ABS warning light until bike is put in gear and going forward.

A Sticky clutch springs to mind in that scenario.

Engine off
Put bike in 1st gear
Pull the clutch in

Can you push the bike forwards?

You can also try running the bike on tick over until the bike is fully warmed up to heat the clutch plates.

If the ABS has a problem , the transmission will not work properly

The clicking noise could be related to the bigger problem with the abs/vsc actuator, this is a kind of common problem on the prius models, the actuator should be replaced, this is a very expensive part (around $2000) for the part only, while the warning light is on the traction control and abs are disabled, it will still brake normally.

The neutral light won't stay on because the gearbox isn't in neutral. try rocking the bike backwards and forwards, kick the gears down as many time as you can (at least 6) and then try moving the gear lever up one until the bike moves freely backwards and forwards. Your bike should then start. It would be easier to identify any problems if you let us know the make and model of the bike.

I had a 2001 silverado 2500 h.d. with the same problems. I took it to a gear head and he found that the emergency brake cable was loose causing it to trigger the warning light on the dash. As far as the low fuel guage I took it back to the gear head and he found that the float in the gas tank was broken causing the low fuel light to come on. The float wasnt a big deal until I lost track of mileage and ran the tank dry.

With bike not running, rock the bike backwards and forwards and shift through all the gears. If it shifts all the way to fifth gear and back down, then the problem is not in the transmission. If you can't shift the transmission into any gear with the bike not running, just rocking it backwards and forwards, then you've got a problem with the transmission or the shift lever mechanism.

If it does shift but you still can't get it into gear something is strange. I've seen a clutch that the plates were locked together from sitting up, but it still would shift into gear. Of course, when it did shift into first gear, the bike would lurch forward and kill the engine. In this case, we had to disassemble the clutch pack and free the plates up. If you've had a new clutch put in the bike, it could simply need an adjustment. But, usually a new clutch will have a tendency to wear in and start to slip rather than drag. When a clutch causes the bike to lurch when put into gear or become difficult to find neutral with the engine running, it's dragging. I'd check the entire clutch adjustment to start with.

Slide the rubber boot on the clutch cable up, break the lock nut loose and turn the adjuster to make the cable as short as possible. Take the derby cover off the primary to gain access to the clutch release adjuster bolt. Break the large locknut loose, adjust the center bolt inward until you feel resistance. Back the screw back out and back in until you feel resistance again several times. You want to just take the slack out of the adjustment, not start to open the clutch up. Once you've turned the bolt in and feel the resistance, back the bolt back out 1/2 to 1 complete turn. Hold the bolt in this position and lock the lock nut again. Now, adjust the clutch cable back out until you get a freeplay of about an 1/8 inch at the lever. The clutch should be adjusted well enough to release at this point. If it doesn't, the clutch plates are probably stuck.

If the clutch plates are stuck, rock the bike back and forth and shift the bike into fourth or fifth gear. Now, while holding the clutch lever in, push the bike backwards and forwards far enough to "bump" the clutch. This may break the bond between the plates and free it up. If not, you'll have to disassemble the clutch in order to free it up. Good Luck.

i think that is normal. as you say,it is a warning light. If everything is ok it should not light up. Should light if trouble is detected. Always lights up when stsarting vehicle,just like car.

Adjust the clutch cable to allow about 1/4" free play at the end of the clutch handle. Don't put the bike in gear until the rpms are near idle speed. The clutch is working fine if the bike does not lurch forward when going into gear at idle speed. Dirty, gritty oil in the gearbox can make the clutch grab. Consider changing oil if grabbing is the problem. The "crunch" you hear is the slider gear engaging into the driven gear. The higher the engine speed when being put into gear the louder the crunch. The slider gear engaging "dogs" can break. Crunching into gear is hard on the gears.

Post a comment to let me know how you come out on this.