I want to get the complete wiring diaphragm to avoid grounding of electric...

Assuming this is in the USA there are 3 wires normally in a 240 volt circuit. A black, red and white. Sometimes there is a bare ground wire. The white wire and bare ground wire are basically the same.They connect to the same place in the electrical box. The red and black are your power wires. They would connect top the outside connectors and the white and bare wire (if supplied) would connect to the center connector.

Most vacuum cleaners that are almost or completely plastic on the outside will not have a ground wire because plastic does not conduct electricity and therefore have very little risk of causing you to get shocked from a short.

Whatever part, motor, or electrical load that ground is for will not work. For instance, a motor is an electrical load, put power to it -it won't operate without a path to ground after the load. A lighting bulb is an electrical load. Send power to it. and the bulb won't light, power will not travel through the bulb filament making it bright, without a path to ground after the bulb. Every electrical load has to have a path to ground, or it will not work-the reason for the term "circuit"-every wiring circuit (starting circuit, light circuit, ignition circuit, etc.) begins at the power source and ends at the power source. The ground completes the circuit back to earth (ground), and as you know, all grounds go to metal frame, and thus go back to the battery. If the circuit is not complete, the electrical load will not operate. See?

Poor Earth Grounding
One of the biggest problems with electric gates is poor installation. In particular, many people do not properly ground the gate or fence during installation. Grounding rods must be placed under the gate in order to keep it safe for people and animals. Drier climates require more grounding rods. An improperly ground gate can cost thousands of dollars to repair.
Barbed Wire Fencing
Some farmers have tried to electrify a barbed wire fence, but this is a major safety hazard to animals. Animals can get stuck in barbs whether or not they are electrified, but the added electricity can lead to their death. Barbed wire should be avoided on farms and should never be electrified.
Interference
Occasionally, electric gates may experience technical difficulties due to interference. Local radio, television, or telephone signals or wires can cause the interference for both the media system and the gating system. Such interference can cause the gate to lose its electric charge temporarily. The interference can also cause brief spikes in electricity in the gate, which can be a safety hazard to people or animals.
Insufficient Animal Training
Since electric gates on farms are intended to keep animals in their assigned area, the animals must learn about the consequences of crossing the electric gate. Farmers or property owners must therefore train their animals to avoid the gates. To train the animals, owners must actually expose them to the electric shock. Owners who fail to shock-train their animals may find that their animals become obstinate or may get seriously injured.
Crime Target
Owners who install electric gates at the edge of their property often do so for security. Ironically, the presence of such high-tech gates may signal to would-be robbers that the owners are very rich, making the owners theft targets. Property owners may want to install an alarm system to accompany the electric gate to increase security.

1) In this situation we need to test the wires.
Electricians don't guess, they test, and a diagram would be guessing which wire color does what.

2) FYI: non-GFCI receptacle located in bathroom is not code, and device will have to be replaced when property is sold. The reason for GFCI is the likelihood of you holding defective electrical gizmo from China in one hand while putting other hand in running water. Or electrical gizmo falling into bathtub occupied by wife with large life insurance policy.
If you have kids using that bathroom, I want you to avoid using non-GFCI device.

3) Your new device has color-coded screws: Dark, brass, and silver.
These colors tell electrician how to wire the device.

4) Let's test to see which wire connects to which screw:
Separate wires.
Use ordinary 2-wire tester from hardware store.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. Hot wire connects to dark-colored screw on device.
Hot wire is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires in box, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to silver screw, and will complete circuit to receptacle.
If box does not have a Neutral wire, the circuit to receptacle can be completed using ground wire on silver screw, but I am not recommending that.
Last wire goes to Load (light, fan, motor). Load wire connects to brass screw, and will complete circuit to Load.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixyas phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on electrical device.

Leviton and Lutron both make GFCI switch-outlet combo.
Buy at Home Center or on-line
Leviton 7299
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-7299-NI-15-Amp-125-Volt-Combination/dp/B000UJADW6

1. Fuse amplifier’s power wire at the battery.
   
2. Be sure to fuse the power wire within 12” of the car's battery. This will protect the car's battery in case of a short circuit between the power amplifier and battery. THIS IS A MUST, the amplifier's built-in fuse will only protect the power amplifier not the car's battery.
   
3. Use high-grade wire connectors. Use Proper power wire size for maximum current transfer and safety. Improper size power and ground wire can reduce the amplifiers power and poses a risk of damage to the amplifier and the vehicles electrical system. Please follow the recommended "Amplifiers Power Cable Requirements" to ensure maximum power transfer and safety.
   
4. To ensure maximum power transfer and secure safe connections, it is recommended to use high-grade barrier spades (for connection at amplifier) and terminal rings (for connection at battery).
   
