How do i tighten up the slack in my clutch lever

Hi Kristin:
If this is happening while you have the clutch lever fully squeezed, it would seem that the clutch is dragging.
It can be adjusted where the cable meets the lever assembly.
If there is any "slack" in the lever, there should be an improvement if you:
- back off the lock nut
- unscrew the adjuster until there is no slack in the lever, and
- tighten the lock nut.
Hope this helps.
Cheers

Because the clutch cable adjuster clearance increases with engine temperature, adjust
the clutch when the engine is cold. If the clutch is adjusted when the engine is hot, insufficient pushrod clearance can cause the clutch to slip.
1. Remove the clutch mechanism inspection cover and
quad ring
2. Remove the clamp and slide the rubber boot off the clutch in-line cable adjuster.
3. Loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the adjuster to provide maximum cable slack.
4. Make sure the clutch cable seats squarely in its perch at the handlebar.
5. At the clutch mechanism, loosen the clutch adjusting screw locknut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise until it is lightly seated.
6. Squeeze the clutch lever three times to verify the clutch balls are seated in the ramp release mechanism located behind the transmission side cover.
7. Back out the adjusting screw counterclockwise 1/2 to 1 turn. Then hold the adjusting screw and tighten the locknut to 72-120 in.-lb.(8-14 N•m).
8. Once again, squeeze the clutch lever to its maximum limit three times to set the clutch ball and ramp release mechanism.
9. Check the free play as follows:
a. At the in-line cable adjuster, turn the adjuster away from the locknut until slack is eliminated at the clutch hand lever.
b. Pull the clutch cable sheath away from the clutch lever, then turn the clutch cable adjuster to obtain the clearance gap
c. When the adjustment is correct, tighten the clutch in-line cable locknut and slide the rubber boot over the cable adjuster.
10. Install the clutch inspection cover quad ring onto the primary chain case cover.
11. Install the clutch inspection cover and tighten the screws to 84-108 in.-lb. (9.5-12 N•m).

are you trying to adjust the lever engagement or is the clutch - slipping ( or dragging )
i thought that this bike has a hydraulic clutch - but if it is cable operated - there will be an adjuster at each end of the cable - loosen the locknut and either tighten or loosen as required - there should be some slack at the lever - about 1/8 inch or 5 degrees of travel - re-tighten the locknut

On your bike it should be right there at the clutch lever. There should be a large round adjuster lock,screwed onto the actual adjuster. If it is too loose,..loosen the large round nut,and screw the small tube portion out (away from lever) untill it leaves a slight amount of play...about 1/8th of and inch, Then re-tighten the large round locknut. If its too tight,..loosen large locknuut,and screw small portion of adjuster in (towards lever) untill the correct slack is in the lever,then tighten the locknut.

take all slack out of cable . take derby cover off loosin lock nut in center if pack tighten addj screw turn in till seats back out 1/2 to 1 turn tighten lock nut . take slack out of cable . hatleytalking.con ...good luck

Good news, you just need adjust the clutch cable..

Always order the part for your model and year when getting parts and make sure it matches in length with the old one. Note how much cable is sticking out of the housing.
Is it 3 1/2 inches or 4 inches or 2 inches. make sure the new one matches.

Put the new cable on with lots of slack.Slack at the adjuster, and slack at the handlebar adjuster
Now pull the lever in, it will be easy because of the slack.let it stay there.
It will stay against the grip.
As you tighten the cable adjustment down by the cover, you'll notice the clutch lever move out.
Once it reaches the top, stop adjusting and pull it in again.
Continue adjusting and pulling the lever until the lever springs back to the top.
You can feel resistence which is the clutches disengaging.
Make sure there is 1/8" free play when the lever springs back.
Now turn the clutch cable adjust on the handlebar outward, which will remove the rest of the slack.
Only leave 2mm slack on the lever.

Now start your bike up and it should work like new.
You want your clutch to disengage within the first 1/2" of pulling the lever in.
This ensures the clutches are definately disengaged by the time you get the lever pulled back to the grip when shifting.

If your clutches are slipping or dragging no matter how you adjust the cable then your clutches may need replaced.
But sounds to me like its just an adjustment.
Hope to be helpful
Big Al

use a T-27 with a small ratchet and use pressure to get the derby cover off the first time. If you try and take any kind of short cut you will have a bad day.

