1990 rm 250 repair manual. how to set low idle, and kick start lever and spring doesn't spring back up

Don't know if it is water cooled or not, but it sounds like you may have a problem with oil or water getting into the combustion chamber and fouling the spark plugs. Kicking doesn't produce the amount of rpm that you need to fire up a weakly firing plug. I'd check the plugs condition first and replace if needed, and then figure out why its smoking.

It means that unburned fuel collected in the exhaust pipe then ignited when the spark plug fired due to the rotation of the crankshaft. It also means the spark plug is firing and the cylinder is getting gas... too much gas. The engine is flooding out due to much choking of the carb during kick starting.

Sounds normal to me. Keep the choke on slightly until it warms up...As little as needed to
keep it running

Sounds like fuel restriction causing lean mixture. Look for debris in carb float bowl and jets .

2 things
reed valves are worn out
or low compresion

Possibly the choke is getting stuck internally, Even thoug the leaver may be in the closed (normal) position, it may be sticking internally. Try removing the choke and cleaning the passage with some carb cleaner, then replace the lever. The bike could run with a partially cloged choke but would be tough to start when warm due to too much fuel. Another thing to check, when it is hard to start, just after kicking it over a few times, remove the spark plug and see if it is wet with gas. My guess is that's it's soaked. Good luck.

Chances are the float level is set too low.

Call a Honda dealer with the frame number on the bike. They should be able to tell you where the bike was manufactured. The valve settings should be the same no matter where the bike was made. There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting. Below are generic instructions.

• The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
• The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
• The de-compression lever, always used.
• The throttle, used to prime the cylinder, (power valve).

Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm, (Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick.

Put the bike in 3rd, 4th or 5th gear, the higher the better. Sit on the bike, with your hand off the clutch lever, and rock the bike back and forth to rotate the clutch hub. This might free up the lever. You will need to drain the oil and remove the right side casing to see and service the kick starter. If I recall correctly, there is a spring clip that allows the kick gear to engage the clutch hub. The piece could be broken, weak or out of position.

Please rate this answer. Thanks Shay!