5. Do not run any wires underneath vehicle. Exposed wires have a chance of being cut or damaged. It is best to run all wires through the vehicle under the carpet and/or side panels. This lends to a cleaner installation and less risk of damage.
   
6. Use caution when mounting amplifier. Remember there are many electrical wires, gas lines, vacuum lines, brake lines, as well as a gas tank in the automobile. Make sure you know where they are when mounting the amplifier to avoid puncturing lines, shorting wires, or drilling holes in the gas tank.
   
7. To avoid possibility of induced noise from the car's electrical system (i.e. popping noises or engine noise), Keep signal wires (Speaker or RCA) away from any electrical wires.
   
8. In order to reduce the chance of ground loops (i.e. engine noise); make the grounding wire as short as possible to reduce the wire's resistance. Also, when using multiple components, make sure all units are grounded at the same point.
   
   
9. Avoid sharp edges when running the wires. When laying wiring inside the car, watch for welding burs in channels throughout the car. If necessary adequately grind, finish sand or fill in around any ruff spots so wires will not be punctured by sharp protrusions. Use a grommet to protect the wire when running through the firewall.
   

any more ??'s look up profileuse.com

Therory #1
Electrical short or ground
You might have a wire to the coil for 'kill switch' in the handle assembly that is connected to the Off-On switch and is being pinched by something when you pick the unit up. If you pick it up by the body or base, does it die, or is this only when you pick it up by the handle.

If you pick it up by the handle(only), I suspect a pinched wire:
Therory #1

If you pick it up by the base, I suspect it is fuel related:
thus therory #2

Theroy #2
Fuel starvation - 'lean fuel' condition
Basic things to check:
1) spark plug
2) spark arrestor in muffler
3) fuel lines and tank filter
4) turn adjustment needles out (counterclockwise) 1/4 to 1/2 turn
Chain Saws:
5) check impulse tube and intake boot for cracks or leaks
*if all of the above are OK and/or do not improve performance then:
Remove Carburetor
6) replace gaskets/diaphragms
a) use a spray carb cleaner to clean jets, holes, and body of carb
b) fuel pump diaphragm goes against the carb body,
then the gasket towards the outside
c) metering gasket goes against the carb body,
and the diaphragm goes towards the outside

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

Review this guide as reference; this Electrical Schematic Diagram applies for 1994 Accord Coupe series of model. Here you will find complete explanation about electrical system of the vehicle. Started from Troubleshooting (tips and precautions) on handling the electrical system, in this manual you will be guided step by step examining each electrical component installed and its connection for example in Wire Harness and Ground Location, started from Engine Compartment, wiring harness is shown from engine ground cable, starter cable, and battery ground cable.

These 359 pages of pdf.fieltype manual is divided into some sections which are Wire Color Code, Relay and Control Unit Location, Wire Harness and Ground Location, Air Conditioning System Circuit, Anti-lock Brake System, Battery, Blower Control, Charging System, Cruise Control, Fan Control, Fuel Pump, Fuses, Ground Distribution, Heater Control, Ignition System Control, Lighting System, and etc.
Download the complete 1994 Accord Coupe Electrical Schematic Diagram here.

You can also find complete workshop manual of 1994 Accord Coupe here.

Pass: freepdfmanual.com

Good luck.

If the key itself is hard to move, you need to find out why. Is the momentary contact switch under the key non-functional?
The Momentary Contact Switch is a lot like that used on a computer keyboard, or a computer mouse.

A metal, or plastic case that surrounds an upside down T shaped plastic piece, which pushes down on a thin spring metal 'diaphragm'. The 'diaphragm' is convex shaped, and the curvature goes up.

In the center at the bottom of this switch, is a contact. The metal diaphragm connects to one side of the circuit, and the contact at the bottom connects to the other side of the circuit.

As the metal diaphragm is flattened, and touches the center contact, the circuit is complete.
The convex shaped metal diaphragm then curves back up, (Because it is spring metal), and breaks the circuit, as your finger comes off of the key.
This makes it a Momentary Contact switch.

When the circuit is complete, electricity goes to electronic components, that make That particular sound. (Note)

Perhaps, parts inside that momentary contact switch are broken. They moved at first allowing you to use this switch, but with extra force. Finally the switch broke completely, and is non-functional now.

If the sound itself is diminishing, it is a Capacitor which is the problem. (Electronic keyboard) Just thought I would add this.

From my own knowledge bank.

If you've tried a different cable and it still doesn't work it probably the capsule.The capsule is available for $224.00 .If you send it in for repair it's only $200.00 and they give you a warranty.Contact Telex Communications @ 1 800 553 5992 and talk to a represenative and they will give you the info you need to send it in for repair.