I"m looking for a wirimg diagram for a custom aplication for a 1997 softail motor w/ electronic points placed into a ridgid frame useing a dyna coil.

Google the item. All information should be available on line

Buy a shop service manual from HD

I have installed this system once on an FLHR, on Softails it may be a bit tricky to find space, so here are some ideas I would use:

1. Under the seat between the rear fender and frame.
2. Under the seat somewhere beteen the battery and box, or frame.
3. If you look at the plastic cover between the rear tire and fender, if you remove this plastic cover, this is where your TSSM is, you may have room there.

You are limited by space on a softail, you may also look at fabricating a special box on the frame, in front, normally between the fender and frame, to put all this. This can be tricky but, I know you will figure it out.

Hope this helps even a little.

The reason your Dyna feels quicker and smoother than the Softail is because it is. The Dyna series bikes are much lighter than the Softail series making the quicker through the gears. Take a look at the specs and you'll see this. As for smoother, the Dyna has a rubber mounted engine and a softer suspension than the Softail which makes it feel smoother than the counter-balanced Softail. The Softail is built for the look of the rigid frame bikes of old. But, the fuel pack probably would improve the performance of the Softail just as it did your Dyna.

Good Luck
Steve

That sounds right to me. Once you have fitted the dyna coils, check the bike runs before fitting any electronic ignition. Many people are quick to throw away the points and condensors, but if you are not covering high milage every year is it really needed? If an electronic ignition fails, you are stuck. Points can be cleaned up and reset at the side of the road and are far cheaper to replace.

Your 1997 Softail is not supposed to have points. Harley changed over to electronic ignition in 1979 on the Big Twins. But, if you do have points, set them at 0.018-0.020".

Good Luck!
Steve

Suspension The independent front suspension (IFS) system is composed of a two-piece front driving axle, two front coil springs (5310) and two radius arms. The front driving axle consists of two independent axle arms. One end of each axle arm is anchored to the frame (5005). The other end of each axle arm is supported by the front coil springs and radius arm.

Front Suspension

I haven't had this happen before but after looking at the parts diagram for your sander it looks as if a short has been created in the coils of the electric motor.
The sander is designed with a fan physically attached to the motor to assist in blowing out dust residue either into the dust bag or into a dust vac. Although adapters are sold to decrease the diameter on dust collection systems tubing i would guess that the total CFM's far exceed what Ridgid expected during engineering. The adapter port was most likely intended to be plugged into a small 5 to 10 gallon shop vac which won't generate the 650 and up CFM's that most dust collection units have.
So when the motor was attached to the dust collection unit the suction was probably turning the motor past what the electrical current was intending the motor to do, thus creating a short.
As for the fix. You can go through ridgid.com and get a replacement motor, or have the motor rewound and repaired by a specialist.
I would either leave the fan off of the motor shaft if you want to connect directly to the dust collection unit, not attach directly to the tool, or drill several large holes in the adapter to allow the cfm's to bring in air from around the tool as well as through the motor casing.

The fork oil is a very specific job needing a manual and a special tool, I don't want to insult anyones mechanical knowledge but if you have never done it before, best to take somewhere else. Engine oil on the other hand is easy, the drain tube to any softail is on the right side by where the frame meets the swing arm, has somekind of plug in it. Start and run bike for a little while, long enough to get it warm but not hot. Remove fill plug and then remove plug in drain line. Using a peice of cardboard or something put in between filter and frame , directing the oil to your drain pan instead of where ever it goes. Put 1 qt oil back in (after everything is reinstalled) start the bike and make sure the oil light goes out, when it does shut bike off and fill to the point that when it is standing upright you get a little oil on the tip of your finger, over filling may result in loss of oil cap from pressure (been there)

basic diagram, from ign switch through the run/stop switch to the bottom term of the ign coil. Terminal on top of ign coil goes to ignition circuit breaker (used to be points and condensor, you would have solid state magnetic pickup) in nose cone, right side of engine below push rod tubes.