Question about 1989 kawasaki ZX 10

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1989 Kawasaki ZX 10 how to bleed the brakes

ZX1000 89 B1 NINJA REAR BRAKE RES HAS FLUID 2 MASTER CYLINDER 2 BRAKE PIPE 2 CALIPER AIR COMES FROM BLEED ******* ALL GOOD BUT STILL NO BRAKE @

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  • kawasaki Master
  • 55,816 Answers

Hi, Halfload for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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Posted on Sep 17, 2018

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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tellme2
  • 137 Answers

SOURCE: rear brake problem zxr750

hey there,, just gonna guess that u are tryin to bleed the caliper with it on the wheel already,,if u are m8 then itl take ages to pressure up,, im takin it that the caliper has never been split appart b4,, so any way,,take the caliper off the wheel ,but still leave it connected to the brake line,,take pads out to, and just place a pad in between the to pistons,,fill up the resevoir with fluid,, leave the cap off and just put the rubber cap in ,,start pumpin the foot brake,u should see the pistons moving,,keep pumpin till the pistons are a fair way in,, then if u have some put some copper grease on the pistons, then prize them back in,,then replace the pads then pump the foot brake again,just to check,its all moving,, put caliper bk on the wheel ,then bleed as normal,, gettin all air bubbles out,, ,hope that all makes sense m8,, any probs ,,shout and stage 2 story il tell yuh,, cheers now

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

  • 47 Answers

SOURCE: On my 1986 GPZ600 the rear brake siezes up when I use it.

Sounds like you need to service the caliper. Remove the piston from the caliper by pumping the brake pedal, be warned you will get brake fluid everywhere. Remove piston seals, dust and oil, you'll probably find that the grooves where they usually reside are full of 'crud' thoroughly clean the grooves, clean the seals then inspect seals for damage and replace if necessary, grease seals (high temp grease) and put back into caliper, wipe away excess grease. Inspect piston for corrosion, minor corrosion can be flatted back with 1200 grit sandpaper, if too badly corroded replace. lightly grease piston (high temp grease) and push into caliper. the piston should slide in easily by hand. Finally bleed caliper well, flush new fluid through entire system.

Posted on Mar 24, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for that input, I never contemplated about the crud and corrosion affecting the seals and preventing the brake pistons from moving freely. "

  • 58 Answers

SOURCE: Spongy Front brakes, braided hoses fitted direct

try using a line locker close to master cyclinder ,lever should go rock hard if it has no air in system,work line locker down lines to see if lever stays hard.
also check the lever travel to make sure that lever is pushing on master cyclinder plunger as a lot of after market levers dont have correct casting and have to travel in a long way before brakes work even when system is bled. also check to make sure calliper carriers are not bent and pads not sitting square on rotors.
hope this helps

Posted on Jun 24, 2010

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2 Answers

Brake system failure


I think brake proportional Valve (or Brake pressure regulator) which usually a part of Master cylinder is suspicious.
It regulates pressure to Front and Rear brake line.

If I were you, I try to draw air from Master-cylinder side (not Caliper side).
(Bleed from connector between Master-cylinder and pipe, same way as caliper. someone keep pushing brake then you lose connector then tight. Don't forget to put towel under master cylinder to catch brake fluid)
If air trapped in Proportional valve (pressure regulator), pressure won't relay to rear brake line but only front side.
Front has two separate line from master cylinder (right and left) but rear goes in one line from master cylinder then separate at rear.

Did you noticed both rear brake dragged when it's hot day ?
Because when air get hot, air expand and pushes to caliper and drag but not respond to your pedal.
(calipers don't respond when you push pedal, but it's pushes calipers by itself even you are not pushing pedal, when it's hot because air expand)
Sometimes, seal get old and lose pressure for only one side (front or rear).

if this happened after you did brake job, or you notice your brake was vapor locked (too much brake on hot day then brake fluid boiled), maybe air bleed and whole fluid change may solve.
if you didn't have any unusual activity but it gradually losing pressure to rear, I suspect master cylinder (proportional valve seal).

Sorry I don't have exact e46 master cylinder diagram but basic diagram, hope you can understand what I am talking about.
Picture shows "leak" but this case "Air" in somewhere in pink.
or lose seal on rear piston.

25989474-goldldc3aki35lcvobofcxjr-2-0.gif

Dec 02, 2015 | Halonet 99-05 BMW E46 3-SERIES 2/4/5DR,...

1 Answer

Rear brake fails ,when mashed ,there is NO brake...


Find your rear brake master cylinder. The find the metal line that comes out of the rear of the master cylinder. Follow this line all the way back to your rear brake caliper. Look for broken lines or leaks. Check your rear brake master cylinder reservoir to make sure you have brake fluid in it. Fill the reservoir with the recommended type of fluid. The proper type of fluid is printed on the top cover for the reservoir. Never mix the different types of brake fluid, they are not compatible. Once you fill the reservoir, you must bleed the brakes.

To bleed the brakes, you perform the following steps in this exact order. First, slowly depress and release the rear brake pedal a few times. Then, press the rear brake pedal and hold it. Open the bleeder valve on the caliper and allow all air or brake fluid to escape. Close the bleeder valve. Release the brake pedal and again depress and hold it down. Open the bleeder and allow the air and fluid to bleed out. Close the bleeder valves. Release the brake pedal. Check the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir. Do not allow the reservoir to run dry. If you still don't have a good brake pedal, continue to bleed the brakes until you get brake fluid with no air bubbles in it.

