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Friend, you have a hydraulic clutch. Nothing to do with transmission oil. Use brake fluid and fill the empty container by removing the cap from the empty container. Fill the container and start pumping the clutch pedal, or go to the clutch slave cylinder on the transmission and open the bleeder at the slave cylinder top while someone pushes the clutch pedal down, close the bleeder then let off the clutch. Do this a few times and the clutch will begin to work. At times it will take a while before the clutch comes all the way back up, but eventually it will. Now, there has to be a reason the clutch master cylinder was empty. A possible leak. Check to see if any fluid loss while in use. You may need to replace the slave cylinder. I've been through this and it's fairly easy to do.
clutch pedals are suposed to go all the way to the floor , you sure you dont mean brake pedal (cus thats bad ! ) clutches should travel all the way to floor and release the "grab" of the engine about 2/3 down , this way they are more smoothly allowing shifting thru the gears and not jerking as you shift thru the gears , if clutch pedal does not start to "grab" the engines power by 2/3 off the floor and fully "grab"its power all the way up(slipping) ,and you have a hydraulic clutch (96's do) then the clutch disk may require replacement or there is a oil leak in the clutch/master/slave cylinder , look for small oil leaks from under car in area of foot pedals
clutches should be replaced as an assembly that includes , disk ,pressure plate, throwout bearing , with engine side clutch plate magnafluxed for heat cracks and any hydraulic oil leaks replaced or repaired
i bet it does shift in to gear, if you start engine in 1st or REV.gear.right.
if you start engine in gear, with clutch depressed, and the car moves
that means clutch failure.
it can be a bad clutch linkage, easy fix.
there are 2 systems. (3 on relics) cable and a hydraulic acuator.
i can never tell what others can do, some cant tie shoe laces others fly to moon..
im laces.
im too lazy no wto look up the linkage on yours.
why not just look.
see clutch master cylinder above pedal on fire wall?
that is hyd. if missing and is cable ? bingo cable system.
cable play never set ever? do so now, called free play.
if cable end moves 1inch its good.
if the slave cylinder dont move it or or the MC is bad. replace both,
both are easy fixed, ask.
.
a stick shift car. good. sounds real bad. that leaking oil might be the tiny hint of far worse.
look for case cracks. or if a hydraulic clutch?
and you cant tell diff from ATF and DOT3 fluides. its just slave bad. time for new slave (clutch) or if fire wall wet with DOT3, the master. ATF is pin (some manuals have ATF other Gear lube) some syn gear lube is clear. (makes things harder,) dot 3 is clear.
so i say fix the clutch and see fluid go dry on garage floor. on my cars I replace both on my jeep , its all in one. but usually one one end is bad the other is close by) saves down time, not cash. its always a choice. see rockauto dot com for good brands, not china non name
Hey Michelle,,
This is something that will have to be looked into.. Sounds like the clutch may not be working.. it won't engage/disengage..(the clutch plates are stuck together - a common thing when older bikes sit for a while!!).. this will require the right side cover to be removed, the clutch cover plate removed, the clutch plates(fiber and metal) to be removed, then cleaned, oiled and everything re-installed in reverse order..with a new side cover gasket..
You MIGHT be able to put the bike in gear.. then try to push it (engine not running) with the clutch lever pulled in and get the clutch plates to break loose (seen this work a couple times)..
You SHOULD be able to push the bike(engine not running) in gear with the clutch lever pulled in!!!
ON OIL LEAKS IVE BEEN A CERTIFIED MECHANIC 40 years plus i have 2 issues to add yo fix ya they would be oil and gas leak issues gas leak can ruin motor my fix dissasemble fuel petcock remoce tiny o ring and spring carefully dril 2 more holes opposite 2 hole allready there dissconect vacum now add xtra t valve with manual cut off gasleak prblem fixed oil leaks if oil leak is persistant by that i mean you just see oil after sitting over nite minimum amount go to a hier i use 20/50 non syn thetic oil but live in so florida so it depends on owners location good luck signed suzuki750 owner
Change the gear oil. If the gear oil is leaking get it fixed as soon as possible. If all the oil has leaked then it may have severely damaged the gear box.
which seems to have solved the problem I had with the bike jumping out of 5th gear.
Now on the not-so-good side.
I now seem to have very high pressure in the crankcase enough to spray oil out of the channel that links the generator (rotor) area with the gearbox and coats the rotor and stator with oil. Its as if the oil isn't being picked up properly or maybe if the oil runs through one of the gearbox shafts - do I have to align the oil feed hole in this with something? This was the one thing that I wasn't certain about when I rebuilt the gearbox.... would this cause the problem?
I can't find any crankcase breathers that could be blocked so I assume the bottom end vents up the channel for the timing chain, and then out the top camshaft cover and the thick black pipe on the top (which is clear). ,Either you have excess blowby or a passage somewhere is blocked.
Leak down test first, then its back to removing covers until you find whats blocked,,,
have the exact same problem - I cannot figure out how to stop the cover from weeping fluid. Mine started when I had the clutch replaced about six months ago. Im dropping my bik in for its two year service in a few weeks and Ill see if I can get it fixed under warranty.
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