How do i get the piston rod off the balance to replace the baren

Hi, it could be your wheels some wheels need balancing or if you loose a weight it puts the wheel off balance some cars have the weights on the inside of the rim. Another fault could be if you hit a pothole it could put a slight buckle in your wheel this would cause a shudder through the car.

You can't go through the bottom because the crankshaft will be in your way as well as the balance shaft assembly. The pan and balance shafts need to be removed in any case so you can disconnect the rod from the crankshaft. But, the cylinder head needs off come off to get the piston out.
Big job and generally you are better off replacing the engine.
I know it's a tough decision but I actually scrapped a 2000 last year that was in otherwise perfect condition rather than be bothered with the aggrivation of doing that job!!! And, I do this for a living!!!

set it to top dead center. there's an access hole to put a 4" or 100mm pin to keep the balance shaft from moving when replacing a timing belt. The other marks are at the cam and crankshaft pulleys.

Or remove #1 cylinder spark plug, put a wooden rod against the piston, when it is at the top of it's travel and goes neither up or down, it is at top dead center. The balance shaft locking pin can then be inserted.

BALANCE SHAFT LOOSE?? CAM CHAIN TENSIONER FAULTY?

any codes would show if sensor bad or going bad a rod knock is internal lower engine problem(connecting rod) rod knock can b bearing -rod-pin -piston harmonic balancer is on crankshaft out side of block if bad usually breaks off or causes heavy vibration

If you need to replace a rod, generally you have a bearing problem that requires crankshaft removal/replacement as well. If you have a bad wrist-pin on the small end of the rod or the rod bent from hydro-lock and bearings are good, you need to remove the oil pan and the cylinder head as the piston/rod assembly comes out from the top.
If you have a spun bearing or broken rod, the entire engine needs to be removed, completely torn down and all passages flushed...far easier to replace engine with a good used one.
To do either, you will need a manual to guide you through the process (far too long to write out here) Sorry I need to tell you this but that's just the way it is...better you know before even attempting to do the job.

Which engine? Just a generic answer is that the damper on the front of the engine may be your problem...Sometimes the outer ring moves on the inner rubber insert. If this happens and you need to establish timing, there still is a way...use a bolt with the exact same thread as your spark plugs have, dress the end so it is rounded on the end.Turn the engine by hand till you can see the piston. Install the bolt into #1 spark plug hole,so it extends into the combustion chamber. Turn the engine by hand till the #1 piston touches it. make a mark on the damper exactly at the "0" mark on the scale.Remove the bolt and turn the engine backwards till the piston is again visible, install bolt again and turn till it touches the bolt again. Make another mark, again at "0".. Remove the bolt. Measure the distance between the two marks you made, divide it exactly in half and this is exact top dead center. Make a mark there and use it to time the engine.
WARNING: Do not turn the engine using the starter, or use any excessive force when turning the engine or you will do damage to either the piston or valves.It is best to install the bolt after you are visually close to top of piston travel (look through plug hole till you see the piston) to avoid valve contact.
You can "save" a pulley with a migrating ring by drilling and tapping
a 1/4" hole 180 degrees apart, through the outer and inner rings
You need to use exactly the same length threaded rod installed into both holes to keep ring from moving again. Use loctite to prevent the rod from working loose.The balancer is balanced...using different length rod will throw off that balance. I cut a scredriver slot into end of rod to aid in installing. Holes must be exactly at 180 to retain balance as well. You may also have the distributor a tooth off, so make sure that's correct as well.
Good luck!

The knocking or ticking is going to determine if it is in the top end, lifters, push-rod or rocker arm issue or the bottom end that would include pistons or bearings.
If it is a ticking noise, it will more than likely be a valve train issue.
If a knocking noise, piston or crankshaft related problem.

Attached is a web site that you can listen to a piston slap which is a known issue for your 4.3.
Listen to the noise and see if it sounds similar to your problem. A piston slap will generally sound as though it is coming from the central area of the engine.
Listen to the recording and let me know.
Regards,

The following are your choices of what the problem could be > >

• pre-ignition, aka 'detonation' and 'engine knock'. Change the spark plugs to one heat range colder than the stock NGK plugs for your bike. Use premium gas not regular. Do an oil change with filter.
• Piston pin rattling around in piston mount or connecting rod. Rare, not found very often.
• Lower end of connecting rod gone bad aka 'rod knocking'.

The pre-ignition is the most likely and the easiest to fix. This assumes the piston is still in usable condition. Drain the gas tank for use in the lawnmower. The piston pin rattling around in piston mount means a new piston and rings. The piston pin rattling around in the connecting rod means a new connecting rod as does a rod knocking. The rod replacement is major surgery.

Please rate this solution. Thanks Bugz!

The harmonic balancer is used to absorb vibrations of the crankshaft due to the up and down force exerted by the pistons and rods.