How do I fix the nozzle on the fuel Peacock? The nozzle part of the Fuel ****/Peacock that connects to the fuel line to the carbs has come loose. When placed in the position it needs to be in it leaks and is movable. But if i swivel it around it will sit tightly, but still leaks a little.

Sounds like there is a fuel blockage. Check the fuel line into the float chamber.

There is a filter on the lower end of the fuel pump so it don't get particles in the pump from the bottom of the tank. That is if any is in the tank. Normally you will have a fuel filter in the line between the fuel pump and the throttle body or carb. In addition, if a carb is on the car there is a fuel filter where fuel line connects to the carb. You would need to disconnect the fuel line and then take the large nut loose on the carb and the filter is there.

line from nozzle on gas tank to nozzle on bottom of carb

pull fuel line from carb. turn over a few times to see if fuel pump is working.As the motor turns fuel should be pumping, if your gettin fuelinspect carb.If noy gettin fuel backtrack fuel line.

hello sir, my machine will only start when pumping primmer bulb or squirting fluid in the carburetor than stops. the fuel line has broken off, in most small carburetors this is a ongoing problem.old fuel will crystallize when left in tank for a long time.plugging up ports, fuel lines, small screen in carburetor.fuel lines will dissolve clogging carb.this is why it will run when the choke is on creating a vacuum to where there is fuel forced in the carb to rum,also the gas will evaporate leaving the oil behind clogging up carb.the thing to do is remove carb. and clean out,replacing gaskets or fuel line if necessary.use carb cleaner to clean out carb.make sure to make note where fuel line go.the fuel filter broke off of fuel line letting debris get in carb plugging it up.the muffler is known to clog up a lot on these machines where they want run. the compression should be 60 to 120 lbs any thing below 60 is junk. when adjusting the carb screws turn in all the way than turnout 1 1/4 turns turn in slow until machine runs also you need to check for spark by removing plug and grounding against engine to check spark, ok.a new spark plug would be a good ideal too , if you are going to make these repairs use new fuel line and filter,hope this helps,any comments welcome,thank you, !!

There are 2 different enigines on these depending upong your actual unit model number.
One had a Subaru 175 cc engine and the other was a Honda engine. For carb specifics I need the ENGINE model number. Either way... here is what you need to do:
1. Fuel selector off.
2. Remove main fuel line from the carb.
3. Use a spray can lid and check FLOW. It should fill the lid in under 8 seconds. (Feul selector OFF now) If you do not have good fuel flow here you need to inspect the tank exit port, in line fuel filter if used and the sediment bulb under the fuel selector for debris
(GOOD FUEL FLOW NOW)
4. Remove the float bowl by unscrewing the bowl nut from the bottom of the carb. NOTE positon of gaskets as you remove float bowl. Use carb cleaner and direct a spray hopefully with mini extension tube of the carb nozzle into the center of the threaded area of the bowl nut. (This cleans main fuel jet orifice / pin hole) Then spray carb cleaner using mini nozzle extension up the flat side of the float needle until carb cleaner exits the main fuel line connection. Last spray from the main fuel line connection to the float needle (reversed spray)

This usually removes any debris from the float bowl. main fuel jet and main fuel manifold Reinstall the main fuel line.
- Turn on the fuel selector and use the spray paint can lid under the float to catch fuel. It should fill in 8 to 10 seconds to the point your worried about over-flow.
- GENTLY lift the float needle to the level position. FUEL MUST STOP.
- Lower Float to resting position. FUEL MUST FLOW so that it would fill the spray paint can lid in 8 to 10 seconds. (FUEL SLECTOR OFF)

Clean the bowl nut and reinstall the float bowl. Turn on the fuel.. wait 30 seconds for the float bowl to fill completely and start unit. If it runs GREAT... If it only runs with the choke on you still have a fuel supply problem...i.e most likely the main fuel just in the threaded area of the bowl nut is still clogged. .

This should get you going. Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

If old gas sat in the carb. for more than a month it starts to dry up. As it drys up it leaves behind a varnish like film that stops up some very small ports and pin holes inside a motorcycle carburetor. It is also very hard to get out. You can try this. Use a product called Seafoam, get as much gas out of the carb.s as you can. use a turkey baster and force the seafoam into your carb. Take the fuel line loose from the fuel tank and force it into the carb(s). Let that set for say 1 or 2 days. then hook up the fueltank with a mix of good gas and seafoam, (not a lot but enough to start it up. Move the cycle outside as the seafoam will make a lot of smoke if it does start up. If that does not clear up the problem you may have to pull the carb. and remove the blows to clean the inside, I know you said you have already done this but you may have to do it again, and pay attention to very small holes in the up tube . If you have to do that do not DO NOT MESS with any adjustment screws. Just take the carb. bowl off. Do not mix up any internal parts. It is best to work on a large sheet so if you drop a small part you can find it, you do not want to be missing some tiny spring or screw. Hope this Helps Fix Ya Up..

please rate, thanks

Installation

1. Thoroughly clean nozzle bore in cylinder head before reinserting nozzle assembly with Nozzle Seat Cleaner T83T-9527-A. Pay particular attention to seating surface, in order that no small particles of metal or carbon will cause assembly to be cocked or permit blow-by of combustion gases. Blow out particles with compressed air.
   
   
   
   

1. Remove protective cap and install a new copper gasket on nozzle assembly with a small dab of Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA (ESR-M1C159-A) or equivalent. NOTE: Anti-seize compound or equivalent should be used on nozzle threads to aid installation and future removal.
   CAUTION: Be careful that nozzle tip does not strike against recess wall.
   

1. Install nozzle assembly into cylinder head nozzle bore.

1. Tighten nozzle assembly to 47 Nm (35 ft-lb).

1. Remove protective caps from nozzle assemblies and fuel lines.

1. Install leak-off tees and lines as an assembly by lowering onto nozzles. Connect clip and hose to fuel return elbow at pump. Install line to retaining clamps. NOTE: Install two new O-ring seals for each fuel return tee.
   

1. Connect high pressure fuel line(s) and tighten to specification using Fuel Line Nut Wrench T83T-9396-A.

1. Start engine.

1. If necessary, purge high-pressure fuel lines of air by loosening connector one-half to one turn and cranking engine until bubble-free fuel flows from connection. WARNING: KEEP EYES AND HANDS AWAY FROM FUEL SPRAY. FUEL SPRAYING FROM PARTIALLY OPENED CONNECTION UNDER HIGH PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE THE SKIN AND CAUSE INFECTION. MEDICAL ATTENTION SHOULD BE PROVIDED IMMEDIATELY IN THE EVENT OF SKIN PENETRATION.
   

1. Check for fuel leakage at high-pressure connections.

two things. could be that peacock is plugged or there is sometimes a vacumm on the peacock coming from the carbs that sucks the peacock open allowing fuel to flow from the tank. if that hose has a hole in it it will not open the peacock. hope this helps.