How many clutch plates and steel plates does 04 rm250 have

After having soaked the friction plates as required first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring
seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm).

u need info at library sec629 motorbooks or review clymer manuals for both--salvage yards have help also for olscoolers

one friction plate and then one steel plate and so on until the stack is built, sand/roughen the steels for best clutch grip.

there should be an adjustment on the clutch handle or cable.

Hi Ma_beveridge,

I guess ,since its 10splines you ought to fit in 5 steel plates ,just make sure that no steel plates come into contact with each other except with the clutch plate in between them.

Hope this will help .

GOOD -LUCK.

Knight

new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off. So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped. The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack. Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,

new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off. So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped. The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack. Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,

new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off. So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped. The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack. Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,

new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off. So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped. The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack. Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,

new procut basket and barnett plates. Had to file the barnett friction plate tangs they all slide but are a tight fit. All plates installed carefully per the Barnett instructions. Started the bike in neutral all fine shifted into 1st clutch in, I feel the bike want to creep forward although just slightly (I can hold it with my feet down). Can't get to neutral again with the clutch in until I shut the bike off. So, just before I go back in and pull a plate out to make the clutch pack smaller, i wondered whether anyone here has had this problem and whether if I ride it like this for a short while whether the clutch pack will settle in and fully disengage?,A too-high overall thickness of the plate stack will cause drag between plates when the clutch is disengaged making it difficult to select neutral when the bike is stopped. The last 2mm steel plate can be interchanged with a 1.5mm curved plate facing away from you if you want to adjust the stack to get the 38mm stack thickness, or if you want a more progressive, soft clutch engagement. A commonly-used substitution that adds an additional spring plate to the stack. Any of the steel 2mm plain plates can be exchanged with 1.5mm plain plates to reduce stack thickness or increase stack thickness as needed to achieve your desired overall height. You will see the need for this as friction plates wear, so keep your steel plates from pervious clutch replacements as spares to be used as height adjustments later. The 2mm and 1.5mm steel plates only need replacing if they’re scored or warped.,,,