How do you remove the rear wheel from a venture motorcycle

Remove the saddlebag on the right (throttle or rear brake pedal) side of the bike.I recommend doing it now because the bike is more stable on the sidestand; you will have to exercise considerable caution once it's on a lift, or the rear tire is otherwise elevated. There are two different length screws (three shorter, one long), a spacer, a variety of stand-offs, and a variety of rubber isolators and washers. Remove the parts (two mounts in the floor, two in the back toward the frame) but KEEP TRACK of where the parts come from, and in what order you remove them. (You're gonna hear this a lot, but replacing a part lost or misplaced prior to reassembly, or having to dismantle and reassemble the bike because things don't fit right is a LOT more aggravating).

The rear caliper and brake disk are now exposed. Remove the two hex head bolts holding the caliper to the caliper arm, lift the caliper off the disk, and gently lay the caliper outside the arm. If you've already changed the hoses to the stainless-steel reinforced type, you needn't be too careful; if you're using the hoses the bike came with, take exceptional care not to nick or cut the hose. Examine the axle on that side of the bike, CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY noting the location of spacers and washers; when it's reassembled, you'll have to duplicate what you're looking at right now.

Prior to lifting the bike, loosen (but do not remove) the self-locking nut on the opposite side of the wheel (on the outside of the final drive unit) and the pinch nut at the end of the swingarm on the caliper side. Now, lift the bike, making sure the rear wheel is suspended and unobstructed to both the right and rear. Remove the nut from the side of the final drive and extract the axle shaft. It doesn't want to move? You're left with two choices - grasp the end of the axle shaft outside the swingarm with a pair of Channelocks or some other toothed, clamping device, and twist until it loosens and comes out - OR - remove the other saddlebag and use a 3/8 extension or extensions to tap the axleshaft through. I do not recommend the Channelocks - the scoring of the axleshaft is permanent and UGLY; if you think it looks bad after the shaft is out, wait until the RUST sets in...

With the axleshaft out, the wheel is probably hanging askew between the swingarm and the final drive unit, and there's an assortment of spacers and washers lying on the ground (you DO remember where they were a minute ago, don't you?). Place the loose bits out of harms' way, GENTLY move the wheel toward the swingarm, and it should drop to the ground, and roll out beneath the fender. BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET DEBRIS GET ONTO THE EXPOSED DRIVE SPLINE ON THE FINAL DRIVE, THE MATING SPLINES IN THE WHEEL, OR INTO THE BEARINGS. Those areas are really, really, really difficult to adequately clean after they've been contaminated.

Reassemble in the reverse order, torque specifications for the axle nut - 110 ft.-lbs. (150 nm), for the pinch nut on the swing arm - 17 ft.-lbs (23 nm). Bolts for the caliper should be torqued to 30 ft.-lbs. (40 nm).

It's a good idea to lubricate the drive splines in the rear wheel and the mating shaft in the final drive while the rear wheel is out.