Do you people think that a valve set is needed every 25,000 kms. sure there is going to be wear and tear in the valve train,but is it that great. this again is on a 06 stratoliner. thanks for your imput steve

I would think running with out it will cause premature wear to the valve train. If you have the missing piece, I suggest biting the bullet and tearing it back down to install it.

If there were no wear, the valves wouldn't need adjusting. The reason for periodically adjusting the valves is to compensate for the wear that the valve train undergoes over the life of the engine. Be optimistic! Have confidence that adjusting the valves will reduce the noisy valves.

Check the electric shift switch relay with a good VOM (meter) if you have the EL model - or the mechanical linkage if you have the usual gas version. Use a large screwdriver to pry the reverse lever manually back and forth. Be sure to block up the vehicle before you mess with the transmission while running the engine. Safety first.

Hopefully, the repair simply involves a case of wear and tear reducing the necessary throw distance of the shift lever.

If not, then the transmission or drive train needs mechanical, professional, inspection repair or replacement.

Driving style is the usual cause, such as riding with foot on clutch pedal, holding the car in place on a hill using the clutch, or more likely, "spirited" driving.

Because it's burning it due to wear and tear (valve seats and piston rings)

You may still have gaskets trying to compress on the engine and if you had the valves and seats ground, they may be still seating in at that mileage. As the valves and seats wear, the valve stem raises up reducing the lash. All Ironhead Sportsters have solid tappets and should be adjusted to zero backlash. It's always best to set the tappets on these engine a bit loose rather than a bit tight. Always adjust the valves (tappets) with the engine absolutely cold. Keep in mind that the valve lash is set at zero with the engine cold. As the engine heats up, the cylinders and heads "grow" upwards introducing lash into the valve train. When it cools and contracts, it again should go back to zero lash but not hold the valves open. Make sure you get the locknut tightened properly.

Good Luck
Steve

Ok, I am about to solve the mistery on the transmission problems with these 2004 and 2005 Nissan Maxima.
I had 2 Maxima's 2004, let's call car A with a bad transmission and good motor, and car B with good transmission and bad motor.
1. I swap engines from car B to car A, after that, car A runned good with not a single issue.
2. Car B was with out and engine and a bad transmission,
3. I found a motor and transmission from a wrecked salvage 2005 Nissan Maxima with only 25,000 miles in it,
4. After the installation of the good engine and transmission on car B, I found a broken solenoid,
lets call the good engine and transmission (SET).
5. Remember car A is fixed, but car B had a bad transmission.
6. After removing the bad transmission from car B, the SET had a broken transmission solenoid called (pressure control valve solenoid) cause by the accident, the transmission valve cover had a small dent, right where the solenoid is, that how it got broke,
7. Since I still had the bad transmission from car B, the solenoid from that transmission were good in shape, so I thought I was lucky enough to swap the solenoid from car B to the SET,
after I did that I was good to go very confident that car B was going to run fine, but it did not.
8. Car B with a 25,000 miles SET end it up doing the exact same problem that it had before with the transmission, it is near impossible that the problem is the wear on the valve body since the SET only has 25,000 miles and I only swap the solenoid. 2 of them to be exact.
8. Now I am in the market to buy just the 2 brand new solenoids and cross my fingers, Nissan for some reason, they dont want to sell the solenoids by them self, you need to get the complete valve body assy. and shops are happy with that idea cause it is more money on the pocket for dealers and shops, so I hope is the solenoids, they are really easy to replace, just by removing the valve body cover and remove 2 bolts, 1 for each solenoid and that's it. I called one guy who owens a shop and I ask him if he sells the solenoids remanufactured and he started yelling cause he is thinking that we are stupids since he had many people asking about these solenoids and he is saying that the problem is the valve body it self, he make me mad because I only asked him for the solenoids not to try to make me buy the new valve body assy. I will follow up after I find the solenoids and replace these on my Maxima just to confirm, any questions e mail me back at [email protected] thanks

Hi.....Daz...... what do you call excessive? Two things........ firstly you must make sure your vehicle is in optimum running condition, so you need to check and renew if required, things like air and fuel filters, plugs, check spark plug hi tension leads, coils and wiring harnesses, timing, injectors , engine management systems....... checking also for fuel leaks around pipes and unions and the tank. If all ok, then you must carry out a controlled fuel consumption check. fill your tank brimm full......note the mileage and drive the vehicle normally, do not make an effort to drive economicly, drive as you would daily for a couple hundred kms, return to tha same garage and same pump, brim the tank and note the mileage and litres filled and do a calculation of how many kms per litre... I think you might be surprised........... bear in mind that the vehicle has done in excess of 150000 k and as the engine gets older will loose some fuel efficciency..... its called wear and tear..... hope this helps.... Happy Christmas.......... Steve Botswana

Change Engine oil once in every 1500 to 2000 kms that will be enough,
But beware of immature wear and tear of chain sprocket, tires, break shoes, and internal engine parts in case of Rash driving.

Check the length of you fuel lines,make sure theyre long enough,check filter inside tank to make sure its clean,if all that checks out you probably need to rebuild the carb. Get the proper rebuild kit you need for the carb and replace the gaskets and diaphrams needle and seat valve ect. I use chemtool carb cleaner,works great. Before rebuild take carb apart needle and seat valve out spray cleaner thoughroly through all holes and blow out with air gun,then install new kit. This should set you back no more than $5.00