The clutch cable is seized so i'm going to replace it, tried to operate the lever down at the gear box manually to check the drive, "very tight" is this normal? obviuosly thats why you need a lever or does this indicate a problem with the push rod or clutch assembly

If belt is ok, then likely the rear wheel dogs have seized. Review the following PartsTree diagram, what they call ratchet key item 3.
https://www.partstree.com/parts/honda/mowers-walk-behind-lawn-mower/hrb216-tda-honda-walk-behind-mower-made-in-usa-sn-maaa-1000001/rear-wheel .
When the mower is off, you would normally hear the dogs click as you pushed the mower. These get dirty from debris and then rust up and seize (no longer click). Once seized, the transmission drive shaft just spins inside the drive gear. Remove bolt wheel and wheel to access and clean out all the dirt and debris. Inspect inside side of rear wheel and verify wheel gear is in good condition. If all looks good then onto the drive gear. You could try penetrating oil, but if dogs are seized you'll likely need to remove the gear... the key is spring loaded so take not to loose the key and spring. They're small pieces and once they launch they may be lost forever.
I don't remember if the "cover" has to be removed. If it does, there are a lot of small parts, be careful not to loose and keep in correct order. Consult diagram frequently.

1991 Prizm (aka, Corolla) dead clutch (aka SLIPS)
does engine crank and start in gear? in gear?
the first thing to check is the clutch pedal actuation system.
cable on some , and Hydraulic on othere
open hood, see that MC for clutch, is the Reservoir dry?
yes, no?
yes, then the slave or mc is bad or both, the one leaking is bad.
Most cases Hydra clutches can not cause slip. (rare)
its a cable, can if cable frays inside or rust, (big time common)
well all cable clutches need service, if not it fails.
called setting free play in the book, FSM book
I love the above post where he guesses then sets a price.
first is diagnosis prices last and varies all over planet earth
and is useless here. prices. always.
Ill look in Michell's for you.
it's not a cable system,
Mitchells shows, hydra. clutch
so unbolt the slave.(on bell)
start car in gear, does car move. yes /no?
yes, clutch ok , and slave is siezed.
no, then clutch is bad (inside bell housing) $$$$$

i posted both ways, as these era cars run to clutch systems.
that could even change mid year, production.

S= slave
Bell = bell housing
L = clutch lever.
see the 2 bolts?
some Slaves can seize (due to running old fluid full of water)
Dot3 fluid is hydrascopic and needs service every 2 years. min.
we check the MC and all parts related here.
to see if the L lever is stuck to the right above.
never condemn any clutch until these checks are done
or go broke fast. IMO

remove the battery lead. remove the drive shaft at the diff flange and remove it from the gear box. undo engine mounts/ cross member at rear of gear box if necessary. undo bell housing bolts around rear of engine. remove gear lever if stick shift . If not remove linkages at gear box Pull gearbox rear wards and lower to the ground . A point of interest here is that when a clutch sudders it is advisable to firstly check all the engine mounts are not soft as this affects the clutch operation especially if you have a cable operated clutch

I'd start by looking at the clutch hydraulic circuit. "...could not put gear into 1st or reverse" suggests that the change cables on the transmission may be failing. And just in case, make sure there's nothing in the cabin that's jamming the gear change lever.

check the selector levers for wear and possible jamming or if you have the lever directly into the top of the box then check the lever pivot pin in the turret of the gear box.

Sounds like you may have a bigger problem than a broken cable. First without engine running use the clutch and check how easy the gear lever shifts from neutral to first. Push the bike forward and let the clutch lever out slowly do you feel it begin to bite. If not readjust the cable as per the user manual then try again. If you can feel the bite when pushing try again with the engine running. If still no go I would look at the clutch operating mechanism and push rod.

If you have a manual gear box there are two things that you can check. First is the engine mounts especially the rear one to see if the rubber has broken away. Check all engine mounts for the same problem.. The second is a failing clutch or if you have a cable operated clutch it points to engine mounts. What appears to be happening is when you engage the clutch in first gear the torque reaction of the engine is rolling the gear box away from the clutch actuation arm or lever. The clutch slips ,the engine rolls back ,the clutch engages , the engine rolls and so you have a bad shudder. When you are moving the reaction is less as you move up through the gears . If all is good then have a qualified clutch and brake specialist do a check on the clutch itself.

Try a new cable, and make sure the funky suzuki weak pedal
is not cracked or the spline at top end is not stripped.
there are 2 parts here. not counting the shift lever that can fail.
1: the pedal actuator and cable.
2: the clutch actual.

if the clutch lever moves (at bell) 1 inch the (no play) then the clutch is bad.
see that simple test? the 1 inch?
you step on the pedal and the lever on the throw out moves 1inch.
that is all the curator does.


the cables is only good for like 100kmiles, (more if lubed)
and like to break in the center where you cant see, they fry there
and prevents you from setting up free play right.
see the problem here? if the cable is bad , you had tension on the
bell lever and the clutch slipped and burned up.
the cable is the cheapest part and the lowest labor.
why folks replace it last , is a wonder. but see that all the time.

do you understand the free play rules here. on all clutches.
(cable or lever type)
it must have free play, 1/2 inch at the pedal or 1/8" at bell lever.
if not the throwout burns up.
if not, (worse) the clutch slips.
if not the PP fingers overheat and the spring fails, (anneals)
free play.
and changes to tighter as you drive and clutch wears.
if you cant get the free play right ,its a big issue.
the #1 reason is bad CABLE. $25 and its out.

1. replace your gear oil.
2. is this an automatic or manual transmission engine? if manual, adjust your clutch release a little higher than usual to let your clutch engange earlier.

Is the clutch lever sized or is the plates sized?
Usually the plates inside sizes, all you have to do is select gear 2 or 3 without starting the bike's engine,operate the clutch lever and push the bike,it should release, the rear wheel should now rotate freely with clutch lever in operation and in gear.
Hope this helps!