One day i was comin off the exit ramp downshifted in order to come to the stoplight. I was at a complete stop and put the bike in first gear. The engine revved as i let go of the clutch but there was no forward movement. i released the clutch to make sure the bike was in gear and nothing happened. the engine remained idle so i shifted up to sixth gear. nothing....the bike remained in neutral!! what could it be? bad clutch? Do i need a new transmission? or is it a bent shift fork?

So after some investigating, i found that (1) the chain sprocket was missing the bolt and washer that held it in place, (2) the oil seal on the push rod was missing and (3) there was so much metal dust inside the crank case that its possible that the chain ate the bolt and oil seal. With that being said, my clutch wasnt connecting to the push rod and lost complete power. Any suggestions? So after some investigating, i found that (1) the chain sprocket was missing the bolt and washer that held it in place, (2) the oil seal on the push rod was missing and (3) there was so much metal dust inside the crank case that its possible that the chain ate the bolt and oil seal. With that being said, my clutch wasnt connecting to the push rod and lost complete power. Any suggestions?

The symptoms sounded like clutch chatter. I have seen loose chains come of the front sprocket and break the inner and outer casings before, but a sprocket wandering loose on the output shaft and the chain grinding away at the casings is a first for me. Didn't you hear or feel the grinding? In any event it 's a bummer. Obviously the bolt and washer need to be replaced. The washer is somewhat special in that it has splines that slide onto the shaft and two "holding tabs" that are to be bent downward to the face of the bolt after the bolt is tightened down. That way the bolt can't come loose. I hope there is enough casing to firmly hold a new oil seal and the casing is still serviceable. If you have to replace the casing, be sure to get both upper and lower casings, a matched set. A new set will cost around $800. I don't recommend such a major project to the home mechanic.By the way, is there any metal dust in the transmission oil? Is the push rod chewed up or slightly bent? Pull the rod out and roll it on a flat surface. This will show you if it is bent at all. Check the Ball Screw Housing Assembly for proper operation. That is Yamaha's name for the adjustable clutch actuator that the clutch cable arm attaches to. Go to the Babbitt's website to see the parts. You may be able to get a complete tranny assembly from a salvage yard. Google " motorcycle salvage yamaha " for a source. Best wishes. The symptoms sounded like clutch chatter. I have seen loose chains come of the front sprocket and break the inner and outer casings before, but a sprocket wandering loose on the output shaft and the chain grinding away at the casings is a first for me. Didn't you hear or feel the grinding? In any event it 's a bummer. Obviously the bolt and washer need to be replaced. The washer is somewhat special in that it has splines that slide onto the shaft and two "holding tabs" that are to be bent downward to the face of the bolt after the bolt is tightened down. That way the bolt can't come loose. I hope there is enough casing to firmly hold a new oil seal and the casing is still serviceable. If you have to replace the casing, be sure to get both upper and lower casings, a matched set. A new set will cost around $800. I don't recommend such a major project to the home mechanic.By the way, is there any metal dust in the transmission oil? Is the push rod chewed up or slightly bent? Pull the rod out and roll it on a flat surface. This will show you if it is bent at all. Check the Ball Screw Housing Assembly for proper operation. That is Yamaha's name for the adjustable clutch actuator that the clutch cable arm attaches to. Go to the Babbitt's website to see the parts. You may be able to get a complete tranny assembly from a salvage yard. Google " motorcycle salvage yamaha " for a source. Best wishes.