Dear sir when i raise the accelerator the bike engine switches off but if the accelerator is not raised then the engine is on.

p500 got a built in flash.......just press the switch nearby the flash...or select auto mode.........

This will depend on what sort of stem you have. Most mountain bikes these days use a clamping style stem that simply grips the steerer tube on the fork. Some will have limited adjustment in that they may have a stack of 2 or 3 spacers that you can place either over the stem or below the stem. This does not give much adjustment. On my wife's bike the stem is actually adjustable similair to this: MEC 110mm Adjustable Stem Mountain Equipment Co op
and might be a good option for this bike.

Bikes are fitted with a sidestand switch and clutch switch that work together. If you try to ride off with the sidestand down (switch activated), releasing the clutch activates the clutch switch and cuts the engine out. Pull the clutch in and the engine will start on the button only to cut out again if the sidestand switch is activated and you release the clutch.
A common problem is a dirty sidestand switch that stays activated even when the sidestand is lifted up. This is because it is situated low down, generally under the bike and will get covered in all sorts of road grime, especially in wet weather.
To remedy this get someone to hold the bike upright, enabling you to get on the ground and locate the switch. This can be done by raising and lowering the stand whilst looking all along the length of it paying particular attention to where it pivots and around the spring. My bike (also a Kawasaki) has a "pin" that is pushed in when the stand is down. If it gets cloggeed with road grime it also stays pushed in when the stand is raised and then cuts the engine off when I try to ride away. A good wipe around the switch area and a good dose of WD40 remedies the problem.

throttle position sensor/ Idle air control sensor no good one or both could be bad if you are parked can you press on the gas and the engine raises the rpm's or does it stay the same could also be accelerator cable broke if no raise in engine rpm's revs up

If it is an older bike, you loosen the bolt at the top of the handle bar shaft until it is about 1/2 inch raised. Take a hammer and give it a swift bump and it should drop into the shaft. Hold the front tire between your legs and the handle bar should raise up. Re tighten once every thing is lined up. If the bike has front hand breakes these may need to be adjusted.

unfortunately, your bike uses a threadless stem. meaning you cannot raise it, you must replace it with an adjustable one, or get a stem with a steeper angle.

this solution will take 2 people. with the hood up,engine running and THE EMERGENCY BRAKE ON!!!! place your foot on the brake,while one person is standing at the SIDE of front of car looking at the engine.place car in drive and idle engine up by barely pressing on gas,look for engine to raise up from original position.if the engine raises up,suggest a bad motor mount. if no raise up of engine,suggest you check drive train for a bad midshaft bearing,bad u-joints,front or rear,or possibly a bad transmission mount.thats about it.thank you for choosing fixya.com!

There are a number of ways to raise the handlebar, depends on how old your Sirrus is.

The most common is too replace the stem with one that has a higher rise to it. Take your bike into your local bike shop and have them take a look at your set-up and they can offer specific options depending on how high you want to raise the bars.

NOTE: Depending how high you raise your handlebars you may need to replace your cables and housing to your controls. Also you may have handling issues if you raise the bars too high. If you are raising your bars because your uncomfortable or having pains in the neck or back you should consider getting a bike fitting to make sure you are properly mated to your bicycle.

Hi ,

1. carburetor must be cleaned as a black layered coating would be formed on that
2. Adjust th Knob that is present right under the tank until the RPM shows between 1000 and 1500 in the RPM indicator
3. Leave ur bike for service and as him to clean the air filter .
4. accelerate slowly as it leads to maximum fuel efficiency
5. Don't raise ur bike too much unnecessarly as it spoils the tuning

I'd take it back and tell them what it's doing. It sounds like it's running a bit on the lean side. If it's fuel injected , they should be able to make an adjustment in the mixture. If it's carbureted, they can also make an adjustment. Those "services" are not cheap and if the bike wasn't doing it before, I'd tell them about it.

If you bike is carb equipped, I'd go up one size of the slow speed jet and raise the needle up just a bit. To raise the needle up, get a single "3mm flat washer". This is nothing more than a flat washer for a bolt that is 3mm in diameter. Remove the needle from the carb and slide the washer on from the bottom end. This will raise the needle in your carb by about 0.020", just enough to richen the midrange just a tad. This should cure your "hiccup" problems in a carb equpped bike.

Since you'll have to take the carb off the engine, it would be a good time to get rid of the "anti-tamper" plug over the idle mixture screw. The plug is on the bottom side of the carb just on the backside of the float bowl in a short "tower". Carefully drill a small hole in the plug. Drill just deep enough to go through the plug, that's it. You don't want to damage the screw under the plug. Use a tap to tap the plug and continue on through the plug with the tap pulling the plug out of the hole. With this out, you now have access to the idle mixture screw. You can turn the screw in until it gently bottoms out and then back it back out 3 1/2 turn. Start the engine and let it warm up. Then adjust the screw for the highest and smoothest idle.

Good Luck
Steve