There is too much downward play (slack) in the rear brake pedal before the brakes engage. Is there a way to adjust that? There is sufficient pad left. All fluid levels are correct and the fluid is fresh. Front brakes are perfect. I do have ABS. Second question is: Should I be hearing the ABS pump when I apply the brakes? I do is why I ask this question. Thanks for the willingness to help. Much appreciated. Russ

• Adjustments

1. Apply service brake pedal three times with a force of approximately 175 lbs.



2. Fully apply and release parking brake three times. Full application may require two pedal strokes.



3. Raise and support vehicle, then mark relationship between wheel and axle flange.



4. Check parking brake pedal assembly for full release as follows:

1. Turn ignition switch to On position.



2. If ``Brake\'\' lamp is illuminated, operate manual brake release and pull downward on front parking brake cable to remove slack from pedal assembly.

1. Remove rear wheel and tire assemblies, then install two lug nuts to retain each rotor assembly.



2. If two parking brake levers on both calipers are not against lever stops on caliper housings, check for binding in rear cables and/or loosen cables at adjuster until both left and right levers are against their stops.



3. Tighten parking brake cable at adjuster until either the left or right lever begins to move off the stop, then loosen adjustment until lever moves back barely touching stop.



4. Operate parking brake several times to check adjustments. A firm pedal feel should be obtained by pumping pedal two full strokes and rear wheels should not rotate forward when parking brake is fully applied.



5. Install wheel and tire assemblies, aligning marks made in step 3.

Without knowing which type of e-brake you have (foot pedal or handbrake), just about ever type of e-brake has two places to adjust it, well, that bears explanation. The one actual adjustment will be near the operator, either under the handle on a hand brake, or above the pedal on a pedal brake. You will notice that there is a long threaded rod with two nuts on it, loosen those and turn them down to pull slack out of the cable which runs to the rear wheels,

Now the other item is not so much an adjustment, it may be just wear on the pads or shoes of the brake itself. Some cars will use the regular braking pads/shoes as the same means for the e-brake, while others have pads/shoes committed to just the e-brake.

I would suggest attempting the cable adjustment in the drivers compartment first, as if this does not work you will be needing either a shop or brake mechanic to open the rear brakes.

Excess brake pedal slack is almost always the result of improperly adjusted rear brakes. Get that checked out first, with drum brakes the self adjusters seize up after a while and stop working.

Under the car on the drivers side you will see a threaded rod that goes through a saddle that goes off with two cables to the rear wheels, adjust the cable there using the adjustment nut.

Replace the rear brake pads. The thicker pad will require less pedal movement. The other option is to tighten up the rear brake actuator at the rear hub. Put it up on the center stand and adjust away until you figure it out. Make sure it is in neutral and the rear tire spins freely when the brake is not applied. Push the brake pedal to see how it all works, you'll figure it out.

By design, a disc brake system does keep a slight pressure on the rotor. The pads on a disc brake do not back off like they do on a drum brake. There are no springs to pull the pads back. Additionally, the pads keeping slight pressure on the rotor is what keeps the rotor clean and dry so that you have good brakes even when riding in the rain.

What the problem sounds like to me is either you have air in the brake or your rear brake pedal is not returning to it's top position for some reason.

First, bleed the brakes and make certain there is no air in the system. Depress the pedal and hold it down, open the bleeder valves and let out the air and brake fluid, close the bleeder valve, relaease the brake pedal and wait a minute for the cylinder to recharge with brake fluid. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry and use the proper type of brake fluid. Continue this until you have a full firm brake.

Now, when you let off on your brake pedal, there's a spring that returns the pedal to the top. Make sure this spring is working as it should. It should return the pedal all the way back and hold it firmly in that position. Also there is an adjsutment of the brake rod that goes to master cylinder. It should be adjusted so that it allows the piston in the master cylinder to return fully to the rear position and then have a bit of slack. If it keeps the piston from fully returning, the brakes will drag. If the piston does not return fully as it should, the master cylinder needs rebuilding.

Good Luck
Steve

You cannot adjust the cables on a minivan manually. the tension is automaitcally adjusted by the self adjuster on the pedal release.

The park brake cables on this vehicle have an automatic self adjuster built into the park brake pedal mechanism. When the foot operated park brake pedal is in its released (upward most) position, a clock spring automatically adjusts the park brake cables. The park brake cables are adjusted (tensioned) just enough to remove all the slack from the cables. The automatic adjuster system will not over adjust the cables causing rear brake drag.

Due to the automatic adjust feature of the park brake pedal, adjustment of the parking brake cables on these vehicles relies on proper drum brake.

When the park brake pedal is applied the self adjuster is by-passed and the pedal operates normally to engage the park brakes.

When a service procedure needs to be performed on the park brake pedal or the park brake cables, the automatic self adjuster can be manually locked out by the service technician.

The brake shoes need adjusting. Disengage the parking brake.
Before fitting new shoes you should slack off the parking brake cable completely. Locate the adjuster(just follow the parking brake cable. Undo the locknut and slack off the cable.
Remove the rear wheels and drums again. You will find a screw-in type adjuster between the shoes. Turn the adjuster to increase the distance between the shoes. The left and right wheel's adjusters turn in opposite directions to achieve the same result. Fit the drum to see if it slides over the pads easily. Do so until you start having diffyculty sliding the drum over the shoes. Fit the drum and rotate it. You should not hear any scraping or have any resistance on the drum when it is rotated. Refit the wheels. Test the parking brake. If it is still too slack adjust the cable under the car until you when you engage the parking brake it engages fully after 3-5 clicks.

FIRST adjust rear brake starwheel while spinning tire FOWARD. then alongside drivers side of car find emergency brake cable adjustment (long threaded rod with nut) . hold one end of rod with vise-grips and turn nut until emer. brake cable has less slack in it. now go inside car and apply e-brake.you dont want the pedal to stop right away but u also dont want too much"travel" in the pedal.so about halfway is IDEAL. IMPORTANT- once the brake cable is adjusted and the car wont roll foward in gear with the brake on and applying a little "gas"-make sure with brake OFF that rear wheels turn freely. hope this helps.

hi im dave
hope i can help
when you had the rear pads applied and the discs turned was there noticeable damage to the disc surface it sounds like your e brake cable is not adjusted properly or perhaps the braided wires inside the insulation are seperating along your brake cable causing the rear brakes to not be adjsting themselves properly. Every time the parking brake is applied the rear brakes are self adjusted if they arent being applied due to slack in or a broken cable you will not adjust your rear brakes. This would accont for the flutter in the brake pedal as hydraulic fluid is still circulating to compress the pads against the rotor but the pads arent reaching the rotor.