I bought a cycle with forward controls, I'm putting the stock pegs back on..and i cant figure out how the rear master cylinder bolts to the stock foot peg? If i could get a picture or a diagram...it would be greatly appreciated. I looked on the internet for days and couldn't find anything. Help me out:)

unbolt the brake lines that join at the side of the master then the 2 bolts going to the firewall between the brake booster and master then pull it out easy as that but to put it back the same method except to bleed the master first to take out the air before installing then bleed all the brakes after installed start from the back to front with the bleeder the farthest from master cyl ex: right rear 1 left rear 2 right front 3 left front 4

1. Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
2. Using a turkey baster, **** out as much of the old dark inky fluid as you can.
3. Clean any sediment out of the reservoir with a clean, lint-free rag. (Do not spill any brake fluid on any painted surfaces, it will remove the paint immediately.)
4. Fill the master cylinder with clean brake fluid.
5. Replace the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Pump the brake pedal several times (15 or more).
7. Using a box wrench that fits the bleeder bolt, loosen the bleeder valves, but leave them closed. (A little penetrating oil drizzled on the bolts the day before will help to loosen them).
8. Using a piece of clear plastic tubing (aquarium tubing works fine), push one end of the tube over the brake bleeder bolt.
9. Put the other end of the tube into a small, clear bottle with an inch or two of clean brake fluid in it. (This will keep air from being sucked back into the brake cylinder.)
10. Put a piece of 1 x 4 lumber or some other "spacer" under the brake pedal to prevent the pedal from traveling too close to the floor.
11. Remove the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
12. Top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid.
13. Replace the top of the master cylinder reservoir.
14. Have your helper sit in the driver's seat and slowly depresses the brake pedal with an even force and hold it down. The helper should shout "down" when the pedal is down as far as it will go.
15. 15Starting with the rear passenger wheel (back right for righthand drive cars), turn the bleeder bolt to the left one quarter-turn. Old fluid and air will go down the tubing into the bottle. When the fluid stops, close the bleeder valve.
16. Shout "up" to your helper, who at this point should remove his foot from the pedal allowing it to move up.
17. Repeat this process until new, clear fluid comes from the bleeder tube. (After every five (5) times the brake pedal is depressed, top off the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid. Never let the reservoir get too low, or air will be sucked into the master cylinder.)
18. Tighten the bleeder bolt.
19. Repeat steps 14 to 17 on the left rear wheel.
20. Repeat steps 14 to 17 on the right front wheel.
21. Repeat steps 14 to 17 on the left front wheel.

Yes there is a nut on the backside of the stud that the peg mounts to. The stud is also the shaft for the rear brake pedal. To get to the nut, take the master cylinder loose and the snap ring that holds the rear brake pedal on or the remove the pin from the brake pedal. Now, take the large nut below the peg and brake pedal shaft off and the other two bolts that hold the front sprocket cover on. Remove the cover and you can get to the nut.

Good Luck
Steve

CHECK BRAKE FLUID FIRST IF ALL IS GOOD. YOUR PROBLEM COULD BE IN THE HYDRALIC CONTROL UNIT OR MASTERCYLINDER AND THE CAB OR CONTROLLER ANTI LOCK BRAKE.THE CAB IS THE BRAIN FOR THE ABS UNIT IT CONTROLS SOLENOIDS TO FRONT AND REAR BRAKES.HAVE ABS BRAKE SYSTEM CODE SCAN FOR A FAULT CODE.

You will need to get all the stock parts back, and just remove the relocation kit and put the original stuff back on.

check the frame foe any cracks or broken welds

Call Seeger Cycle, will can help you 440-353-2667

i do agree with the haynes manual.

First off, pb blaster is your best friend for brake line bolts. You want to **** as much of the brake fluid out of the resivour as you can, Then you need to get the brake lines off the master cylinder that is on there. make sure you use the right size flare nut wrench when you are taking the lines off. rounding off brake line bolts is not fun, trust me. once the lines are off, ( turn counter clockwise) Just make sure you have a towel to put under the brake lines. for excess fluid. then with a ratchet, and extension, and socket you need to take the master off the brake booster. Also disconnect any electrical connectors and keep them clear ofthe brake fluid. When you have the 2 bolts out of the brake booster, the master should pull out and then your ready to work on installing the new one. when you get a new ,master, you can either bench bleed it, or if you want to, you can also install the new one, line up the hole in the brake booster, put the 2 bolts back on, then you need to bleed the master. Most come with instructions.

1. Begin by removing the cap.
2. Follow the directions that come with the kit to select the suitable adapters, and then connect the adapters and tubes to the ports on the cylinder. The other ends of the tube extend down into the master cylinder, and are held in place by a plastic clip.
3. With the bleeder kit installed, fill the master cylinder about halfway with new brake fluid. Use a large screwdriver to depress the valve assembly inside the master cylinder. If you do not have a vise you can mount the master cylinder on the vacuum brake booster and bleed the master cylinder.
4. Small bubbles will appear in the fluid. Continue working the valve assembly until no more bubbles appear. This indicates that the cylinder has been thoroughly bled.

once it is bled then you hook up the brake lines, and bleed all the brakes. starting with the furthest from the master cylinder. Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. make sure you check the brakes to make sure there is no air, better to be safe then sorry. also, check anything you had disconnected, to make sure it is not leaking.

In simple terms, by just looking at it, you can figure out how to do the master cylinder, but to be safe, get a repair manual.

you must remove pulley cover and master cylinder. inside cover is a large nylock nut holding peg mount. once removed a bolt and nut should be replaced in its place as it holds some of master cylinder

Sounds like the gears are stripped. If a bunch of teeth are missing, only the high speed gear will spin the gears fast enough to move the gator forward. I just bought a used one and found it pretty easy to tear apart and diagnose as similar issue. The gear boxes, located inboard of each wheel contain plastic gears and strip relatively easy if the shifter is moved , during motion from forward to reverse.