Some times the thermostat doesn't open wide ,so the motor temperature becomes too hot and motor can be destroy honda st 1300 is it real that british police stops using ST1300

You can test to see if it is the thermostat by running the vehicle allowing the coolant in the engine to become hot. Then squeeze the top radiator hose. You may want to use gloves to protect your hands. If you feel a lot of resistance in the hose in the direction of the engine then it is likely that the thermostat is stuck. To replace the thermostat remove the two bolts that secure the thermostat cover. They are located where the top radiator hose connects to the engine block. You can also verify if it is defective after removal by dropping it in boiling water and seeing if it opens. The correct temperature for it to open is usually written on it. They are not that expensive so it is best to use one from the dealer. Regardless, make sure it is designed to open at the same temperature. The assembly (thermostat/gasket) is number 5 in the image below. Just google part#19301-P8E-A10
coolant thermostat Honda Pilot Honda Pilot Forums

I assume you are talking about your engine temperature gauge reading? I had a problem with my 1996 Caravan thermostat (V6 3L). It can get stuck wide open and never allow the engine to operate at the specified temperature. On my vehicle, the thermostat has a metal tab that would prop the valve wide open if it failed. I think the thought of the designer was better to be stuck open than full closed I guess. Anyway, my vehicle temperature would never reach normal range with it stuck open. For my vehicle it is 195 F. This time of year, it would take a very long time before your engine would reach normal running temperature. The interior heater would also take a long time since the engine is also cooler. If your vehicle is newer it can also cause the engine check light to come on because this would affect the emission control systems and keep your engine in a cold engine mode loop...

Not knowing a lot of details of your situation, I would check:

?· The gauge is working correctly and plugged into the temp sender near the thermostat.

?· You have the correct fluid level (Please be careful checking this)

?· Your heater core and engine radiator not clogged with sediment

?· Flush out your radiator and heater core

?· Replace your engine thermostat with the specified temperature range your vehicle requires (parts store tech can help you obtain the correct one)

Good Luck.

There might be a problem with the bushing of the dryer motor that causes the rotor to become shorted with the magnetic field and that's the reason why it becomes too hot. It is also the reason why the thermostat shuts off the motor when it becomes too hot to avoid overheating. Replace the bushing of your motor.

Make sure the reservoir coolant tank is at 'full'. Start the car from cold and observe. After a couple of minutes when the engine has begun to drop in revs ( the coolant temperature sensor should tell the ECU to begin to shorten the injection cycle as the engine warms) the top of the engine and the coolant passage to the thermostat housing should become warm to the touch. When hot the top rubber hose to the radiator should become warm and then hot as coolant begins to circulate. If the top hose fails to get hot at any time then the thermostat is at fault. If you have electrically driven radiator fans these should now come on. If they fail to come an at all you need to check the coolant temperature sensor, the electrical motor fuses and the motor relay. Lastly check the motor itself (just run a 12v supply to it directly). As the ar continues to idle, with the fans running, the bottom return hose from the radiator to engine should also become warm. If the bottom hose fails to become warm this points to circulation problems. Either the radiator had become clogged with rust sludge and needs an extensive flushing out with a high pressure hose or the pump is not functioning as it should. Quickly check that the interior heater works by asking for 'full heat with fan on full'. If the interior heater works this indicates that the main coolant pump is probably OK. To check the thermostat more thoroughly, remove it from the car and drop it in a pan of near boiling water; the 'stat should pop open. As the pan cools, at 88 degree centigrade or so, the 'stat should pop closed. Failure to observe this tells you the 'stat is a dead and needs to be renewed.

The thermostat will only cause overheating if is not opening - or not opening at the correct temperature. Before replacing it, you may want to rule out some of the other possible causes of overheating: Bent or otherwise obstructed radiator cooling fins, contaminated or insufficient coolant, clogged radiator, incorrect temp gauge reading, inoperative cooling fan, defective radiator cap, etc.
Check the above things, then ask yourself: Does it overheat when riding at highway speeds, or just in slow riding conditions? Is it really overheating? Coolant temps that exceed about 250F is cause for concern. Coolant temperatures which do not exceed 250F while negotiating stop-and-go traffic on a hot summer day are quite acceptable.
If all else appears in good working order, remove the thermostat and place it in a pot of water, over the stove. With a thermometer handy to measure the water temperature, begin heating. You should be able to see the thermostat begin to open by the time the water gets up to 185F - and it should be fully open at 210F. If it fails this basic test, replace it.

yes you sure can. just make sure you drain the old oil well, when the engine is hot. and never mix synthetic and mineral oils.

I really would like some clarification on that.
If your inside gauge seems to read cold for a while and then just goes hot it generally means either the gauge is sticking or much more likely the thermostat is sticking because it is about to go bad. Actually it has gone bad already if it is staying closed. Now most thermostats have a little bypass hole to let air and small amounts of water through to circulate all the time. this allows the hot water to actually reach the thermostat when it is mounted somewhat from the heat source. If that hole becomes plugged it will give the same effect since the entire engine has to get hot before the thermostat can even start opening. Once it starts opening it gets a rush of super hot water that slams it wide open.
If you don't notice any problems with the engine like water boiling over or any other strange behavior then it is likely the actual gauge in the dash sticking or the sensor malfunctioning.
What you want to do is take a laser temp gauge and get a temp reading off the radiator when the engine is reading hot. this will give you an idea whether or not it is lying to you. bring it over and ill lend you mine. ;)

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/

check this site for your manual

If you have used Dyno jet kit I have had a kit come through with smaller main jets than the stock ones causing it to run way to lean.