I have a problem with de rear brake, if i runing and put de rear brake to stop they closed de pads and not runing again the tire not moving

A TriGlide's rear brakes are quite different from a two-wheeled Ultra, which seems to be what everyone has been talking about. In order to change the pads:
While the bike is on the ground, break the lug nuts loose on both sides. Release the parking brake. Then lift the bike so that the rear tires are far enough off the ground that you can take a rear tire off and get it out from under the fender.
Start with the left rear tire, as it is the furthest away from the master cylinder. With the tire out of the way, you can see the caliper. You'll see a lever on the caliper for the parking brake on the inboard side of the caliper. There is n Ny-Lock type nut on the lever shaft. Remove the nut and lever, and back the bolt out. The bolt is what applies pressure to the caliper piston when you set the parking brake, and if it isn't backed out enough, it will prevent you from pushing the piston sufficiently to put the new pads in.
There are two bolts in the caliper that capture the pads. Remove the bolts and pads. You can use one of the pads and a C-clamp to now push the piston in. Or, you may be able to push the piston in by hand.
While you have the caliper off, there is a bushing on the top and bottom that allows the caliper to self-center as the pads wear. They should move in and out of the caliper housing with a little resistance. It's a good idea to check them, and take them out and clean and lubricate them with a thin coat of anti-sieze and reinstall. If they have a lot of corrosion on them, you may want to replace.
It's also recommended that you bleed the brakes, as the brake fluid has a tendency to absorb moisture over time. As the fluid gets hot, the water will cause bubbles to form, and you'll loose stopping power. (Don't try to bleed the brakes until the pads and caliper have been reinstalled and bolted in over the rotor)
Install the new pads, and reinstall the caliper. The pad kit you bought from H-D should have new bolts to put in the caliper for the parking brake, so replace the bolt, running it in far enough so you feel it contacting the piston. Put the lever back on so that it is resting against the stop on the caliper in the fully released position, and put a new Ny-Lock nut on that should have come in the kit.
Now bleed the brake line. Keep bleeding until clear fluid flows, being sure you don't introduce air into the line.
When everything has been tightened to the proper torque, put the tire and lug nuts back on. Repeat for the right side.
Once you've got everything back together, back off the adjustment on the parking brake lever, and then set the brake. If the brakes don't hold when you push the bike, release the lever and tighten the adjustment. Repeat until the brakes hold the bike. Make sure you tighten the set screw the holds the lever adjustment in position.
You should then be good to go. Be sure to wash down any brake fluid that may have dripped, as it will ruin paint finishes.

You still have air in the line that needs to be bled out. It can take some doing to get it all out. Make sure your bolts and fittings are good, clean and tight.

You're lacking some info about this issue. Who replaced the brake pads? It sounds like they may have been incorrectly installed. Another thing... You say "brake pads" but say nothing about the brake shoes. This leads me to believe that the front pads were changed and the rear brake shoes were not. If you do not know how to change them yourself, go to a reputable place to get them checked. Be specific about your problem and have them check the front rotors and brake pads and the rear brake shoes and the drums. It is quite possible that the rear drums need to be replaced or turned. Drums and rotors are fairly inexpensive so I would consider replacing them BOTH. With a little more info, I'm sure someone here could help more Good luck!

Remove the old Brake Pads

1 Park your car on a level surface. If you have a stick shift car make sure the car is in gear. Do not set the parking brake. Place blocks in front of the front tires so the car does not move while you are working on it.

2 Open the hood of your car and locate the master cylinder. If necessary, remove brake fluid until the level in the container is less than half full. A turkey baster is a good tool for this. Put the brake fluid in the plastic container and dispose of it the way you dispose of motor oil.

3 Raise the rear end of your car with your car jack. Remove the rear tire or wheel assembly.

4 Remove the parking brake cable from the back of the caliper. Use the pliers to remove the cable clip (restraining clip).

5 Use the socket wrench to remove the upper mounting bolt from the caliper. If the upper guide pin moves while you do this, use a back-up wrench to hold the upper guide pin.

6 Rotate the caliper downward, pivoting it on the lower caliper bolt. Remove the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper.

Install the new Brake Pads

1 Turn the caliper piston clockwise to retract it into the caliper housing. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper.

2 Swing the caliper upward and into place. Apply a thin coat of thread locking compound to the bolt and use the socket wrench to tighten the bolt to 271 inch lb. (35 Nm).

