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On really warm days the front brakes on my 1976 Kawasaki 900 LTD begin to tighten and the brakes apply. It gets to tight that I have to pull over and bleed the pressure off. I have rebuilt the master cylinder, put on new brake lines and rebuilt the calipers and still have the problem, but only on warm days
Re: On really warm days the front brakes on my 1976...
Make sure the piston in the master is going all the way back past the bleed orifice, if it ddoesn't go all the way back the system willl build pressure through heat
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Find safe area w/o traffic. Reach 50 mph, then gently apply rear (only) brake and feel if shaking reduced through 45mph. Then it's rear wheel. Don't recommend trying this with front brake.
pull the caliper off u will need a c clamp remove the new pads using 1 of the old pad position it againest the caliper piston DO NOT LOOSEN THE BLEEDER SCREW loosen the reservor cap slightly
position the c clamp on the caliper using the end that turns againest the old brake pad push the piston down into the caliper until the c clamp is tight remove clamp and install new pads position caliper and new pads on cycle tighten to specs also when u push the piston in the caliper u might see a little brake fluid coming from the reservoir dont panic this is perfectly normal' now fill reservoir if needed apply brakes slowly and release wait aprox 5to 10 seconds allowing thystem e reservoir piston to return to its resting place keep repeating this procedure and you will begin to c the caliper slowly moving into place giving you braking power again after the brakes pump up hold down firmly on them use a boxed in wrench and quickly loosen the bleeder screw and tighten it back this will remove any air from the system u will notice the brakes get firm faster now check your brakes if u want them to apply faster perform the bleeder screw procedure again this should take care of the problem good luck
Hi,
You need to release the hydraulic pressure!
Just loosen up the bleeder nipple on the brake caliper till the fluids comes out. Re tighten it again afterwards.
You got a problem on brake master or the caliper piston. Need to overhaul the front brake system.
Is that the EN 450? If so I happen to have a factory service manual for that.
Go to the right hand side of the crankcase and loosen both adjuster nuts on the cable so it moves freely in the bracket.
Loosen the cables locknut at the lever and turn the adjuster bolt so there is about 5-6mm of thread showing between the locknut and the head of the adjuster bolt.
Now go back down to the crankcase and pull on the cable housing towards the front of the bike and tighten the front adjuster nut against the bracket. Then tighten the rear nut.
Now go back to the lever and adjust the cable so there is about a 2-3mm gap of freeplay between the lever and its bracket. Then tighten the locknut againts the levers bracket.
R u talking about brake or clutch lever. Clutch lever controls ur clutch engagement/disengagement and normally are hard wired. Front brake lever on the other hand (RH above your gas grip) uses fluid to work. When you change the master cyl did you do a complete air bleed before tightening your bleder nut? Also check the tightnes of all connections, sounds as if you have an air leak somewhere in the connections.
•Using the jack under the frame, and stabilize the motorcycle.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001–1238
•Loosen the left and right axle clamp bolts •Unscrew the axle nut . •Place a stand under the engine to raise the front wheel
off the ground. •Remove the axle, and pull out the wheel. Take off the
collars and caps from each side of the front hub.
CAUTION
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc
facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place blocks under the wheel so the disc does not
touch the ground.
•Insert a wood wedge between the disc brake pads this
prevents them from being moved out of their proper position,
should the brake lever be squeezed accidentally.
Front Wheel Installation •Apply grease to the seals. •Fit the projection on the cap to the groove on the collar. •Install the caps , collars on the left (longer collar)
and right (shorter collar ) side of the hub. •Insert the axle from right side. •Unbolt the right and left axle clamp bolts temporally. •Tighten the axle nuts •Tighten the left axle clamp bolts.
Torque - Front Axle: 78 N·m (8.0 kgf·m, 58 ft·lb)
Left Axle Clamp Bolts: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5
ft·lb)
NOTE
○Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure
even tightening torque.
if its cuttin out when its hot m8,,thas usually a sign of coil or coils breakin down,, and if it cuts out braking thas a sign of a wire between the tank and headstock is pinchin as the forks dive down on brakin,, make sure theres no open wire covers and bear colours showin, if u still have probs *** bk and il take u threw next step,,
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