At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Under inflation. When the tire doesn't have enough air pressure, the center tends to be pushed up from the road. Thus causing outer wear on both sides. alignment problems cause wear on one side or the other. Over inflation causes the center of the tire to wear .
The rear differential is probably an open differential, so this is normal. You need a limited slip or a locked differential for them to both turn together.
Your JEEP is only part time 4WHEEL DRIVE as you can't DRIVE on the STREET with it, its NORMAL and nothing is WRONG.
Part-Time and Full-Time 4x4 systems...
A part-time 4x4 system called Commandtrac is in all Wranglers together with low-end Cherokees and Liberties. A part-time 4x4 system locks the front and rear driveshafts together inside the transfer case so they drive the front and rear axles together in lock step. Because they are locked together, the front and rear tires must rotate at the exact same rpms. However, the front tires must rotate faster than the rear tires during any turn so a part-time system fights that... which makes a part-time system inappropriate on a paved road because the high level of traction on a paved road prevents the tires from slipping which would otherwise allow the front and rear tires to grudgingly rotate at different rpms. Offroad this is not a problem since the poor traction of an offroad trail allows the tires to slip as needed. But when they try to slip/rotate at different rpms on a high-traction surface, the entire drivetrain is stressed which is bad for it. This problem is called "wind-up".
In reality however, the front and rear axles really don't even turn exactly the same RPMs when you're in 4wd so you still get "wind-up" if you drove in 4wd on the street even if you drove in a perfectly straight line. Why? Because 1) you can't drive in a perfectly straight line and 2) the front and rear axle ratios are usually .01 different from each other. Like a 3.73 and 3.74, 4.10/4.11, etc.. Why the .01 ratio difference between the front and rear axles? Because the front and rear axles usually have different ring gear diameters which makes it nearly impossible for the gear manufacturers to economically make the front and rear axle ratios exactly the same. And no, they are not made .01 different on purpose to make the front or rear pull more when in 4wd, that is an old wive's tale.
Finally, a full-time 4x4 system like Selectrac is available on Grand Cherokees, Cherokees and Libertys couples the front and rear axles together, but they are not mechanically locked together like they are with a part-time 4wd system. The front-to-rear axle coupling can be done via either a differential like the Selectrac system uses (just just like what is in the center of an "open" axle) or a fluid (viscous) coupler. The benefit to a full-time 4wd system is that because the front and rear axles are not mechanically locked together, the front and rear tires/axles can rotate at different rpms from each other. This allows a vehicle with a full-time 4wd system to drive in 4wd "full time" on a paved road without problem since there is no 'wind-up' problem to harm the drivetrain. You cannot get a full-time 4x4 system in a Wrangler from the factory.
This should help you a fair bit, it's not that big a job.
Instructions below found at: http://motorcycle.justanswer.com/questions/1ayag-remove-rear-wheel --------------------------------- In addition to the obvious of elevating the back of the motorcycle to get the weight off the rear tire, you need to unbolt the final drive from the swing arm and remove the final drive and rear wheel as an assembly. The drive shaft will come out with the final drive, not a problem.
Once you get the assembly off the bike, you can remove the axle then separate the final drive from the rear wheel and do what you needed to do.
When you go to re-install the drive shaft, you have to align the splines. Sometimes it is easier to put the bike in gear so the female splines on the intermediate shaft don't turn as you rotate the rear wheel to insert the drive shaft. When you go to put it back together, just tighten the bolts that hold the final drive to the swing arm evenly in a crossing pattern until tight.
As an aside note, while you have it off, make sure you grease the splines on the end of the drive shaft and the splines for the rear wheel before putting it back together --------------------------------- All the best,plainnash
there is a cap over the end of the axle, it snaps off. with the rear end jacked in the air remove the C-clip which you find under the cap. the wheels will then pull off. make sure you put them back on correctly, there is an inside and an outside. If you reverse it, you will rub a groove in the tire and it will go flat and have to be replaced and they cost more than car tires. And do not pull the wheel off in the lawn or in a gravel driveway. when the wheel comes off a small key will fall to the ground. you will need to re-install this key when you put it back together or the wheels will not move. if you lose the key into the grass or gravel you will have to go to a real hardware store or small engine repair shop to buy another.
Most likely rellted to the rear wheel cylinder. You need to remove the tire, probably replace the brake shoes if they are wet with fluid, wipe down brake drum with carb or brake cleaner, install new wheel cylinder and put everything else back together. Wheel cylinder is available through most auto parts outlets. Probaby less than $15.
I assume you are referring to the caster tire, not the drive tire. You will need to check to see if the rim is a split-rim or a solid rim. A split-rim will have 4 or more bolts holding the two halves of the rim together. If you have flat-free tires i.e., foam-filled solid tires, evidenced by the lack of a valve stem which is used to inflate non-flat-free tires (pneumatic), you would remove the wheel from the caster by rermoving the center bolt acting as the axle. Then remove the bolts holding the rims together. Reposition tire on top of one of the rim halves, then place the other rim half on top so that the bolt holes in the top one line up with the holes in the bottom one. You need to buy a couple of bolts that are about 3/4 in or more longer than the bolts that you removed, as you now must press the two halves back together and the stock bolts probably won't reach through. Put the two longer bolts in opposite of each other in two holes and tighten down. When the rims are pressed together, then put the stock bolts in, remove the two longer ones and replace with stock bolts. Place wheel back on the caster. If you have pneumatic tires (requiring air), make sure to always deflate the tire completely before attempting to loosen the bolts holding the rim-halves together. The same process is used for drive tire replacement. If the rims are not split rims, then it is easiest to buy an entire new wheel and tire as getting it back on is quite a chore requiring a press and lots of tequila! It's easy to break the rims. Good luck.
×