SOURCE: oil change worries
20w50 will be fine. It just gives you a wider temperature range. For example if 20w40 was acceptable from 0-90F, 20w50 might be acceptable from 0-120F. Nothing to be worried about at all.
SOURCE: Is there a free online manual for a 2000 Yamaha
I have found a sight that has all kind of Q&As and has been very heplful. www.sloneservices.com and go to knowledge base. Hope it helps.
SOURCE: i have a 1991 Yamaha fzr600. My bike starts and
it depends on where it is leaking,if its a rocker cover gasket it would be reasonably inexpensive but if its a head gasket it wont be,check the rocker cover hold down bolts,they have a cup washer and a rubber seal under them,yamaha use them on fj,fz,fzr,xj etc and they do start to leak after a while(the rubber starts to harden with the engine heat),they are about 30c each and are easy to replace
SOURCE: How to check my oil level on 04 Yamaha yzf 600
YZF600R is a carbureted model. OIL: The oil sight glass is a round window, low on the right side. Very hard to try to see when astride the bike, even if you use a mirror on an extension rod. Have a friend hold the bike level,perhaps, while you check. Oil should be sighted after the bike has been sitting for a time after riding. I suggest using a good 10W-40 regular motorcycle oil (Least expensive around here in Boston is to buy Kawasaki by the gallon at Riverside) I found the pesky 1st-to-2nd shift to be more direct with this oil than with synthetic. I had plenty of opportunity to compare the two types. GAS: No reserve, but as noted, there is a low fuel light, in the row of lights that includes the neutral light and the high beam indicator. You ought to be getting over 50 m.p.g., so you can estimate your 'range' from that. I usually fill up again around the 180 mile period. I think I've seen the low fuel light once in 6 years of ownership. OH: I suggest you treat the gas, on a regular basis, with 'marine' Stabil, not the regular stuff. I have had a 'gummy' Yamaha Virago 250 to care for, that I thought would never clear its fuel problems. Last winter ('08-'09) stored it with the marine Stabil in the tank and run for a while to get it into the carbs also. Within a few minutes of running it this spring-actually a couple weeks ago- it smoothed out and has run fine since. I believe this HAS to be as a result of the treatment of the fuel (run through the carbs before the winter storage) with this special Stabil. It was recommended by Carlo at Riverside- I'll have to remember to thank him for the advice. N.B. I always change the fuel (siphon it out, put that Stabil'ed but 'old' stuff into my car tank, refill the bikes with fresh 93 octane) each Spring.
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