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That blown fuse is most likely attached to a round thing with two big terminals on the top. That is your starter solenoid, it is possible that, that has failed.
Although it if starts off a jump start then it might be your regulator that is junk and isn't allowing your bike to fully charge your battery.
First of all, when boost starting a bike from a auto make sure the auto is NOT running. The auto battery has more than enough power all by itself.
The most likely is 4) None of the above. The truck's charging system put more than 30 amps into the bike's electrical system and blew the fuse.
Get a new bike battery and fully charge it. Then go from there. If you really want to see if the bike will run before buying a new battery go ahead and hook up the cables to the truck battery and try it with the truck off.
A faulty alternator/regulator/rectifier should have no effect on the bike actually starting or turning over. Only the output of the charging system would be affected, possibly causing the bike to die when the cables are removed. My '78 Honda would not run at all without battery power, not sure if the Kawasaki is the same or not.
Initially, have you checked the 30 Amps main fuse and its holder clips? It would be integrated with the starter relay. The fuse or the fuse holder may have heat related problem(s) causing it to loose conductivity when hot.The fuse may require replacement even if it tests good and/or the fuse holder would need cleaning / crimping. To locate the starter relay (main fuse), follow the battery cable from the + terminal of the battery.
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