My bike has been sitting for a long time as i have just purchased it and I cleaned the plugs pulled the carbys to bits and cleaned them cleaned the air filter but it won't fire unless the choke is 3/4 on and will not idle at all and the rev's fluctuates while it is idling

pull the carby and clean out all of the jets
the problem most likely is not bad fuel but failing rubber components that is leaving bits of rubber in the carby and pump valves
the rubber in the hoses, primer bulb, pump diaphragm breaks down internally and lodges small particles in the filter and carby and with the age of the motor ( 12 years) now would be a good time to replace all of the rubber
unless you are familiar with the motor and carby I suggest from a safety point of view that you have the carby and work done at a service center for the make of outboard

it sounds like the needle is sticking in the seating area,pull the carby apart agian take the float out and underneath shold be the needle and seat ,if it has a rubber needle end may need to replace if you can not clean it out properly,and check the rubber diagphram on the slide ,you can damage the diagphram buy blowing air into the carby,if that has a rip in it replace the slide cheers

Ha ha .Are you from oz?The needle and seat in the carbies are stuck open.If the bike was ok beforehand and this just happened,there is some **** caught in the n and s.If the bike was sitting for a while,pull the carb off and give it a good clean.1st thing to try is to give the carby a whack.This may unseat any small **** and/or get the n and s to reseat itself.Hope this helps

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak between the carby and the head. Check the O ring that is between the carb and manifold. Replace if it doesn't sit proud of the locating groove.

it seems odd that your coils would play up, usally the they just stop working. You talk of it bogging down? , i would suggest that to be a carby problem, especialy if the bike has sat around for a while. first try to just drain the carbys, as you can do this without removing them, should be a drain screw or plug on the bottom of the carby. Make sure your air filter is clean too!

sounds to me that your coils are getting hot and quiting . replace both coils or do a diagnostic check on each coil to find out wich one is loseing reistance . i repalced both coils on my bike when it did this and it runs great now

Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Clean the air filter. Install a new stock NGK spark plug.

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hello there,, if she ran before u took her off the road m8,, then shez just a bit seized up and needs a bit of movin arround,, heres a few to try out,, the cheap way first,, first u can get her out ,wak in 2 second or 3rd, and just rock her back wards and fowards, a few times just to loosin a few engine bits,,then try and start her,,, if nothin but u do here the click of a solonoid then whilst your hittin the starter button,tap the starter moter with summat heavy,, ideally a copper hammer, a hammer will do ,,dont beat it to death,,just a few thwacks,,the moter just loosening,, if still nuffin,, cross the to terminals of the solonoid with a plastic handled screw driver, itl spark like hell ,but dont panic, either of these will hopefully get her goin,, any probs ,,shout and stage 2 will be needed,, cheers now

it the bike has been sitting for a long period of time. the carb. can gum up. pull the carb. off. clean it up really good. insuring you get all the small ports clean. then try it again.
every dirt bike i've had requires a oil wetted air filter. dont forget about that.

Ignition timing is preset and only very badly worn camchain or valve-train issue would have an effect.

You may have a problem with the floatbowl height.
It is an incremental fix, in that you set it and see how it responds.

The fuel availability is governed by the height of the float levels. This can be adjusted by bending the small brass tab on the float spindle. Try adding more fuel first, or bend tab upwards very slightly. you don't have to remove the carby every time, just loosen the front and back manifold clamps and rotate carby so you can acces float chamber screws. The float pin can be pulled out and tab reset. Don't forget to turn fuel off and have a spill tray ready when undoing floatbowl drainplug each time.
Site below has exploded view of the carby with part names, links to all sections of the bike.
Clean all the jets with a carburetor solvent and check fuel line for perishing. Are inlet manifolds in good condition and not have a chalky feel on the insides, they should be shiny and feel slippery for efficient results.

Goodluck, cheers!

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr650-1995-rses_model13242/partslist/FIG-11.html