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Oil was gushing out the overflow pipe connected to the top of the engine that is routed to the back of the bike towards the rear wheel. Amature rider that kept it in 1st gear the whole time.What could be the problem? It is a Kazuma Viper 110. The bike isn't listed below, therefore I have chosen randomly.
Does anyone know where I can find a downloadable repair manual for the Kazuma Viper 110?Does anyone know where I can find a downloadable repair manual for the Kazuma Viper 110?
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On page "10", it states, "Slip fuel overflow hose onto fitting on carb bowl and neatly route behind pushrod tubes. On a big twin model, hose should go toward back
of engine. On a Harley-Davidson Sportster model, hose should go toward front of engine. Exit end of overflow hose must extend down
below engine and away from exhaust pipes."
This is the only "vent" hose (actually, a fuel overflow hose) that I know of.
Yes there is a check valve but it's in the oil pump. This is a problem with the pre-2000 Softails. The oil tank is mounted higher in the frame than the oil pump on the engine. When the bike is allowed to sit for an extended period of time, the oil seeps past the check valve ball in the oil pump and settles in the engine cases. We call this "oil sumping". When the engine is restarted, the oil pump scavenger gears simply cannot pump the excess oil back to the oil tank fast enough and it is blown out of the crankcase vent tube. Since the EPA requires that vented crankcase pressure be cycled through the engine to be burned, the crankcase vent tube is connected to the backside of the carburetor backing plate. There are baffles in the tube but they only work for oil mist. The results is that your air filter gets filled with oil when you restart the engine after a lenghty downtime. Most riders will disconnect the tube from the backside of the backing plate and plug the hole in the backing plate. Then they install a simple hose about six inches long or so to the nipple that comes out of the engine cases and run it back towards the rear of bike underneath it. Some guys will put a small crankcase breather on the end of the hose as well. This way, the oil will go on the ground and you can clean it up. I usually slide a shallow pan under the bike before restarting one that has sat for a while. Avoid "topping off the oil tank" before restarting a bike that has sat for a while. Check the oil level and as long as the oil is visible on the dipstick, restart the engine and check the oil level when the engine reaches operating temperature. Harley improved on this problem in 1993 when they went to the "head breathers" where the crankcase vents are located in the cylinder heads.
G'day. We don't get your bike here in Australia but if the pipes your talking about are clear or semi-clear then they will be overflow pipes in case the bike falls over.- these are often the vent for the fuel bowl too. Then they don't connect to anything. You usually rout them down & to the back of the carby & they slot down the back of the engine-commonly between the engine & swingarm pivot.
On your Sportster, leave the bike on the side stand to check your oil. Now there are two marks on the stick. The top mark is "FULL HOT" and the lower mark is "FULL COLD". Do not overfill. As long as the oil is on the stick, start the bike up and allow it to warm up. Once warm, check the oil. NEVER add oil to a cold engine. Why? Because when Harleys are allowed to sit for a while, the oil seeps past the check ball in the oil pump. This allows oil to pool in the crankcase. If a quart of oil seeps past this ball and you check the oil before starting the bike, it'll be a quart low in the tank. But that quart of oil may be in the crankcase. When you start the bike up, the oil pump pumps the oil out of the crankcase and now suddenly, you're a quart overfull. We're talking a big mess now. So, as long as you know you've got oil in the engine, start it up and warm the engine before adding oil.
Tire pressure should be 30 psi in the front tire, 36 psi in the rear with a single rider, 40 psi with two riders.
There are indeed two drains under the bike. One is for the engine oil and one is for the transmission lubricant. Since your bike is basically a Softail, the one your looking for is the one on the frame back towards the rear tire under the pipes. Follow the pipe upwards and see if it goes to the oil tank. This will verify that you have the correct drain. Just loosen the drain plug and let a drop or two of oil come out. It should be black. If it's clear and clean looking, it may be your transmission lube but I'm sure if your bike is a Softail model, this is the drain you're looking for.
The easiest way to check rear wheel alignment on a Dyna is by the two little "witness marks" on the rear swing arm. These two marks are just forward of the axle. One on each side of the swingarm. Measure from the mark back to the center of the axle on each side. The distance should be the same with the proper final drive belt tension.
As for the rear wheel being "centered" with the frame, the only way to check that is to take the fuel tank and rear fender off, stretch a string from the center of the steering head along the frame on back across the rear wheel. Simply looking at the way the wheel is positioned in the swingarm may be deceptive. The swingarm may not be symetrical due to the necessity to clear the final drive pulley and such. The engine alignment shouldn't have anything to do with the rear wheel alignment.
For something as serious as wheel alignment within the frame, I'd take the bike to a dealer somewhere and have them check it out. On some bikes, there is supposed to be an offset betweent he front wheel and the rear wheel. Use a piece of straight piece of square aluminum tubing to check wheel alignment.
I believe you bike is an FXSB. The Dyna Low Rider didn't come out until 1993 best as I can remember. The difference is the rubber engine mounts. The FXR low rider had the small rubber front mount and the Dyna low rider has the large front engine mount.
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