What kind of oil does a 2002 klx 300 r use - 2001 kawasaki KLX 300

Source: kawasaki klx
Fist, Shut off the fuel at the fuel tap. Second, remove the drain screw, and drain any remaining fuel from the float bowl. Reinstall the drain screw. Third, remove the two 8mm mounting bolts from the rear of the carburetor body.
Step 4. Release the clamp, and remove the fuel line from the right side of the carburetor.
Step 5. Remove the spacer from between the carburetor and the intake pipe.

Check that you're getting fuel and spark. Possible restriction in airbox. check for short in kill switch

10W/40

i suggest that you pull the throttle slowly and gently... and if this dosent work theres a problem with your bike .. you may need to change the engine oil or spark plugs..

G'Day b shrum,
You can download a service manual for the bike here, (click on "free user") I checked the link working fine for now at least. Get a copy for yourself while the link is hot.
The Kawasaki shop manual suggest Engine Oil as SE Class SAE viscosity of 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50 Is really a subjective thing, use the oil that suits your riding conditions, and climate. 10w40 for lower temps, 20w50 for hotter heavier duty conditions. Thicker oil protects better, thinner oil makes you go faster :)
I suggest using any good quality synthetic oil engineered for motorcycles. The brands here are endless. Chose what you can afford, but always get good quality oil and change it and the oil filter every 1000 k's
regards robotek

The owners manual says to do the following if you don't want to remove the forks:
*raise the front wheel
*remove the fender, meter cable & unit, headlight, handle bar, fork protectors
*loosen the fork upper clamp bolts
*remove the caps from the top of the fork tube
*fully compress the fork tube so the dust cover touches the bottom and place a stand to hold it
*remove the springs
*set the oil level 68mm (standard) or 60 - 90 mm (adjustable) from the top of the tube

It may be easier to remove the tubes and you could replace the leaky seal at the same time. I did this recently and put in new springs too. It was my first time working on forks. With help from TT members and the service manual it was fairly easy. I didn't buy an oil gauge, seal driver, or spring holder. I used a ruler to measure the oil and a medicine dropper to remove any excess. For a seal driver I used a piece of PVC pipe cut in half then secured around the lower tube to drive the seal. Try a search on replacing fork seals for more info. 5w oil is standard but i have heard that 7 works well Good luck.

Fill to 3/4 full in the glass.

If you are not a mechanic, take it to a shop before you completly destroy your cylinder or case. You most likely have a broken ring, bad valve or loose ring clip, but either way, the reason it is worse at the lower end is because that is where you are putting the most stress on the engine. OR...you could try using higher octane fuel, OR...your running the engine to lean. In any case, you should seek professional help with the issue, because running it with it knocking WILL end in an expensive repair.

The gearbox gets 10w40 motor oil.

Please rate this answer. Thanks afiala93!

if your pilot jet is pluged it will not idle. the pilot jet controls fuel from o-1/8 throttle setting only