Bought a 2002, 750 gsxr, rode it for an hour, then the bike just stalled at a red light, charged it and the same thing happened after riding a while, is the battery not being fully charged by the bike?

If it's 54 outside and the fan is not running because the cold air is passing through the radiator and the coolant is doing it's job. Then you come up on a red light and basically all of the sudden that 54 degree wind chill has somewhat stopped (because 54 degrees outside and going 50 mile per hour creates quite a wind chill) the engine will heat up, cause the thermostat to open allowing the fluid to flow through the system. Now the fan kicks in at 220 degrees and begins to cool everything back down or you start riding and the wind cools it back down again...........I hope this helps a little. My bike heats up quickly too especially after riding for awhile and then stopping at a red light. I flush my coolant system yearly before the winter. It's generally recommended every 2 years.Ref: https://www.gixxer.com/forums/80-06-07-gsx-r600-750/294175-rapid-heating-idle.html

Have you checked the side stand switch it could be covered with sticky chain lube thus not letting you start the bike?

it may be your recterfier,same thing happen to me and replace my recterfiler and problem solve

hav the charging system inspected-it may be a failin alternator too--make sure batt cables are tite--buy a clymer manual and learn maintenance

Seems you are running entirely off your battery.
Indications are a suspect lighting or source coil is shorting. Resistance test will show discrepancies. Data is available on-line, search technical/electrical manuals from Clymer or Haynes. An auto shop sells cheap multi-meters than you can use. It is a stationary test and will identify individual component problems. As rectifier/regulator, cdi box and wiring/switches/connections all have an effect. These test are outlined within these publications. Cheers (and don't get caught)

Yes the brakes will work if the bike does so you can take a breath of relief because there is no brake booster it is just hydraulic pressure from the hand and foot switch. What i think may be happening with this bike is a faulty regulator rectifier. This will cause the battery to die with the key off AND it will also cause the battery not to charge correctly when the bike is running. It may hold a charge but will not charge further. What this unit will do is keep the voltage consistent from the alternator charge.

i know this sounds silly ,but when you bought the battery had it been activated,new batterys are critical in their first charge and you cannot use a standare type automotve charger,if bought dry the battery needs to have the acid filled ,left to sit for at least 2 hours prior to charging,once it has sat for the 2 hrs with the acid in,the new battery will need to be charged with a "cteck"or similar type charger for at least 13 hrs before it can be put into normal service,what happened with yours i think is that sure you gave it a charge but it has only recieved a "surface charge"and will be usable for a very short time,it may recover for a brief period and go again untill the surface charge dissipates,(or in other words ..runs out of charge)best thing you can do with the battery is take it to a auto electrician and have the battery cycled and conditioned,this is not expensive to do and will give you piece of mind,after conditioning the battery shouldngive excellent service,i have the battery in my goldwing coditioned about every 12 months and i have the same battery that was in the bike when i bought the bike 8 years ago and still no electrical or battery problems(costs about $25 to get it done)once a year but that beats $280 for a new one...hope this helps

sounds like the throttle cables need to be looked over .( he get everything back to where it was before the lubing?)as one may be out of sync with the other. the oil change has NOTHING to do with the sputtering and surging ,stall .it would only apply if the clutch was slipping and that would make the bike rev with the car oil.

came out of the coffee shop went to start the bike and the battery didn't have enough power to turn over the motor....I pushed started it but it didn't want to stay running once I put it in gear. Last night charged the battery and today put it in the bike and it started right up....rode it for about 45 minutes waited for about half an hour before starting it up again and it started , no problem. I am thinking that maybe it is the voltage regulator or maybe the alternator....can anyone help me out with this? ,If you have a multimeter, you need to test the electrical output of the charging system. (Check the voltage of the battery when the bike is revving at about 2000 rpm) If you don't have a multimeter, the best thing to do probably is to take the bike to an Autozone or similar car place where they will test the battery and charging system for free,,,

Not sure if this will help... however an altmeter will allow you to test along your electrics for any faults. You can check at the lights for example and throught the system.