I have a zxr750 1994 ,the problem being the the clutch engages within 10mm of releasing the clutch lever,being hydraulic I have bled the system several times to no avail,the clutch does not slip but makes going down through the gears very difficult.My question is would it be the a worn pushrod end caps,or a slave cylinder problem,and where would I start.

if its a cable clutch it needs adjusted either at the pedal, the fork underneath or both(unless the cable is stretched) in some cases you can shim it with washers on the adjuster shaft..if its hydraulic.. the cylinder under the car need s bled out to remove air bubbles..similar to bleeding the brakes..

Maybe the clutch master cylinder is not building hydraulic pressure? The internal seals in it may not be holding. Watch the slave cylinder push the clutch lever while someone presses the clutch pedal. If travel is not enough and was bled properly, you may need a new master cylinder.

Back wheels often move when the lever is pulled in...this is due to hydraulic drag caused by the oil on the clutch plates and is totally normal. You should be able to stop the wheel by hand with the lever in.
With the lever out the clutch is fully engaged and the engine will therefore stall with the brake on...
As long as the wheel rotation can be stopped by hand with the clutch pulled in it's behaving normally...
Rocking the bike in gear is a method that's used to seperate the plates on a clutch that is dragging...usually if it's not been used for a while.

Hello
A new clucth will slip a little at first. Its recommended to try to make the clucthes slip.
i just put in a set that instructed me to make the clutches slip.
A brand new set of clutches needs to seat and it will take a few times riding it before it does.

If they continue to slips after a few rides then you should have your master cylinder bled.
If the clutches are not engaging all the way, the clucthes will slip and motor revs but bike dont move.
if the clucthes are not disengaging all the way, the clutches drag, and the bike will edge forward because the clucthes are not disengaing from the motor.

Thats a pretty simple set up, hydraulic just needs to be bled all the way in the same manner you bleed a brake caliper.
once bled there is no adjustment and the clutches should disengage and engage within the first 1/2 inch of pulling in the lever.

Hope that helps, and don't worry about your new clucthes, they will slipp a little but will go away.
i'm sure of it.
Best Regards
Big Al

If I recall correctly, this model is equipped with a hydraulically actuated clutch (it has a clutch fluid reservoir on the handlebars instead of a clutch cable).
If your hydraulic clutch is not building enough pressure to release the clutch, it might just need to have the fluid flushed out, and the system bled. If that does not remedy the situation, the master cylinder, slave cylinder and hydraulic lines would need to be inspected.

can you see leaking hydraulic fluid anywhere? The principle is very simple The master cylinder behaves like a syringe. You press the clutch pedal and fluid is forced by the master cylinder plunger to the slave cylinder mounted on the side of the gear box. The slave cylinder is like a syringe in reverse so that the fluid pushed into it from the master cylinder causes the plunger to extend into the clutch/flywheel bell housing and engage with the end of the clutch bearing release lever. The slave cylinder has a bleed screw on the top of it to release any air that has got into the system. Ensure that reservoir is full and ensure that a sheet of polythene has not been left under the screwed on cap: sometimes done to prevent excessive fluid loss whilst working on hydraulic systems. Make sure that the hydraulic unions at the master and slave cylinders are nice and tight. make sure all bled points are similarly tight. The only possible remaining places for air ingress (and by default fluid egress) are the cylinder fluid seals on the pistons... get under and look for leaks when you can get a colleague to pump the clutch repeatedly

air in the hydraulic control system of the clutch release is the most likely cause here, have the clutch bled of air, that should cure the problem.

If replacing master or slave, bench bleed the new unit prior to installation.

If just bleeding air out after routine service, apply lever a few times, hold in squeezed position, and open bleeder valve to release air/fluid for a second or two. Close bleeder before releasing clutch lever, or else air will be sucked in, not bled out. Start bleeding closest to the reservoir, working down through each connection or bleeder vavle, finally bleeding the last air out of lowest point near clutch slave. It's just like bleeding hydraulic brakes, except completion can be Much more time-consuming. If necessary, apply slight vacuum to lowest (opened) bleeder, while keeping res. full of fluid.

Once fluid flows or drips with no air present, your sys. is bled. CLose bleeder, and top off fluid. Let me know if these notes are not clear, or if you have additional questions. Thanks, TT

hi from uk could you please give a little more info ? what make/model car ? has this problem occured suddenly? has car been layed up off road some time prior to this unable to select gears ? this problem sounds very much like the clutch drive plate is either stuck to flywheel hence question above ? or it is sticking on primary/spigot shaft for some reason and failing to disengage drive to g/box? how does clutch pedal feel ? you might try selecting 2nd gear with clutch fully pressed and h/brake on then try starting engine if engine starts ?runs then put slight revs on and slip clutch a few times this may work if plate is sticking? if you come back with update may be able to advise further

Bleed your slave cylinder on the sprocket cover and refill the hydraulic fluid. If you have any leaks you will get air in the system and it will not fully disengage the clutch. As for the 750, they have cable clutches and you just need to adjust the slack of the cable.