2008 touring rear wheel FIRST reinstall the brake disc in its original orientation if it was removed and tighten the fasteners alternatively to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), ensure that the compensator sprocket is square and fully seated in its proper position, put the wheel into the rear swingarm and slide it forward and put the belt over compensator sprocket and then move the wheel back to take up the slack in the belt, install the caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear swingarm, apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease onto the axle, the bearing bores and the bore of the spacer sleeve, insert the axle through the left side of the rear swingarm, the thin external spacer, and the rear wheel drive compensator sprocket into the and through the wheel hub left side and out the right side, through the rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) (the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped), are on the outboard side) or the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the caliper bracket, and the right side of the swingarm, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and then with the thumb down and the cam forward install the adjuster cam on the end of the axle, avoiding contact with threads apply a thin film of LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE lubricant to the inboard side of the cone nut, install the cone nut on the axle finger tight, obtain torque wrench with 1/2 inch drive head and the AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER, install the torque adapter perpendicular to torque wrench ONLY or applied torque will be inaccurate, insert the tool up between rear wheel and the muffler and onto the cone nut, verify that the adjustment cam just contacts the weld nub on both sides of the swingarm (if necessary, push the wheel forward somewhat to do this), if ABS equipped route the sensor cable forward and outboard of the caliper bracket and then continue forward with it following the top of the swingarm, rotate the wheel speed sensor in a counter-clockwise direction until its index pin makes contact with the caliper bracket at its proper contact point, tighten the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs (20-27 Nm), properly position and install the brake caliper, align the holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper bracket install the two socket head screws and alternately tighten them to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), install a new cable strap 1.25 in. (31.8 mm) in front of the brake hose crimp capturing the rear wheel speed sensor cable and brake hose together, using a belt tension gauge adjust the drive deflection to FLHR/C 3/8-7/16 inches or 9.5-11.1mm; FLHT/C/U FLTR FLHX 1/4-5/16 inches or 6.4-7.9 mm at the loosest spot in the belt, holding the weld nut on the left side of the axle tighten the cone nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), loosen it nut one full turn, retighten it to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), recheck the belt deflection, install a newE-clip in groove on right side of axle with the flat side out, on (FLHX), models with low profile shock absorbers properly install and torque into place the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install left side muffler, verify that the exhaust pipes are in alignment and do not contact the vehicle frame or mounted components, tighten the TORCA clamp to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-81 Nm), pump the brakes to position the pad against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and road test the motorcycle for proper operation.

It Will Have An External Snap Ring. To Retain Sprocket On The Spline Shaft Or A Strap Clip Bolted To The Sprocket. The Strap Has A Slot That Engages The Spline Shaft Thereby Retaining The Sprocket To The Shaft. Of Course You Will Have To Loosen The Chain To Access The Sprocket

If you look at the case , you should see a cast spacer in it. If the sprocket "Rocks" on the shaft, you may have some debris on the case mating face (the inside of the sprocket) - remove the sprocket and clean the shaft and mating face to make sure there is no debris. When the sprocket securing nut is fitted, the sprocket should have no noticeable rocking. Make sure the nut is torqued to the correct setting.

Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
Go to this link and drill down to below indicated: http://cyclehuttktm.com/FicheFinderNew/FicheFinder.aspx 2001 > 400 SX RACING > ENGINE > TRANSMISSION II
You can loosen the chain tension from the adjusters at the end of the swing arm. Then remove the mud guard (If exists) covering the front sprocket. Remove the M10 X 18mm bolt holding the sprocket. Slide the sprocket and chain off the spline and change out. If unable to slide off the spline you can always open the master link on the chain and do same step.

Use reverse process to re-install new sprocket. Readjust chain tension and make sure to re-tighten axel nuts. Good idea to use Locktite on the 10 x 18 bolt and spring washer holding the front sprocket. Replace mud guard or leave off as to your preference.
Kind regards,
TF

To replace the stator on your Wide Glide, you'll have to pull the outer primary cover off. This means drain the oil and remove the outer primary cover. Then, you'll need a wrench to remove the large nut on the engine compensator sprocket. You'll probably need a "locking bar" to wedge between the sprokets to lock the assembly from turning. Remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly, remove the clutch release plate that is held in by the snap ring. Inside the clutch is a nut that has LEFT HANDED THREADS, remove this nut. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster. Grab the clutch assembly and the engine compensator sprocket and lift these parts and the chain off as a unit.

Now, there are some thin spacers that go behind the sprocket shaft extension and a 0.090" thick spacer that goes behind the rotor. Do not mix these shims up. You'll see two holes in the rotor. I use two 5/16" bolts about three inches long to get the rotor off. Stick them in the holes just slightly, squeeze the outer ends towards each other and pull the rotor off. The magnets are pretty strong. The stator is held on by four small Torx head bolts and there's nylon retainer with two small screws that hold the plug in. Retorque the four Torx head screws to 40 inch pounds of torque with a Loctite #242 blue or equivalent thread locking compound on them. Reassembly is the reverse of the assembly. The torque on the clutch assembly nut (mainshaft nut) is 60-70 foot pounds with one line of Loctite #271 red locktite, (remember this nut has left-handed threads) and the engine compensator sprocket torques to 150-165 foot pounds with two lines of Loctite #271 red. Adjust the primary chain so that the up and down play in the center of the top run is 3/4" to 7/8" cold. Outer primary bolts torque to 100 inch pounds.

For a better explanation, you'll need an OEM service manual.

Good Luck
Steve

the a/c units keep getting smaller, when unit replacement is slightly smaller , the extra space can be filled with a piece of plywood or rigid foam insulation with a thin layer of plywood, any edges seen from inside can be covered with trim, make sure the wood covers entire bottom layer of sleeve to properly support. or just find the larger unit if you can. hope this helps.

you place it between 1and 2 or at the end of the of the sprocket don't worry about that just install it

front axle installation: looking at the front of the bike:

slide the wheel into position and insert the axle from the left. with axle now through the right hand fork, install nut and tighten the left fork pinch bolts to secure the axle for tightening the nut. tighten the nut to 29.5 ftlbs. and loosen the left pinch bolts. now tighten the right pinch bolts and compress the front suspension while the left (from front) is still loose. now allow suspension to rest naturally and tighten all 4 pinch bolts to 11 ftlbs.
your done.......the axle is tighten against the rotor side and the other fork is then tighten in it's natural position so as not to cause premature seal and bushing failure and increasing stiction.

The foam on the feed roller is probably decayed/ soft. Which has caused the plastic gear that engages that drive gear to wear. If the gear is moved/ spaced over to pick up the 40% that isn't trashed - it'll feed.

I'm going to try to fix my Goodwill purchase anyway. Anything is better that the Canon piece of rubbish I have now. Mybe someone can tell Canon that a few months of use is not enough?

-Sano-