How to bleed the back berak. Its not working and travels to the bottom and no resistance

OKAY...

No MAKE, MODEL, YEAR or whatever FLOAT
sensor we are talking about... (general terms).

(( first thing to check... the float actually floats )).

"FLOAT" sensors... are TYPICALLY a variable
resistor (potentiometer) in a circuit...
(as the surface of the FLOATABLE liquid rises
the movement/change is registered by physical
movement (a float arm changes the potentiometer).

Again... TYPICALLY... to GROUND.

To test the potentiometer... One need only
ISOLATE the "sensor" electrically from
any other circuits and test for RESISTANCE
at the bottom of the FLOAT's travel...
and again at the TOP of the float travel...

There are no RULES for resistances...
so you will have to start at the HIGH end
of your RESISTANCE (OHMS) SCALE...

and try again at the LOW END.

Finding any smooth scale of resistance.. is
an iterative process (means you repeat the
process until you actually see SOMETHING...

(Over & over... Again & again)

My best
advice would be to find a WORKING FLOAT...
Determine what a WORKING RESISTANCE: looks like.

Use your Ohm Meter to determine if YOUR
FLOAT LEVEL SENSOR is still capable of
varying RESISTANCE in relation to the actual
FLOAT POSITION... (???).

Keep in mind... floats don't ALWAYS float.

Carnac the Magnificent

If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.

For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

Clutch bleeding can be problematic and I have had to resort to removing the slave cylinder but leaving the hydraulic line connected and raising it as far as the flexible pipe will allow. above the master cylinder and bleeding it in mid-air.

Reverse bleeding can be very effective and with a long-travel large capacity cylinder the piston can be pumped out to the limit of its travel and then forced very quickly back in as far as it will go.

Anotther type of reverse bleeding I have been forced to employ a few times is connecting the clutch bleed screw to a nearby brake bleed screw with some very good fitting hose. Both bleeders are opened and the clutch is bled by pumping the brake pedal. An assistant adds fluid to the brake reservoir and removes it from the clutch reservoir.
Four or five vigorous pumps usually does the trick.

Good luck!

Did u bleed slave cylinder? If not you must bleed just like you would bleed breaks.... you need to make sure you fill the master cylinder resvr too before attempting to bleed. If r his doesn't work post back with update.

For one thing, you need to learn how to spell
Beraking? Video off saf? What do you mean in english, not chineze.

Have the bleed valve on the slave cylinder ready to open. When someone slowly depresses the clutch, open bleed valve and let fluid escape. Close valve when clutch is at bottom of travel. Repeat process till fluid comes out in a steady stream.

it sounds like there is still air in the brake system that has not been removed.you don`t say if you replaced the brake pads and shoes(in which case you shouldn`t need to bleed)or you replaced a brake line(s) or wheel cylinder or caliper.you will have to keep bleeding the brakes all 4 wheels(trucks don`t use bi-directional braking meaning right rear brakes with left front and so on).bleed both rear brakes then bleed both front brakes,was this problem there before you replaced the brakes(soft pedal noticed) and this is why you changed the brakes or the pedal was soft and the brakes needed changing.its possible that the master cylinder has an internal leak and may need replacing.

When you stand on the brakes does the pedal feel soft or hard? If soft the chances are you still have air in the system. Tighten (not too much just enough to prevent the escape of brake fluid) all the bleed nipples. Now make sure there is fluid to the maximum in the master brake reservoir. Stand on the brakes to extend all the slave pistons as far as they can go with the current situation. Starting with the the right back (as you correctly did originally) put your finger tip over the end of the nipple and undo it with an open ended spanner by only a quarter of a turn. Have a friend step on the brake pedal. When he has got to the bottom of travel push your finger hard on the nipple tip and tighten the nipple gently with e the spanner. Your friend can now release the brake pedal slowly. Again ask your friend to press on the pedal and then you undo the nipple a quarter of a turn to bleed of the fluid (and bubbles). When your friend reports that the pedal is on the floor, again tighten the bled nipple. Again your friend can only now release the brake pedal slowly. There will come a point when your friend will notice some resistance to the pedal before you slacken the bleed nipple to bleed the fluid. Keep bleeding this brake until a quarter of a pint of fluid has been pushed through and now tighten the bleed nipple firmly. Add fresh brake fluid to the brake reservoir under the hood. Now repeat this process with the back left wheel, then front right and then front left. The important thing is 1) ensure that the brake pedal is never lifted until the bleed nipple is tight otherwise air is sucked in through the nipple; having your finger tip on the end can help avoid this and 2) to ensure that the reservoir is always full of brake fluid so that only fluid can enter the system and not air 3) that you bleed plenty of fluid through the system, when you replace brake lines it is surprising just how many little pockets of air can hide in it. Good luck

HI,

Please reinstall your camera drivers.This should fix the issue.if you still face the same problem the reinstall yahoo messenger.

Let me know the result.

Thank you

All garage doors nowadays have a load-sensitive device, so that, for example, if a child gets in the way, it senses the resistance and goes back up. If the garage door travel is not set correctly, it will continue to try to lower even though it has hit bottom, creating resistance which sends it back up. Check the owner's manual to see how to adjust the travel of the door. It is usually very straightforward.