If after you have thoroughly bled the brakes you cannot get a pedal, you either have a mechanical problem with the brake pedal or the master cylinder needs rebuilding.

Good Luck
Steve

Feb 08, 2011 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King...

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Brake fluid is not coming out when i open the bleeder at the rear wheel on 89 ford tempo


Good day Robert W73, there should be a metal pipe leading from the master cyclinder to the rear wheels and to the front wheels. Try loosening the pipe on the master cylinder and pump the brakes. It might be that there is an air lock in the master cylinder. By loosening this pipe the air forsing the brake fluid back will be released. As soon as the clean brake fluid comes out of the pipe tighten the pipe again and pump the brakes. Then step on the brake pedal and hold it in, while the brake pedal is depressed open the bleeding nipple and close it again. Repeat this procedure till you have clean brake fluid comming out of the bleeding nipple. Just remember to bleed all the wheels starting at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and working your way to the closest wheel.

I hope this helps. If it does not help you might need to replace the seals on the inside of the master cylinder or you will have to replace the master cylinder itself as there might be pit marks on the inside causing the hydraulic fluid to bypass the seals.

Nov 30, 2010 | 1989 Ford Tempo

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 2002 toyota sienna


Here is the procedure from the service manual. I would add just one thing. Do each wheel in this order

  1. right rear wheel
  2. left rear wheel
  3. right front wheel
  4. left front wheel
BLEEDING

HINT: If any work is done on the brake system or if air in the brake lines is suspected, bleed the air from the system.

NOTICE: Do not let brake fluid remain on a painted surface. Wash it off immediately.


a)FILL BRAKE RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID Fluid:SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3

b)BLEED MASTER CYLINDER HINT: If the master cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder.

c)Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder. SST 09023-00100 Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.

Block off the outlet plug with your finger and release the brake pedal.
Repeat (b) and (c) 3 or 4 times.


BLEED BRAKE LINE

1. Connect the vinyl tube to the caliper or wheel cylinder bleeder plug.
2. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
3. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal. Torque: (Bleeder plug) Front brake caliper
: 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.) Rear wheel cylinder: 8.5 Nm (87 kgf-cm, 75 inch lbs.)
4. Repeat (b) and (c) until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
5. Repeat the above procedure to bleed the air out of the brake line for each wheel.

CHECK FLUID LEVEL IN RESERVOIR Check the fluid level and add fluid if necessary. Fluid: SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3

Jun 25, 2010 | 2002 Toyota Sienna

1 Answer

Zx9r b1 not much leaver on front brake fitted new seales pads have bled both sides also reverse blead then syphon blead both at same time leaver still soft any poblems with this model ?


hi,this might help,this is a fairly common problem,locate the bolt that holds the brake line onto the master cylinder,pump the lever 3 or 4 times,crack the bolt and bleed the air out of the master cylinder,you may have to do it a couple of times to get all the air out,it takes very little air to create a problem..put a rag or something down so as not to spill fluid onto your paint,brake fluid just loves paint..hope this helps...cheers

Apr 02, 2010 | 1994 kawasaki ZX-9R Ninja

1 Answer

I am having problems finding a peddle after replacing the rear brake caliper any tips?There is no pressure at the caliper end of the brake line. I have checked the master cylinder and it is pumping...


it sounds like the brake pipe is blocked up with dirt or somthing,,,take the brake pipe off the rear caliper and stamp on the foot brake peddle if no fluid comes out there is the problem,,,it may be an air lock or just a blockage like you may have twisted the pipe closed doing it up to tightly? or only using one spanner insted of two!!!! if you have closed the pipe up, it would be safer to replace the pipe,,, before it blows out on you! also when you do finaly get brake fludid to the rear caliper,, press the pistons right into the caliper before bleeding the alr out then finaly pump up the brakes,,, dont bleed the brakes to slowly or the air will run back up the pipe,,,,undo the bleed nippel put your finger over the end of it and pump the foot brake about once every second till all the air is out then nip up the nippel,i hope this helps you out

Nov 10, 2009 | 1984 Moto Guzzi Le mans III

1 Answer

Changed rear brake pads. Now, pedal never delivers enough fluid pressure to caliper to brake. What's going on? Could I have damaged master cylinder or caliper when I "C" clamped the piston back in?


you need to bleed the brake, attach a hose into a small can of brake fluid, the other end to caliper bleed valve (5/16), its covered with a little rubber boot on the caliper. pump brake pedal, hold it down, open the valve ( turn left) flluid and air comes out, then close valve.repeat untill no more air comes out and brake pedal becomes stiff, about 10 times

Jul 12, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

2 Answers

I need to know how to bleed the brakes on a 1999 chevy blazer


Start from right rear, then, left rear, right front, left front. Fill master cylinder. Have helper sit in car, have helper hold brake pedal down. open bleed screw. fluid and air comes out. close screw. release brake pedal. Continue until no air comes out. Move to next wheel. Keep an eye on master cylinder fluid level after each wheel.

Mar 27, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

2 Answers

Bleeding abs brakes


Try using a pressure bleeder. It will force the air out. Works every time.

Nov 08, 2008 | 2001 Ford Mustang

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