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How to change the primary chain on a kawasaki zepher 750 without removing engine ,i am replacing the starter motor clutch and noticed the chain was slack
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Pretty entailed job. Not like a car.
You will need to remove the primary and possibly the clutch basket/ starter ring gear to access an internal fastener holding the starter to the inside of the inner primary.
Will probably need a primary cover gasket and a quart of synthetic (klotz 80-90) primary chain case lube.
While you're in there you should probably check & adjust primary chain tension and the Delrin shoe the chain rides on.
Completely drain the old primary lube, don't mix old with new, the thing only takes 18-22 ozs (so okay, maybe you need 1.3 qts).
Consider the different kW starters available and get the one that best suits your needs (is the motor built? high use? etc...) Terry components makes great components with WARRANTIES!!
Gasket $20-$25, klotz fluid $16-$20.
Starter drive clutch $35 to $100+.
Starter $380- $490 and up
Also jack-shaft assemblies, ring-gears, etc...$50, $80, $$$$$
Finally; if you have a large displacement or built motor you should have compression releases. Use them religiously.
Follow the specific instructions in the Factory Service Manual. Step 1 - Remove the heavy wire from the starter solenoid. Either end will suffice. Step 2 - Remove the chrome cover over the starter. Step 3 - remove the screws that hold the starter motor in place. Step 4 - Lift the starter motor out of the engine. NOTE: removing the carbs may make this step simpler. The "business" end of the starter should come out of the splined starter clutch gear. If you have trouble removing the starter from the clutch gear, you may need to remove the left side stator cover to gain access to the starter clutch and chain. The exploded parts diagram is available HERE Kawasaki Motorcycle Parts 1982 KZ1000 J2 STARTER MOTOR STARTER CLUTCH...
hey bud, i know this might be a bit late but sounds like the starter chain tensioner has failed and the gears have vbeen stripped. dont try to start thebike. take the clutch casing off, and that chain and sprocket assembly infront of u is the offending part. google a guy called andy bennett for a manual chain tensioner. replace thes parts with zzr1100 parts as they are stronger. once youve researched and done all that. take the sump off and give it a bloody good clean. then re-assemble and away u go. u can do all this without taking the engine out the chassis. exhaust off, oil cooler off, radiator off. hope this helps. feel free to cantact me. kiltednutter (facebook)
First disconnect the battery cable. Then you'll have to pull the primary cover off the engine. Find the primary case drain plug underneath the rear of the primary case and remove it to drain the oil. Find the primary chain tensioner underneath the primary cover near the center and loosen the locknut. Turn the screw downwards to loosen the tension on the primary chain. Remove the left foot peg and take the "derby cover" off of the primary cover. Remove the spring and lock nut underneath the derby cover. Remove the bolts around the primary cover. As you gently pull the primary cover away from the engine, turn the clutch adjuster screw under the derby cover in a clockwise direction until the primary cover comes off. Remove the battery cable where it bolts onto the starter motor and the small single wire that plugs to the motor. Just above the clutch assembly there are two bolts. Remove these bolts and the starter will come off the engine. The bolts are different lengths. Make sure you mark which bolt goes where.
If you're having to rock the bike to get the starter to engage, you have a problem in the primary. There is a starter ring gear around the outer clutch drum that is engaged by the starter jackshaft. If the jackshaft is not engageing and not turning the engine, you may have some damage to this ring gear. It could be that your starter clutch in the starter is bad but that would not be effected by rocking the bike but rather just repeated attempts to start the engine. Either way I'd go into the primary for a look around. Disconnect the battery and drain the oil out of the primary through the pipe plug on the bottom of the primary at the very back. Take the floor board off and if necessary, the shifter mechanism. Take all the bolts out around the outer primary cover as well as the inspection cover in the center of the primary cover. With the cover off, you can inspect the starter ring gear and check the clutch for excessive looseness. Also check the starter jackshaft for damage. If find nothing, you may have a starter clutch problem. The starter clutch is inside the starter and the starter must be removed and disassembled to replace it. Adjust the primary chain so that it has 3/4" to 7/8" up and down movement in the middle of the top run of the chain. Adjust by moving the adjuster shoe up or down as necessary.
No, you must remove the outer primary, the clutch assembly, primary chain and adjuster, the compensator sprocket, the starter, the inner primary, the rear wheel and the swing arm to change the final drive belt. It's a major job.
If you remove the starter motor and solenoid. Lubricate the solenoid and dog wheel and reassemble. That should fix your problem. Reinstalling the solenois, can sometimes be a bit fiddly. Take notice when removing it and where any shimms etc go!
First may I say I don't know for sure your bike model that well (In- line 4 cylinder or water cooled twin?) BUT I am very experienced with motorcycles ( I am a qualified motorcycle mechanic & have owned GPZ 550, Z650, ZIR-II ).
For starters Kwasaki have used two different methods of delivering drive from the starter motor to the engine. Gear driven & chain driven. The chain driven type ( like GPZ 900 R ) were equiped with a tensioner. If yours has a tensioner be sure to change it with a new one also.
Both of the styles of drives ( chain & gear ) incorporate what is called a starter clutch mechanism.
This is what allows drive from the starter motor to be applied only when the starter motor is activated & free wheel when the engine runs. It is a one way clutch mechanism.
I am explaining this because a verry common fault on all electric start bikes is the starter clutch. ( except Moto-Guzzi, BMW, Harley which use a car style starter with a sliding pinion ).
When the starter clutch is faulty it displays a very distinct symptom.
When the starter motor is activated, you will hear a "whizz" followed by a crunching noise rather reminicent of a chain jumping teeth on a sprocket.
If this is the case with your bike & is what is what led you to change the chain, plus is what your continueing problem is, I would suggest you check the starter clutch.
The starter clutch comprises of a drive gear(the one that the chian, or startor motor output shaft drives), 3 rollers, three springs with guide pins, & the housing plate for the rollers & springs with guides.
To effectivly repair a starter clutch it is necessary to replace the gear, the 3 rollers, the 3 springs, sometimes the housing plate if it is also worn (from the rollers moveing)
I am hopefull this may shed some light as to the cause of your problem.
If not please post a comment & I'll try to help you further.
Dear Sir. The engine oil flows through the starter clutch which acts as a centrfugal oil filter. Sludge builds up and causes the starter clutch to slip.
It is possible to replace the Benelli 900 starter clutch without having to remove the engine. It requires removing the clutch, then the side casing and gears. The sump needs to be removed...middle exhauster header pipes first. The lh engine cover and oil pump also needs to be removed. The primary drive shaft can then be removed from the RHS of the engine. the primary drive chain and satrer clutch assembly will now drop enough to enable the removal of the sprocket from the starter clutch (it is a bit tight and then the rest of the starter clutch will come out of the chain. Be aware that the oil pump drive connector is on the end of the primary drive shaft and care needs to be exercised. This is possible if due caution and care is taken. Assembly id basically reverse of above. Happy fixing.
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