Rear turn single wires wear rubing on tire and bike cut off. repaired wires. no fuses were blown, but bike will not start . is there a line fuse some were that i can not find?

If it blew the fuse, I would suggest there is a dead short somewhere. You will have to go through the wiring harness and see if any wires have been damaged or trapped and cut through to the frame of the bike. The frame is negative. The wiring will all be positive. If a bare wire touches the frame, it will blow the fuse.

you may have also blown the starter solanoid fuse as well.

Hi Bob: sounds the repair shop did not follow thru with the repairs. In my shop we solve the problem before the bike leaves. They were on the wright track. Recommend the tire to be removed and pull the wiring down so you can open the sleeve and inspect ALL the wires. you may find bare wires shorting out. Repair them and ride like the wind. Fran PS find a good local shop they will treat you the best.

To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



2. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of three circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.



3. Identify and procure the proper fuse link with butt connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.



4. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:
   
   
   
   
   1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.
   
   
   
   2. Strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the two good fuse links, Then insert two wire ends into one end of a butt connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the butt connector and crimp all three firmly together.
   
   
   
   

Care must be taken when fitting the three fuse links into the butt connector as the internal diameter is a snug fit for three wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutter, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and withstand a pull test.

1. After crimping the butt connector to the three fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the butt connector and crimp very firmly.



2. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a butt connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the butt connector and crimp firmly.



3. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs then insulate with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.

Heat shrink tubing must be slipped over the wire before crimping and soldering the connection.

1. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the two wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with two proper size butt connectors. Solder the connectors and wires, then insulate.



2. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size butt connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair, then insulate.



3. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation.

Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor-don\'t cut or splice\'\'.

When attaching a single No. 16, 17, 18 or 20 gauge fuse link to a heavy gauge wire, always double the stripped wire end of the fuse link before inserting and crimping it into the butt connector for positive wire retention.

I have had the same problem on my RF 900. The problem was a loose fuse in-between the starting switch and starting relay. The fuse is up near the forks on a Yellow and green wire. First check batt voltage, then check kill switch, starter, inline fuse mentioned above then YG feed to Fuel pump. If all good check starter relay 30 amp fuse. If you have no power at Kill switch then check neutral light is on

Fuse "B" has failed due to a shortcircuit when the wires were cut.
There are 6 fuses in the fuse cluster along with the clutch diode.

Insulate or re connect the cables and replace the blown fuse.
Hope this helps.

Look for a fusible link or fuse link off of the starter or a set of fuses or Maxi fuse that is blown in the fuse box.

Fuse Link The fuse link is a short length of special, Hypalon (high temperature) insulated wire, integral with the engine compartment wiring harness and should not be confused with standard wire. It is several wire gauges smaller than the circuit which it protects. Under no circumstances should a fuse link replacement repair be made using a length of standard wire cut from bulk stock or from another wiring harness. To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:

1. Determine which circuit is damaged, its location and the cause of the open fuse link. If the damaged fuse link is one of three fed by a common No. 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, determine the specific affected circuit.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of 3 circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.
4. Identify and procure the proper fuse link and **** connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.
5. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:
   1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.
   2. Strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the 2 good fuse links. Then insert 2 wire ends into one end of a **** connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the **** connector and crimp all three firmly together. NOTE: Care must be taken when fitting the 3 fuse links into the **** connector as the internal diameter is a snug it for 3 wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutters, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and withstand a pull test.
      
   3. After crimping the **** connector to the 3 fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the **** connector and crimp very firmly.
   4. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a **** connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the **** connector and crimp firmly.
   5. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs and insulate with electrical tape.
6. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the 2 wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with 2 proper size **** connectors. Solder the connectors and wires and insulate the tape.
7. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1?2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size **** connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair and insulate with tape.
8. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation. NOTE: Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor: don't cut or splice."
   

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Fuses Fig. 1: Remove the cover from the fuse panel
Fig. 2: Use only the fuses specified for the circuit
Fig. 3: Firewall-mounted fuse box, turn signal and hazard flashers
Fig. 4: Instrument panel-mounted fuse box
On earlier models, the fuse panel is located on the firewall above the driver's left foot. On later models, the fuse panel is located on the underside of the instrument panel, covered with an access door.

check all wiring harnesses where the wires are tight together it sounds like you just have another cut wire that you cant seem to find, and please mention if its the same fuse that keeps blowing or is it a different one every time, and if you find no cut wires then double check all the grounds.

I don't recall ever seeing a fuse for those lights. You may want to simply check under the rear fender where the wires run and make sure they haven't been disconnected somehow. I modified my rear fender a while ago and didn't tuck the wires up high enough. I had a passenger ride on the back and the tire rubbed against the wires and completely shorted out my bike. I just had to resplice the wires and everything worked fine after that.