Adjust only when totally cold

When adjusting the clutch, back of the adjusting screw out and then spin back to tighten. You can really feel it when the adjustment screw seats. As soon as you feel that little bit of pressure, stop! Just rotate a half turn back, and you should be right on the money.

The clutch cable will stretch over time, but all you have to do is take up the slack. Just tighten it up until the clutch lever has a nickel's worth of slack in it. If it's too tight the clutch might not fully engage. You do not have to adjust the clutch if you are just taking up slack on the lever.

These tasks take very little time, even for a first timer. Again, don't over think it. Trust me, I know it's easy to do.

Hope this helps.

You need to adjust the clutch cable adjustment for the clutch handle, THEN adjust the clutch itself.

1.First go to the clutch cable. Halfway down the cable is a rubber boot. Pull the rubber boot up the cable, (Or down. Pull it. Do NOT push), until it clears the adjustment. (The adjustment is a hex shaped piece, that is made of two parts. It's called a Barrel)
Use a 9/16 inch open end wrench, and a 1/2 inch open end wrench. Loosen the lock nut until you have around 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch clearance, of slack in the handle.
(Where the clutch lever, touches the clutch lever mount on the handlebars)

2.Now open the derby cover.
(The round cover on the back of your primary cover. Not to insult your intelligence. This -> https://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=02649&store=&catId=&productId=p02649&leafCatId=&mmyId=
<-shows a custom primary inner, and outer cover. The derby cover is the round cover all the way to the right, on this custom primary cover. You can click on the photo to enlarge)

You will then see a single threaded stud, (Adjuster screw), in the middle of the clutch pressure plate.
This adjuster screw has a nut on it, to lock the screw from turning. (Jam nut)
Hold the stud end,(adjuster screw). from turning with a large flat tip screwdriver,
(May have changed to a small square end, that you use an open end wrench on), loosen the jam nut with an open end wrench.

Turn the adjuster screw in, until there is 1/8th inch slack of the clutch lever, to the clutch lever mount.
(The clutch lever mount is the part that attaches to the handlebars. The clutch lever is the part you squeeze in with your hand. The slack is the small space in-between the clutch lever, where it touches the clutch lever mount)

Now turn the adjuster screw out 1/2 turn. Tighten the jam nut. (Make sure you hold the adjuster screw in that place you set, as you tighten the jam nut. DON'T let the adjuster screw turn as you tighten the jam nut!)

3.Now tighten the lock nut, (Jam nut), on the adjustment barrel for the clutch cable. You should grease the threads of this adjustment barrel to prevent corrosion in the future. Pull the rubber boot back into place.

4.Replace the derby cover gasket as these will leak like a sieve. Replacing this gasket is cheap insurance. Install the derby cover, tighten the derby cover screws evenly. (Go to one screw, tighten until it touches. Then go to another screw, and do the same. After all three are touching, snug them down one turn at a time, going from screw to screw)

This is a thin cover. If you don't tighten the screws evenly, you can cause this thin cover to warp, and be the cause of a constant annoying oil drip.

hopefully you soaked your clutch plates in oil before installing them! If so adjustment is performed by loosening the jam nut on your clutch cable and running in the adjuster until you have enough slack to pull the clutch lever to the grip without any resistance. pull your derby cover off your primary cover and in the center of the clutch assembly you will see a threaded hex screw and a jam nut. loosen this jam nut enough to run the hex bolt in. tighten this hex bolt untill it just hits resistance and then back it off one half turn. Tighten the jam nut. reinstall the derby cover and adjust the clutch cable back out untill there is one sixteenth inch slack in it. Operate the clutch lever several times to reset the ramps then ride

follow the bable down from the lever approx 2 feet....right infront of the front cylinder...there is a rubber boot on the cable...pull back the boot to expose the adjuster....it will have a lock nut that you need to loosen...you will need 2 wrenches to do this...once the nut is loose you can make minor adjustments to the cable...remember to leave some slack in the cable....check the slack at the lever...iusually make it just a little under 1/8 of an inch.....if it wont adjust all the slack out, then you will need to adjust the clutch release mechanism under the round cover on the primary....i would suggest picking up a service manual