3 Reattach the parking brake cable to the caliper.

4 Replace the tire wheel assembly. Lower the car to the ground.

5 Pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the brake pads. Do this before trying to move your car.

6 Add fluid to the master cylinder container to replace any you removed before you removed the old brake pads.

7 Season the brake pads by making only gentle stops when you are driving for the first week after you install the new brake pads. Try not to do any hard stopping when you are seasoning the brakes.

Read more: How to Change the Rear Brake Pads on a VW Beetle ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4507338_change-rear-brake-pads-vw.html#ixzz19NhtfzIk

you have to loosen the emergency brake adjustment on the cable give it some slack push the shoes together by hand and rotor will fit . please dont forget to rate this answer . hope this helps

CHANGING FRONT BRAKE PADS
Jack up the car. Take off your tire. Find the bolt on the back of the caliper and take it off. This should release the caliper, pull the caliper off the disc. Now you should be able to take the pad out. Replace the pad. You'll need a special tool to reset the caliper. As the brakes wear down, the caliper gets tighter so the brakes still work. I'm not sure exactly what its called, but you can borrow one from auto zone. Follow the instructions that come with it to reset the caliper. Slide the caliper back over the disc. If it doesn't go on, you need to reset the caliper more. Put the relese bolt back in. Put your tire back on.Drive slowly and test the brakes.
CHANGING THE REAR BRAKE PADS
The rear brakes on the rx8 are a bit different than most setups...be careful! The only way to move the piston back into the caliper is by way of a special allen head bolt that is directly behind the piston, on the back side of the caliper, installed under a 14mm bolt.
You have to remove this bolt to gain access to the allen head. As you loosen the allen head bolt(counter-clockwise), the piston will move back into the caliper.
Installation is pretty typical, again, the allen head bolt being the unusual part. The manual says to tighten this bolt until the pads contact the rotor, then loosen the bolt 1/3rd of a turn, then reinstall the 14mm bolt.

It sounds like the parking brake return spring has broken or come loose. The only way to know is to pull the wheel and drum and take a look. It sounds like the pads are still closed against the drum and haven't released. Hope this helps.

Things You'll Need:

• New brake pads
• C-clamp
• Allen head, star head, or 6-point socket wrench
• Lug nut wrench
• Brake fluid

Remove the old Brake Pads
1. Step 1 Park your car on a level surface. If you have a stick shift car, make sure the car is in gear. Place blocks in front of the front tires so the car does not move while you are working on it.
   
2. Step 2 Open the hood of your car. Locate the master cylinder and brake fluid container. If necessary, remove brake fluid until the level in the container is less than half full. A turkey baster is a good tool for this. Put the brake fluid in the plastic container and dispose of it the way you dispose of motor oil.
   
3. Step 3 Raise the rear end of your car with your car jack. Remove the rear tire or wheel assembly.
   
4. Step 4 Use the socket wrench to remove the lower caliper bolt from the back of the caliper. Rotate the caliper up.
   
5. Step 5 Remove the brake pads from the caliper.
   
Install the new Brake Pads
6. Step 1 Insert the pads into the caliper.
   
7. Step 2 Place a large C-clamp on the body of the caliper and slowly tighten the clamp evenly. Compress the piston until it is flush with the caliper.
   
8. Step 3 Lower the caliper and use the socket wrench to attach the lower caliper bolt. Tighten the bolt to 16 to 24 ft. lbs. (22 to 32 Nm).
   
9. Step 4 Replace the tire wheel assembly tire. Lower the car to the ground. Pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the brake pads.
   
10. Step 5 Add fluid to the master cylinder container to replace any you removed before you removed the old brake pads.
    
11. Step 6 Season the brake pads by making only gentle stops when you are driving for the first week after you install the new brake pads. Try not to do any hard stopping when you are seasoning the brakes.
    

What do you mean lub'm? You just put brake grease where ever there is friction. Not on the brake shoes or pads, not on the brake drum! I'm assuming you have brake drums on the rear. Just put grease where ever there is metal on metal so the brakes move freely. Keep the grease off the brakes and drum, you can put some grease on the brackets or metal on the brakes but not on the stopping surface of the brake.

it just happenned to me with my ford f-150 1997, turned out to be the rubber hose that was clogged so it couldn't relieve the pressure in the lines....

it should be located on top on the differential if you don't have disc brakes on the back.... but if it is disc brakes you should have a rubber hose on each side....